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Anonymous

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I wanted to water test mine with it sitting in the utility sink. I fed water in from my RO through the fitting in the top (the bubble counter is not connected.) I started with a little water then added more. I wanted to fill it completely, so I could really tell if the top seam and gasket are good. But there is no where for the air inside to escape too. I'll blew this think up if I don't fine a way to alleviate the air pressure.

Any ideas?

BTW, so far just a leak at one of the pvc fittings and one cobra flex that is stretched a little to far. I'll easily fix those, but i want to check the top of this thing before I put it into operation.

Louey
 
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Anonymous

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Why don't you fill it through the bubble counter, since you can connect your RO to it as well?

I don't understand how this would help alieve the air pressure?
 

vmiller

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The air should be forced out through the output tube at the top of the reactor. If you have the reactor configured as a closed system, open up the output until water starts coming out.
 

fergy

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Also, if you fill through the bubble counter, it will have water in it, like it's supposed to.

Vin is correct: the air will be forced out the outlet hole.

BRIAN
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Honda CB1000R
 

vmiller

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Louey,

Today I realized what you are talking about. The pvc fitting in the lid extends through the other side by about 1/2". Once the water gets to this level, there is no place for the air to go. The result is a 1/2" poclet of air at the top of the reactor. I got rid of some of the air by lifting the lid.

Brian,

Since I am using this as a kalk reactor, do I need to get rid of every bit of air? If I need to, I can drill another hole in the lid and put in one of those air pump check valves.

Vin
 

fergy

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No, that air pocket will be helpful in the future, when you want to refill the reactor with kalk. The limited amount of CO2 there will react with the kalk quickly, and a little kalk will precipitate out, but it won't be enough to worry about.

BRIAN
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Honda CL77
 

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