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ReefVan

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:D Hi again,

Thought I'd let you see another DIY Rotating Return Unit design that I've been playing with. :P

This one has all fixed plumbing and use a swivel-action jet nozzle to divert the flow. Got the idea from some jet-boats I'd seen, figured why shouldn't it work in an aquarium with a good high flow pump. :idea:

Will work on the guts more and post pics as the work evolves. This project gathered dust until my reef-buddies wouldn't stop bugging me for one of their own. :roll:

Should cost about $25 U.S to build if you use a surplus motor and got some spare parts laying about, and $50-75 U.S if you go out and buy a retail gear-motor and a few things. Beats paying $200 for a you know what...

Design Details
- Reef-Rat 1.0 sweeps through a full 90° arc
- It has a 1.0" pvc piping configuration with no reducers
- Contained in a versatile Serpac model # 273 electronic enclosure
- The only external moving parts are Jet-nozzle and associated Drive shaft assembly
- There are no O-rings or seals to leak or wear inside the enclosure
- A universal, low profile male threaded adapter is installed on top to accept your desired fitting configuration
- Included is an on/off power switch to stop jet-nozzle in any position for feeding or service
- Any length of Jet-nozzle feed pipe, (vertical pipe) approx 3"-10", can be custom fit to suit your application
- Unit can easily be adapted to acrylic tanks as well as all glass tanks
- Optional use of a 1, 2, or 4 rpm syncronous gear-motor in the drive design allows user defined flexibility

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Frontal view of unit with Jet-Nozzle at 0 degree position

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Side view of unit with Jet-Nozzle at 0 degree position

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Angle view of unit with Jet-Nozzle at 0 degree position

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Side view of unit with Jet-Nozzle at 45 degree position

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Bottom view of unit with Jet-Nozzle at 45 degree position

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Reef-Rat with cousin Sea-Squirrel of RC fame, also my avatar!
 

Fredfish

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Reef-rat and Sea-squirrel. Sounds like an updated version of that famous moose and squirrel duo :lol: :lol:

And what are our favourite super-heros up to this week?

Fred.
 

Robin Goodfellow

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hi.
IMHO, the newer version is better, and more robust. However, the plastic connector that turns the nozzle can be made with a single piece, instead of two separate parts as shown on the pic. Just use a piece of acrylic, for example, and bent it into an "L."

Furthermore, the elbow can be replaced with a "T," enable the mounting of the device to a return directly (instead of only from the top of the tank). This way, the device will be more like an actuator, instead of having water going thru it.
 

ReefVan

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:D Robin,

However, the plastic connector that turns the nozzle can be made with a single piece, instead of two separate parts as shown on the pic. Just use a piece of acrylic, for example, and bent it into an "L."

Although hidden, the block has the Jet-Nozzle upper hinge screw nested underneath it and at the same time this screw prevents that same block from spinning on the single remaining screw at the front.

The acrylic drive rod must also be centered over the hinge point in order to prevent the drive rod from twisting overcenter, and there is no way to insert a screw from inside the nozzle without weakening the drive rod. :cry:

The suggestion does have merit and I may try to re-design it on another later proto-type with your idea in mind. :)

Furthermore, the elbow can be replaced with a "T," enable the mounting of the device to a return directly (instead of only from the top of the tank). This way, the device will be more like an actuator, instead of having water going thru it.

If I do as proposed then there will be nowhere to put mounting brackets under the unit. This unit could be substantially smaller if built in a vertical fashion, but then that nasty room in the light cover pops up. :roll:

Most people will mount this on the tank edge and the tee will be facing a tank wall, where can I connect the pipe / hose then? :?

I don't say your idea doesn't have merit, please add a sketch so we can see exactly what you're looking at. :wink:
 

ReefVan

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:D Hi Ermin,

I've been pretty busy on a twin tower Ca Reactor, a KW Reactor and now an AquaC clone skimmer. Have to learn to finish one project before starting another... :oops:

I've decided to put in a different type of motor in this unit as an experiment. It's a 1 rpm gearmotor made by Hansen Corp, it's a 110vac PM AC, plastic gears that are self-lubricated and the output shaft has a bronze bushing instead of a plastic sleeve.

Will keep you up to date will progress. This motor is rated for high heat environment, gets hot in the box under those MH lights!

I'll use a 1/8" thk aluminum mounting plate for the motor so it acts as a heat-sink for the motor as well. This design worked very well in my Sea-Squirrel as well. You don't want to ventilate this box with salt air. :wink:

Van 8)
 

ReefVan

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:D O.K Ermin,

You made me feel guilty so I finished up this project to 99.9%. The only thing left is to get a better linkage at a RC hobby shop and run it in the test bin for a few weeks.

Pics just for you and all the other DIY maniacs on RDO.

Finished Unit - Side
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Finished Unit - Frontal
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Drive Mechanism - 1
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Drive Mechanism - 2
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Drive Mechanism -3
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Enjoy

Van 8)
 

Cresta

Experienced Reefer
Location
Los Angeles
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ReefVan,

Wooo!!!! Finally we all get a glimpse of the internal mechanisms of the ReefRat. I'm sure some of the un-imaginative DIYer like myself wouldn't mind finding out how to make the acrylic rod linkage that actually turns the nozzle.....hehe :wink: Ok, ok, now I'm pushing it....haha...
 

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