So, Which Flow Meter Do We Buy??

[reefdiver2]

Hi All,

Went to the WWW. DWYER-INST.COM site that Brian recommended in order to purchase the Flow Meter and found that there are 45 listed! So, which one do we buy? And, is this really a necessary item? Will it make the reactor function any better or differently?

Anyway, just thought that I'd ask. BTW, Brian I did read through the last lecture material and am still foggy on exactly how to hook up this reactor?

Any additional help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Steve

 

[fergy]

You want the RM-151-SSV flowmeter, I think. I think I mentioned that one in the course, as well. It's one of two that measure in CC/min.

Basically, you want to hook up the reactor to a feed from your main tank return pump. You want a trickle coming out of the outlet hose, which is the hose coming from the lid of the reactor, to your sump. The water input goes into the bubble counter. CO2 hooks into the bottom of the bubble counter. Once you get it this far, don't turn on the CO2, but let the reactor run for an hour or so, to work all the air out. Then I'll help you to tweak it from that point.



BRIAN
_________________
Speedball

 

[reefdiver2]

Hi Brian!

You originally said to look for the RMA-151-ssv flow meter, BUT there is no model # like that to be found on that site, unless you have a different link for me to go to??

OK, so let me get this straight. The Little Giant pump just "circulates" the water within the reactor. The water coming into the reactor from the tank is regulated to "slowly" flow into the reactor. The CO2 trickles into the bottom of the bubble counter and then down to the circulating water flow via the Little Giant pump. Now, water back to the tank is also regulated to a "drip" rate (ml/min flow rate). So, when the reactor pH is at 6.5-6.7, that means that CaCO3 is being produced and what comes out of the top of the reactor back to the tank is just that, acidic effluent with a high Ca++ level. So, won't that mean that eventually the tank water will become acidic as well? And if not, what prevents this from happening? I guess that's where it becomes confusing for me? What keeps the alkalinity high? I usually never have to check my ALK, so, how do you recommend that we do this? Those test kits for that are usually way off! The pH in my tank, measured with a pH meter, stays between 8.25 to 8.4 and never really varies much. My tank has been set up for 3 1/2 years now! I guess that I am afraid that this reactor will screw up a good thing, if you know what I mean? Anyway, just my thoughts on this.

BTW, where can I find the "coarse" sponge filters that you use? I have looked on a number of sites and can't find them. You can get the smaller ones made for smaller filters, but that's not what I want. So, what do you suggest? Where do you get yours?

Thanks,

Steve

 

[fergy]

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/htdocs/FLOW/qsrm.cfm

-ssv denotes a stainless steel valve on the unit.

You seem to understand quite well how the reactor works...so not only is the water your sending back to the system very high in Ca, it's also very high in alkalinity, in the form of CaCO3. The low pH within the reactor keeps it that way.

Your tank won't drop in pH very far unless you are adding too much effluent back to the system. Once the Ca and CaCO3 enter the system, they diffuse, and do their job on the tank water, as the excess carbonic acid is dilluted and absorbed into the system water. You system won't become pH suppressed unless you are adding too much from the reactor. You'll probably see your tank pH decrease a little at first, to about 8.1-8.2, but it will stabilize quickly. You might even see the Ca on your tank decrease slightly, but alkalinity will increase, and this form is generally more useful for the corals anyway.

For this project, I used a sponge filter insert available at PetSmart. For my normal reactors, I use bulk black foam that I buy from my local plastic supplier, which he uses when he manufactures sumps. You should be able to order the one we used in the course from TFP or similar, if you are having trouble finding it locally.

BRIAN
_________________
full melt hash

 

[reefdiver2]

Thanks Brian:

Found the flowmeter BUT is it really necessary and do you recommend that I get it? Will it make this an easier operational Ca++ reactor? If so, I would definitely purchase it.

Maybe I missed something, but what is "TFP"? Can you give me the link? I could not locate it in your notes?? Finally, how MUCH ARM do we put in the reactor chamber? Fill it 1/2 way, 3/4, 7/8 or what?? Also, how long will the media last before we have to change it? I don't think that was covered at all. In other words, how do you know when there is no CaCO3 being produced?? Seems like this should last a while but since I've never used one, I don't know??

Again, thanks for your help!

Steve

 

[fergy]

TFP: That Fish Place... http://www.thatfishplace.com

I fill up the reactors about 3/4. It will keep dissolving until there is nothing left, so don't worry that it will stop being effective. However, I tend to fill mine every couple of months. It all depends on how much your tank uses.

The flowmeter is for controlling CO2. You can use a needlevalve, if one came with your regulator, but the flowmeters are far more accurate, and allow you to make sure you're adding a specific amount of gas, instead of simply counting bubbles. See the following:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/ ... /short.htm

BRIAN
_________________
blue moonshine photos

 

[reefdiver2]

Thanks Brian, I was able to find the coarse sponge filters at "TFP" but had to call them. Winds up that you have to buy a "Pond type filter" as this is the only size that was big enough to be cut to size. I will let you know how they work out when I get them. I also ordered the Flow Meter and may have more questions on hooking it up when it gets here as well.

I am still a little confused about the reactor? How do you keep the input from the tank in "sync" with the outflow from the top of the reactor? Seems like they would have to be the same or you would get too much input of water (not good) or too much output and subsequently a lowering of the water level inside the reactor. Maybe I am making this too complicated but I am still trying to get a handle on this prior to hooking this thing up. In fact, how does the water exit out of the top of the reactor?Is there pressure built up in the system to push the water out the top? It still seems like the input flow rate & the output flow rate would have to be the SAME? Or am I not understanding how this thing works?? Finally, would it be a good idea to put a ball valve between the motor and the input to the reactor in order to be able to slow down the water flow? Or, do you just let it run at full speed? The Little Giant 2 pump that I purchased pushes 675 Gal/hr I believe.

I am sure that I will have more questions! I guess that everyone else that took the course must have understood this fairly well?

Thanks Again,

Steve

 

[fergy]

The input to the reactor and the output from the reactor are the same. The reactor is sealed, so you get out what you put in. I'm actually confused as to where you're confused...the outlet of the reactor is on the top, so the water level won't drop at all. Did you put the fitting into the lid of the reactor? And to that fitting, you are supposed to attach a 1/4" hose that goes back to the sump.

You don't need a valve on the circulation pump...the media will slow it down. You want the reactor stirring itself continuously.

Don't worry about being confused, once it's running, it will make sense.

BRIAN
_________________
Mercedes CLK Class

 

[mattboy]

Steve;

For the filter, get a fluval 303 filter sponge. You can cut it in half with a bread knife as Brian suggests in the last lesson. The fluval sponge fits perfect, and seems to be just the right type of sponge for this. Brian; have you seen these?

Matt

 

[fergy]

Yes, but the PetSmart I visited didn't have Fluval, so I had to improvise. I think I've used these in the past, but couldn't remember which it was.

BRIAN
_________________
ak47 seeds

 

[reefdiver2]

Thanks Matt!

I wondered if there was another filter that would work? Problem is that there is no size given when you look up those filters that are premade for a certain filter canister, so, you don't know if it is 4"x4" or 6"x4", etc... Therefore, it's hard to know which one to order? Now I know!

Brian, another question? Where do we get the round cylinders that we used for the reactor? What specifically do we ask for? I know it's Acrylic but what type and do we just have it cut to 28" or whatever?

Hopefully, all of my parts ect.. will be here by end of the week and I can get serious about hooking this thing up! BTW, can I use a small pump like a "Mini Jet" that pushes about 106 Gal/hr to go from my sump to the input of the reactor? This would be easier than trying to tee off of my existing line flow. Also, where do we get those little shut off valves to use for the input & output flow adjustments?

Thanks again,

Steve

 

[fergy]

You can try a minijet or maxijet to feed the reactor. It's not very high pressure, so you can probably just regulate flow by putting one of those cheapo green airline valves on the outlet in the sump. Just be aware that it will probably clog with calcium over time, so you'll need to clean it sometime.

Acrylic tube is usually purchased in 5' lengths, though some manufacturers make 6'. I purchase mine from McMaster-Carr, in those lengths, and then cut it to size. If you want it precut, you're going to have to call around and try to track some down from local sources. I've never had great luck doing that, so I wind up cutting my own.

BRIAN
_________________
Hispanic / Latino Forum

 

[drmartinmartin]

[/quote]You don't need a valve on the circulation pump...the media will slow it down. You want the reactor stirring itself continuously
So are you saying that the media is allways on the move? Mine is not.I have a mag 7 feeding it.it also my sump return pump. The media never moves,I have it 3/4 full. Would it work better to feed it off my rl 20 off my skimmer?

 

[fergy]

Did you see the picture of the finished reactor? I'm really confused on what you're saying, because it doesn't sound like your reactor is correct. It should have a dedicated pump on it to recirculate the water in it. The media shouldn't be moving. It will just dissolve over time due to the low pH. Then, in addition to the recirculating pump, you should also have a very slow water feed to it from the sump, and then the water should exit the top of the reactor and go back to the sump.

I don't understand how you have a pump recirculating the reactor and acting as the return for the tank. The reactor pump should be dedicated. All it is meant to do is circulate water within the reactor, nothing more.

BRIAN
_________________
BMW R27

 

[drmartinmartin]

Yes I have a L.J pump for the reactor, I am feeding the reactor with a mag 7. I have about 50ml a min in to the sump with a PH 6.7-6.5.
You have said a couple of times that,

You want the reactor stirring itself continuously

.
To me that means the media is in continuous movement in the reactor, and I don't have enough feed PSI to the reactor to get the media stirring around like in a whril wind. 8O Sorry just didn't understand that and want to make sure it is working right.

 

[fergy]

Ah, it sounds like your reactor is running about perfectly. Keep an eye on tank pH.

No, you don't want the media itself moving. I meant that the water within the reactor should be mixed well. If you fluidise the media, it tends to cloud your tank. FWIW, you can set up your reactor so that the media is swirling, but you need to run your flow the opposite direction. Some people tend to run reactors this way, I don't because I tend to have a lot of flow through them, and it clouds my tank.

BRIAN
_________________
Honda CB250RS

 

[reefdiver2]

Brian, I received the flow meter today. Now, how do I hook it up? The input & outupt are threaded, as you know, so what exactly do I buy in order to run the tubing to and from it to the bottom of the bubble counter? I assume that it still gets hooked to the bubble counter, is that correct? Also, where do you set the "flow rate"? Looks like a very interesting instrument indeed.

Finally, where do I get the CO2 canister filled? Where in the Yellow Pages can we look in order to find a filling station or whatever??

OOPs, another question? How do we hook up the tubing to the John Guest fittings? And do we need those holding clips to be in place? What size clips do we purchase and where can we get them? What type & where do we purchase the little flow rate switches for the input & output flows to and from the sump?

Thanks,

Steve

 

[fergy]

Okay, the flowmeter needs to connect directly to the regulator. Basically, you need to use a 1/8" nipple, which is easiest to get in brass at home depot or similar. Depending on what your regulator is threaded with, you might need to adapt that nipple to 1/4" on the end that attaches to the regulator. You connect the bottom port of the flowmeter to the regulator. The top outlet on the flowmeter will need a fitting to attach to the hose that goes to the bottom of the bubble counter. I would suggest a John Guest fitting here as well.

1/4" polyethylene hose simply pushes into the john guest fitting. To remove the hose, you push it toward the connector, then push the locking ring in the same direction you are pushing the hose. While holding the ring, you then pull the hose out of the fitting.

CO2 tanks are most-often filled at welding supply stores. Look in the phone book under that, or compressed gas.

You don't need those locking clips. Louey is just anal ;-)

You can use any small valve to control the flow to the reactor. I use a 1/4" ballvalve from McMaster-Carr, simply because it's the easiest for me. I use that for the coarse adjustment. On the outlet, I'd suggest using those super-cheap green airline valves that are available at about every cheap aquarium store. That valve is for the fine adjustment.

BRIAN
_________________
Ferrari FXX

 

[Anonymous]

You don't need those locking clips. Louey is just anal

8O















Truer words have never been spoken. :wink:

Louey

 

[reefdiver2]

Thanks again Brian!

This is finally starting to make more sense! I am still awaiting the arrival of my pump! I will let you know how things work out after I finally hook this monster up!

Steve

P.S. Louey, your set up looks terrific! Anal or not! LOL