Veneer and the DIY Stand/Canopy?

[sschafer]

Hi all,

A while ago (longer than I would like to admit) I purchased some very nice Pommele Bubinga veneer to use on a project for my AV system. Anyway, I recently attended a veneering workshop that stoked my ambitions and I was thinking of using the afore mentioned veneer on a stand and canopy for my 120. I was planning on using Cherry Plywood, but I think the Bubinga would just look outstanding. It has a nice mixture of hard and sap wood so there are some very nice color patterns foor book matching.

The tank is already up and running, I just need to add the sides to the stand. The canopy on it now was just built out of plywood as a concept piece, so it will be completely replaced. The tank is plumbed to the basement so there is little to no humidity in the stand. I have not decided on what material to use on the inside of the canopy, but none of the wood will be exposed. How do you think the veneer will hold up. I am worried about separation due to both humidity and heat in the canopy, but then again isn't Cherry Plywood just plywood with Cherry veneer on the face? I am hoping to build a vacuum press to insure the best bond between the plywood and veneer.

All comments, questions, etc. are greatly appreciated. Any links I should check out?

Thanks for your help,

Steve

 

[LongIslandReefer1]

I would use the veneer on the stand. On the many stands and hoods that I have built, most have been veneered. I use Wilsonart 801 contact cement to laminate all my veneers. I then seal and top coat with M.L. Campbell Magnalac laquer.
I do not use a vacuum press, I recommened applying the laminate then pressing it out with a J roller or wooden block.
The use of cherry plywood would be fine as well, finishing it in the same manner.
Hope this helps.

 

[Anonymous]

And to add. IF you're going to veneer the face, you can use a/c ply instead of cherry. Why pay the extra for veneer if you're going to cover it! (you probably already thougt of that though...)
Unless you have an amazing amout of free cherry 3/4" ply around. Then you should call me and I will relieve you of some of it!

Brett

 

[LongIslandReefer1]

I use 3/4 Luan plywood for my projects. It's light weight, water resistant and reasonably priced.

 

[lordofpugs]

I am a cabinet maker and think that this will work. Be sure to get out all of the air bubbles using a laminate roller. Air traped under the veneer is going to be your problem. Sometimes a heat gun can fix your mistakes but it is best to get it right the first time. I work on airplane interiors so what we build has to hold up under differant pressures. A small air bubble on the ground is a big air bubble in the sky. Will you be spraying on your glue? Get a good even coat on both sides but not too thick. As long as you are not spilling water directly on the surface of the veneer you shouldn't have any problems. Remember that people put veneer on yachts. Yes, it has about a ten year limit if you don't take care of it. You may even be able to find glue that is for boats that has to stand up aginst salt water.

James

 

[Len]

LongIslandReefer and James,