Did anyone else make extra templates?

[tld]

Just as extra practice on the router I started making copies of the templates from MDF board. I found this stuff more unnerving to cut than the acrylic. Two observations - the MDF had a tendancy to catch and jump out. Also instead of chips, it made a fine powder - enough to make me put a mask on 8O

To lesson the amount of powder I was producing, I used the table saw to trim away as much excess board as possible. This seemed to help a little.

I didn't want to use my new acrlyic bit on the MDF board so I bought a different one - this one was a triple flute 1/2" lamininate flush trim bit. It was not an upcut bit - Lowe's didn't have any and I was too impatient to order one. Is this bit causing my difficulties or is a common problem with MDF? I would have guessed that it would be easier to route than acrylic, but I really didn't like it jumping out on me.

Also, it dawned on me that I'm not going to be able to use this 1/2" bit to finish copying the templates. :roll: Would it be okay to use my new acrylic bit to finish up a few holes? I don't want to ruin it.

One final question - that 90 degree angle in the L of the ovoid template is pretty sharp - what size bit do I need to make that? It looks smaller than what a 1/4" bit could cut. (Or do I need to even worry about it - it's not the side used for rounding off corners.)

Thanks,
Teresa

 

[fergy]

MDF makes dust, there is no way around that.

Try not to use your acrylic bit, because the glue in the MDF will dull it in no time. For MDF, you don't need a spiral bit, but a two-flute cutter would have been fine for this use.

For that internal L shape, don't worry about the outside of the curve. Just make sure that the inside corner looks right.

BRIAN
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Mercedes Benz 190

 

[tld]

Thanks Brian,

I'll save my acrylic bits for acrylic only. When I bought the bit for the MDF board I got the triple flute instead of two-flute figuring it would cut faster and it was only a few cents more. Well, it probably does cut faster, but also produces more dust - I'll know better next time.

Is there any way to keep the MDF board from catching and jumping? Go slower?

Teresa

 

[fergy]

MDF should not catch or jump...try to control it better.

BRIAN
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Honda Sabre V4

 

[cybershark]

I made a set of templates out of 1/2" acrylic that I had laying around . I did not use the router . I felt that it would be a good project to try out a cnc mill at my sisters shop. First time ever writing programs . Pretty easy
I used 1/4"and a 3/8" double flute bits. Speed was set at 1400 rpm and the feed rate was around 20" ipm . The cut was very smooth but took for ever. With bit changeing and all on the ovoid peice it took me about 45 min just on that one peice.

 

[ToeCutter]

where can MDF be purchased?

 

[Kabob]

I saw some at Home Depot when I was hunting for Southdown.

Jason

 

[tld]

Both Lowe's and Home Depot have it in my area. A 4'x8' sheet cost ~$17 or they have smaller pieces (something like 2'x3') near the shelving materials for less than $10.

I have not yet finished copying the template for my ovoid piece because I don't have a router bit small enough for the keyholes (other than my acrylic bit). Can anyone point me to an online source for an inexpensive bit?

Teresa

 

[cybershark]

Buy yourself a new bit for acrylic and use the old on on the mdf. That whiteside bit is the cheapest 1/4" flushtrim bit.
Make sure you wear a breathing mask when routing out that mdf the resin/ glue in it will make you sick. Hope this helps

 

[fergy]

It's not the glue that makes you sick as much as the "tropical hardwood" they use to make it. Most of those woods are toxic.

BRIAN
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Health discussion