FYI: cheap ball valve can cost you later down the road

[taikonaut]

Followup post on Double troubles, sort of...

I got my overflow repaired, and in the process of putting the plumbing together. Got a few cheap ball valves from Home Depot down the street, and everything goes well.

Post a few threads, and was enjoying my day. Do a few adjustments on flow rate by turning one of the ball valves a few times, and it starts to leak around the stem of the valve! 8O

Imagine if I used slip ball valve? I probably will need to throw away a big section of my assembly because of this QA issue. I am going to stick with quality industrial valve instead of saving a few bucks by using B&K cheapo junk! :evil:

 

[Anonymous]

I concure. If its schedule 40 with a red handle, DON'T buy it. I stick to schedule 80 Haywards and such (quality industrial ball valves like Taikonaut said). I always get them with true unions as well, just in case theres ever a problem.

 

[Fl_Seagull]

I just discovered my second faulty "true union sch 80 ball valve" While it wasn't a Hayward, I am beginning to think I just can't pick them out of the box right. The first one was dicovered bad just after installation. The second was installed in its place and was working fine a weeks ago. But, I started running it slightly closed to stop some micro bubble problems.

I know gate valve don't like to be run part way closed but ball valves :? ?

 

[taikonaut]

Actually, ball valve is designed to be either open or close, not anywhere in between. An on/off switch if you are the electric type.

Gate valve is for on and off and anything in between. Something like a pot. if you are the electric type.

The only ball valve that I used without any confidence issue are Haywards and Plast-O-Matics. I just don't like any generic "imports."