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Ryan7

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When siliconing a tank together, does silicon need to be placed between the joints? or can a bead just be spread on the inside?

Also I have read about Europeaning style tanks with no center brace, what exactly does this mean?

I am thinking about building a tank 72"x19"x22", I can get the glass really cheap. I was going to use 12mm glass and temper the bottom, then silicon a 12mm 18"x6" piece of glass at the top in the middle for a brace. I was also going to use the stand to brace the bottom of the tank all the way around, and try to use the canopy to do the same on the top. Tank size similar to 135G and 150G. Does this sound reasonable?

Any suggestions for structure of tank.

thanks for advise.
 

taikonaut

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I heard it is best with silicon between the joints, since it will strengthen the tank structurally from displacements such as "scissoring."

Obviously, I never do it myself when it comes to glass...
 
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Anonymous

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If you're starting from scratch you absolutely MUST use silicone sandwiched between the panes of glass! Also, you must be certain to not get any bubbles in this initial bead of silicone.
 

taikonaut

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>... Any special ways to avoid bubbles?

Practice, practice.

As for the brace, I *think* :? the European style means that it got a "cat walk" around the top to reinforce the tank, instead of a piece of glass across the middle... right?
 
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Anonymous

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Ryan, I strongly suggest you contact vitz to talk to him as well. I wouldn't be surprised if he's done more tanks than me (and he seems to have other special tricks up his sleeve that were news to me).

I'd start with a jig to set the walls. Avoiding bubbles is a matter of drawing a good bead. Practice is definitely the way to do this. Also, once you put one piece to the next, do NOT pull it away, this will create bubbles. When it comes to the first join of corners, less is better. Once you have the four sides together (or more if that's your configuration) then set them atop the bottom piece. At that point is when you add the inside bead. It's best to do this when the silicone is as 'young' as possible.

I have no idea what a European-style brace is. I've always used a piece of glass across the middle, or, for long tanks, across the thirds of the tank. Sorry I couldn't be of more help, but it's been quite a while since I've worked the retail end of it (which is why I suggest getting in touch with vitz).
 
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Anonymous

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I wouldn't silicone between joints I'd epoxy between joints and use the silicon sealant along the inside of them. Also around the brace as well. Be careful with the epoxy it is some serious stuff and it isn't easy to fix after a mistake.
 

Fl_Seagull

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Dragoon":1vcw0279 said:
I wouldn't silicone between joints I'd epoxy between joints and use the silicon sealant along the inside of them....

I will grant you that it will hold everything together but it is very expensive.

There are reason why silicone is used. It is inexpensive, it works well, it is very forgiving, relatively beign, and flexible. Epoxy is none of these things.

I have also found that unless you have access to industrial installation equipment, building anything of any size could actual end up weaker than silicone because of poor mixing or excessive air content.

I realize that anyone who has flooded their house because of a silicone joint failing would look for a better bond between their glass plates. The new structual tapes from 3M look promising. But it is hard to beat silicone for price and performance.
 
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Anonymous

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There is a nice epoxy concoction that is very available at home depot or your local hardware store. It is in a plunger style syringe if you will. Two seperate sides and as you press on the plunger it will squeeze out equal amounts of epoxy components you then mix with a tooth pick and apply, but be careful as I said above it dries relatively quickly and is not to be taken lightly. Oh yeah and it is about the same price as a tube of silicon sealant.
 

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