• Why not take a moment to introduce yourself to our members?

mattboy

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Yep, my eheim pump finally arrived. In case anyone is waiting, I can tell you that the 3/8" close nipple to 3/8X1/2 bushing is not exactly the way to deal with this pump. In the inlet side, the 3/8 nipple fits, but you'll never get the bushing on it with the "screen" or whatever it is on the pump in place. On the output side, you need a 1/4" close nipple (or something smaller that 3/8") then the bushing. i was really p.o'd when I learned this, having driven all over town to find the 3/8" nipples. Then, I saw that you can simply screw the 3/8X1/2 bushing on to a threaded part on the hose barb. You have to trim the hex part of the bushing. I used the router table and the flush trim bit, screwing the bushing into a 1/2" PVC coupler so I'd have something to hold.

Okay, so now the pump is ready. Here's how I plumbed to save space.

I put the pump to the left of the reactor, not right. The reactor out goes to a thread X slip elbow, the elbow to a slip tee (with threaded side; that replaces the threaded tee we used for the input from bubble counter), then another slip/threaded elbow, straight into the union and pump input. Basically, it's a straight hard plumbed shot to the pump. Then on the in on the reactor, I used a thread X thread elbow, pointing up, and screwed the cobraflex into that. It takes out a lot of the bend in the cobra flex and keeps the plumbing nice and tight to the reactor, which was important to me with limited space.

As you might guess, you can't screw elbows into our in/out on this reactor unless you make the base much smaller; it can't extend out beyond the edge of the in/out threads on the reactor. This is what I did, ending up with a base that's about 8X12.

This leads to the homework for the final lesson; an innovation. For my next reactor based on this design, I would put some more space between the in and out; i had to trim the threaded elbow for reactor input to get it on once the out plumbing was attached. Actually, putting the in and out on separate sides might work, as might the reactor input on the base top. Anything to keep the plumbing to a bare minimum; the ideal scenario is to place the i/o so that you can basically plug the pump in with the fewest bends and length of plumbing. I also think the cobraflex is not up to the standard of the rest of the reactor; this thing is built to last, and the plumbing ideally should be as well.

How have you others dealt with the pump plumbing? And, how are these aquamedic regulators ( I bought one) working out for those folks who've had their reactors up and running for a while?

Matt
 

reefdiver2

Active Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hi Matt!

What you did sounds great but would it be possible for you to post a picture of this set up? Also, why do we need the Aquamedic Regulator? Or do we?

On another note, I am still waiting for my pump, C02 tank, regulator, etc... so, I have not even hooked this reactor up yet! I still would like to know exactly how this thing works? What gets hooked to what, etc... flow of water, etc... I am not using this as a kalk reactor BTW.

I would assume that water from the tank (sump) is channeled to the reactor then slowly dripped back into the tank? Is this correct? Finally, does anyone know where we can get the C02 tanks filled??

Thanks,

Steve
 

hfmann

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hey Matt,

Much thanks for the info on the Eheim pump. I'm still waiting for my "hardware" to show up. Inland said they'd ship yesterday, so it'll be next week before I've got a chance to walk through your recommendations.

If possible to post a picture of the configuration you're talking about, that'd be a HUGE help.

Thanks.
Hal
 

mattboy

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hal;

Maybe I can borrow a digital camera to get a few shots. As far as the eheim pump goes, I can tell you for sure that all you need is 3/8"X1/2" PVC bushings, and then you'll have to trim the hex part off the one you're using on the pump input. Just remove the threaded collar on the the eheim hose barbs, and screw the bushings on in their place. The barbs stay in place. Then you can attach union or coupler to plumb the thing.

HTH
Matt
 

hfmann

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thanks Matt,

Thank you. I think it'll make a lot more sense to this "engineering impaired" individual once I get the pump in hands.

Take care,
Hal
 

hfmann

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Ok Matt,

I finally got my pump. Now I see some of what you're talking about. Off to Home Depot to get the right size nipples, bushings, etc.

How did you attach your pump to the base?

Hal
 

mattboy

Experienced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hal;

I doubt you'll be able to find the 3/8-1/2" bushing at H.D. I needed to go to an irrigation (lawn sprinkler, hot tub) supply place. Good luck.

I did not attach the pump to the base. Because the pump input was hard plumbed to the reactor out, the pump just sits there fine. Probably the easiest thing to do if you must attach it is nylon bolts. Let's say the nylon bolts extend out of the bottom of the base; you could deal with that by attaching some rubber feet to the base. Maybe folks have countersunk the bottom of the base. Come to think of it, I would probably try some left over two sided tape. Brian might not like that one, though!

Remember you'll have to trim off the hex part of the bushing that you'll put on the pump input. I did that with the flush trim bit. First I screwed the bushing into a 1/2" female coupler, just to have something to hold onto. Then, I carefully trimmed away the hex part, so the bushing could easily screw over the barb, and go inside of the covering on the pump.

HTH

Matt

Matt
 

hfmann

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
You're right. HD certainly didn't have it and I've tried a whole bunch of local sources including commerical hose and fitting shops. Having read your response, I quickly called my underground sprinkler company and they don't carry it. The only place I did find it had a $50 minimum order! So I'm stuck right now.

On the pump attachment, I think I'll drill out part of the sliding bracket to accept a 1/4" bolt, then do as you say by threading those into the base. Thanks for the help.

Hal
 

hfmann

Advanced Reefer
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Believe it or not, that was my next source, I did get some other fittings from them ...but dang, I only need two of the little buggers and by the time you add shipping....but what the heck, I've already got about $7,000 into this gizmo. :lol:

Don't make me reduce your grade for not reading.
:lol: Yeh, when DO we get those report cards. My better half isn't letting me spend any more money on tools until she see's I've got a good grade. :lol:

Last night I did the final gluing (unless I need some #40 repair work). And tonight I decided to use an old LG pump instead. Now, I've got to paint over the rust parts. By the weekend, I'll be water testing waiting for my CO2 tank and flowmeter to arrive.

Take care,
Hal
 

Sponsor Reefs

We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.

Click here to sponsor $10:


Top