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Buffing Question
- Thread starter msorenson
- Start date
Hey Brian,
Could you post a close-up pic of what your reactor base looked like after buffing? Do you buff to take the hazy look off the edges that were routed or are you trying to make the seams disappear? it seems like you would need to sand if you are trying to make the seams disappear.
Thanks,
teresa
Could you post a close-up pic of what your reactor base looked like after buffing? Do you buff to take the hazy look off the edges that were routed or are you trying to make the seams disappear? it seems like you would need to sand if you are trying to make the seams disappear.
Thanks,
teresa
Teresa:
It usually depends on several factors. It depends on how smooth the piece was to start, and whether sanding might actually make it worse. Sometimes, it just takes longer to buff it smooth. Looking at the flange I made for this course, I can still see tool marks, even though the piece is shiny. If you want it very smooth, you'll have to sand. But my base looks perfect, even though I didn't sand.
I'll try to take some pics later.
BRIAN
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It usually depends on several factors. It depends on how smooth the piece was to start, and whether sanding might actually make it worse. Sometimes, it just takes longer to buff it smooth. Looking at the flange I made for this course, I can still see tool marks, even though the piece is shiny. If you want it very smooth, you'll have to sand. But my base looks perfect, even though I didn't sand.
I'll try to take some pics later.
BRIAN
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Brian - when I buffed the box (as an example) as shown in the pic in the final lesson, the buffing worked ok on the cut/routed edge, but it hazed the adjacent flat surface of the acrylic. In your pic it doesn't look like you've masked this adjoining flat surface. What's the technique to not haze that surface while buffing the edges? "Working carefully" to avoid the flat surface doesn't seem to be the answer as the buffing wheel is not that sort of precision tool.
Russ
Russ
You can use masking tape, but good-quality plastic buffing compound should not haze this area. If I'm worried about it, I will use a tape resist of some sort. I find that sometimes it looks like it hazed it, but if I clean the piece with some Brillianize or Novus 1 or 2, it clears right up.
BRIAN
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BRIAN
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Mercedes CLK AMG Black Series
Thanks Brian.
I used a "Tripoli" buffing coumpound from Home Depot, that listed "plastics" on the label.
Thinking that might be the problem, I found this compound on the Eastwood site:
Buff Compound Plastic 13 Oz Tube Item No. - 13138
If I use that for buffing, which of their compunds is what you had in mind when you referred to "the final coloring process?"
Russ
I used a "Tripoli" buffing coumpound from Home Depot, that listed "plastics" on the label.
Thinking that might be the problem, I found this compound on the Eastwood site:
Buff Compound Plastic 13 Oz Tube Item No. - 13138
If I use that for buffing, which of their compunds is what you had in mind when you referred to "the final coloring process?"
Russ
That Eastwood compound is good, but expensive. I just get large blocks of it from McMaster Carr.
Tripoli will scratch the hell out of the face. It has a lot of abrasives in it. Ideally, you want a final compound with no abrasive at all, just the wax/tallow.
BRIAN
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Tripoli will scratch the hell out of the face. It has a lot of abrasives in it. Ideally, you want a final compound with no abrasive at all, just the wax/tallow.
BRIAN
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Sorry for all the questions but I not sure I understand yet.
Are you saying that the compund I mentioned from Eastwood, or a similar compound in larger blocks from MC is all I'll need? Or do I then need a final coloring compound that is just wax/tallow.
If I need this second coloring compound, where do I get it? Can't find anything like this at MC, Eastwood, or Ridout.
Russ
Are you saying that the compund I mentioned from Eastwood, or a similar compound in larger blocks from MC is all I'll need? Or do I then need a final coloring compound that is just wax/tallow.
If I need this second coloring compound, where do I get it? Can't find anything like this at MC, Eastwood, or Ridout.
Russ
I'm saying that Tripoli compound is not a primary or secondary coloring compound for plastic. Just get a product made for plastic, and use it. You don't want the harsh abrasives like Tripoli has.
Just get a plastic compound from a regular plastic supplier, not Home Depot.
McMaster-Carr Item#4801A2
Look at page#2482 on that site. Notice that there is a difference between cutting compound, and cut-and-color compound. You want the latter, which is that item number above. Notice that Tripoli is cut only, and is made for non-ferrous metals, not plastic.
BRIAN
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Just get a plastic compound from a regular plastic supplier, not Home Depot.
McMaster-Carr Item#4801A2
Look at page#2482 on that site. Notice that there is a difference between cutting compound, and cut-and-color compound. You want the latter, which is that item number above. Notice that Tripoli is cut only, and is made for non-ferrous metals, not plastic.
BRIAN
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