Tools for cutting acrylic?
- Thread starter aliendomain
- Start date
aliendomain":1z6pm8q7 said:
Table saws, the more powerful, bigger, and heavier the better, use TCP blades. I personally prefer Powermatic (model 66 IIRC) table saws though Jet and Delta make good ones as well.
Routers, I use only Porter Cable, but most will be okay. Again the more powerful, bigger, and heavier the better. Stay away from speed controlled routers if at all possible. I would strongly advise building a sturdy router table - again bigger, heavier, is usually better.
Generally speaking, the heavier the tool - the more stable (read smoother) it will be.
Much of this depends on exactly what you plan on cutting, if it's just tube and some 1/4" stock then contractor style (1 1/2hp or so) saws are fine. You can commonly find them in the classified section of the paper for a coupla hundred bux. If you wish to cut heavier stock (3/4" +) then I'd advise going to a "professional" duty (3hp - 5+hp) saw. Similar with routers, if just doing 1/4" acrylic, then a 1 1/2hp router will work, if heavier material is being used, then a 2 1/2 -3 1/4hp is recommended. Use the sharpest tooling available for routers: Bosch, Whiteside, Onsrud, CMT, all make good router bits and there are others as well. Generally, you get what you pay for insofar as router bits go. You'll develop preferences over time.
I think these are about the most important tools you really need for cutting/working acrylic sheet & tube. Lathes and mills are handy but not all that necessary for most projects. And then the standard sanders, hand drills, etc... which you can pick up at Lowes for $30 or so.
Do you have a budget in mind? as some of the better table saws start at around $1300+ and a good router can easily cost $250 and up. Decent router bits start at about $15 and can easily go in excess of $80-90, and good saw blades start at around $100 +/-.
HTH,
James
Chris_Reef said:Acrylics - Just curious why you don't like variable speed routers. Can you explain why?[/quote}
Sure, three reasons: The first being it's one more thing that can go wrong, and yes I have had the wiring for the variable speed come apart inside the router. The second being (IMO) it's useless, what you're after is cutting speed whether you're routing 1/8" or 2" acrylic, extruded or cast. If you cut with a consistent feed rate you're not going to burn the acrylic by using the highest possible speed. If it does start melting, then either your bits are dull or just increase the feed rate. I recommend large diameter (1 - 1 1/2" dia) cutters as well - for the cutting speed and chip clearance. Larger diameter means bigger circumference at the same spindle speed means faster cut speed. The third reason is price, while I'm not cheap about tools by any means - to spend the extra $30 for a feature which I'll never use and thus can only be a liability doesn't seem like a worthwhile investment.
I do have a couple of routers with variable speed and I'm not unhappy with them, I keep them at the high speed and just use them (I needed routers one day and couldn't find PC 7519 motors so bought the variable).
I just seems to me that to lower the speed is pointless and they charge more for them, and it's one more thing that *can* go bad so I try to avoid them. If that's all you've got, no worries - they will work fine, just that if you're going out to buy one *for acrylic* don't bother with the VS.
If you're doing wood or other materials with the same router that might require lower cut speeds then that is a different issue.
I am open to different thoughts though, and opinions will vary
James
I do agree with this, but for a novice like myself and the others here wouldn't you recommend a more easily handled bit? Say a 1/4" spiral upcut flush trim? Plus, when dealing with specialty bits such as acrylic these bits are carbide and the larger the extremely more expensive.
This was explained to me in the MACO course here that I was in. These bits that I have used cut 3/8" and 1/2" acrylic very smooth with no chip out without a problem. But, I haven't and don't plan on cutting 1 1/2" or 2" acrylic sheeting anytime soon. If I did then I would most definately look into a larger diameter bit.
Modo":19gd2nnk said:
1/4" spiral upcuts are extremely convenient for small intricate cutouts like the keyhole slots in your skimmer flanges - no question about that. But they do tend to chatter more, as the cutter length/diameter ratio increases - so does the tendency to chatter. For bulk routing on a router table, I recommend the fatter cutters - not that the 1/4" cutters won't work as if you only bought one cutter to do these projects - the 1/4" would be the primary one.
Insofar as handling by the novice goes, if it's in a sturdy router table - it shouldn't matter so much. Saftey does become more of a factor though as the bigger cutters remove meat faster. If you are using these cutters in a handheld router then yes you are quite correct, the smaller cutters are much easier to handle.
Modo":19gd2nnk said:
True enough but it can depend on brand and where you buy it. The best 1/4" flush cutters such as Onsrud or Whiteside will run around $35-40 while the 1 1/2" cutters run just a few bux more and can be sharpened numerous times as the actual diameter is not that critical for bulk routing. Of course you will still be buying multiple cutters so the overall cost does increase in the short run, but if you plan on doing much of this you may wish to make more of an investment in tooling as you'll be paying $8 to resharpen rather than $40 for new cutters.
Modo":19gd2nnk said:
If you are having good results, then I don't have a problem at all.
Just that I use flush cutters only for flush cutting as the ones I buy are $90 solid carbide cutters and I want to save them for flush cutting only and use cheaper, resharpenable cutters for the bulk routing. This (IMHO) is the "best" route to take. And again, not that I recommend against the use of the 1/4" cutters, but given the choice - I'd have several for doing these jobs though the cost does go up. Who knows - you get enough of these things, you can go into business
HTH,
James
I gotchya!
Most of the jobs I'm doing are small. I purchase my acrylic already cut from a local shop here. It's really not that much more for them to cut it. Then I just use my router to cut to the templates or trim edges, etc..
To get back to the original question, I have not cut any tube yet. I usually purchase at the lengths I need. But, Brian (Fergy) that put on the class showed a really cool "jig" that he created on his table saw.
It was more or less an open top box that would hold the tube and he could raise the blade into it. Then he was able to rotate the tube without it moving side to side. It was a really slick setup and simple. He had it were he could adjust the "sides" of the box so he could cut different lengths of tube.
Most of the jobs I'm doing are small. I purchase my acrylic already cut from a local shop here. It's really not that much more for them to cut it. Then I just use my router to cut to the templates or trim edges, etc..
To get back to the original question, I have not cut any tube yet. I usually purchase at the lengths I need. But, Brian (Fergy) that put on the class showed a really cool "jig" that he created on his table saw.
It was more or less an open top box that would hold the tube and he could raise the blade into it. Then he was able to rotate the tube without it moving side to side. It was a really slick setup and simple. He had it were he could adjust the "sides" of the box so he could cut different lengths of tube.
Modo":20mgs4le said:
Modo":20mgs4le said:
Yep, we make our own as well. I call it a platter, others will have their own names for them.. Just a platter that has rails on it that slides through the table saw that you can set a stop on, usually with a front, sometimes with a back fance on them for clamping parts. You can use these to cut tube or make square cross cuts on a table saw rather than use a mitre gauge. You can also buy these commercially at some of your hobbyist woodworking shops.
When you get real trick you can make jigs to route the ends of the tube as well, much better glue joints than saw cuts and much faster than sanding as well as the capability of doing much larger dia. tubes and formed pieces.
James
That would be awesome! No more lap sanding for me!
Seriously tough, I have heard of guys prepping tubes like this as well as using a router set up on it's side. I think in a large production type setting this would work very well. But, for me a couple of sheets of sandpaper and about 10-20 minutes per tube doesn't kill me. But, if I were going to be making 10+ skimmers at one time I would definately try and set something up like that.
Do you have any pics of your setup?
What all do you fabricate? I would be seriously interested in checking out some of your goods.
-Kurt
Modo":1px2zpg9 said:
Still on video, I'll have to get stills from it. I was going to give Brian (Fergy) a couple, just haven't gotten around to it yet. I'm working on putting up a web site withing the next coupla weeks, should have pics by then.
Modo":1px2zpg9 said:
Aquariums (mostly jelly tanks for public aquariums & the like but a few others as well), museum exhibits, and some assorted lab/medical stuff.
James
Modo":3saf367a said:
I will take the course but will not be an instructor nor anything of the sort. Brian is much more expert at skimmers tha I, and I simply don't know enough about Beckett skimmer design to really add anything relevant - which is why I'm taking the course
James
We'll be chatting then. Hopefully Brian will be getting some acrylic sometime soon and get us our packages. Well, you probably have all your sheeting already. :wink:
Is there a less expensives brand of 10" saw blade you would recommend off hand? Or least maybe a good supplier that isn't as expensive of some of this custom shops, etc?
I'm mainly going to be cutting 3/8" and 1/2" cast. Nothing really any thicker than that.
Is there a less expensives brand of 10" saw blade you would recommend off hand? Or least maybe a good supplier that isn't as expensive of some of this custom shops, etc?
I'm mainly going to be cutting 3/8" and 1/2" cast. Nothing really any thicker than that.
Modo":j1rzh2sy said:
Define "less expensive" :wink:
I think the best blade value is a brand called "Everlast". They make a 10" 80 tooth, .110" or so kerf blade that cost around $100 and is every bit as good as a Forrest or any other IMO. You can find them at www.everlastsaw.com or any place that sells/sharpens saw blades and router bits.
IMO buying "plex blades" is a waste, go ahead and get the one for cutting aluminum and brass (& other non-ferrous metals), dollar for dollar - they'll serve you every bit as well.
Below $100 there is Systematic blades which are *okay* but for $60 or so - will do the job just fine.
HTH,
James
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