Someone spray painted one side of acrylic tank

[Anonymous]

Hey folks,

As you might be able to extrapolate, I've got an acrylic tank that has one extra side spray painted (custom job, probably done by an 8yo). It's a 35hex, and now, instead of three black sides, it's got four (hey, at LEAST he chose black!). I don't think there is any way possible, but I promised my son I'd ask (he wants to set up a freshwater tank): is there any way to remove this without destroying the acrylic?

As for what spray paint, this had to have happened years ago (it's been in the garage for better than ten years) I'm going with Rustoleum glossy black.

 

[Acrylics]

Probably not, most paints contain alcohols or other solvents and get "into" the acrylic itself. You could sand the hell out of it but you probably won't get a result you'll be pleased with.

James

 

[Anonymous]

Exactly my thoughts, Acrylics. The boy and some of his (BRILLIANT) friends were ready to go at it with a bottle of acetone, til I caught them. Then they wanted to have at it with a razor blade! I explained to them that, were this tank glass, I could get it cleaned up but sweet. Not so with acrylic.

It really galls them when Mom's right. <shrug> In my opinion it'll just have to be a corner tank.

 

[Anonymous]

THere is a product called OOPS. it's in a white can. Check the paint section of HD. I used it to take paint off a Plexiglass chair. It might work for you. Test a small area towards the bottom.

I had to let it soak for a while, but it worked. (I soaked a towel with it, then saran wrapped it to the chair.)

B

 

[Anonymous]

" "OOPS!" has been formulated to remove dried latex paint. Properly used, it has little or no effect on oil based paints, varnishes, lacquers and shellac. Now Mr. Homeowner can remove drips, spills, and other dried latex accidents from furniture, hardwood floors, cabinets, wood panel, woodwork, shoes, netal and glass surfaces; carpet, Formica, itc. Also removes tar, lipstick, shoe polish, ball point ink (not) magic marker (not), oil, grease, crayons, etc."

"CONTAINS: Ethyl Alcohol CAS364-17-5; VM&P Naptha CAS#8032-32-4; Xylene CAS#1330-20-7; Monochloro Toluene CAS #25168-05-2"

"DIRECTIONS: To remove dried latex paint, saturate wet cloth or paper towel with "OOPS!" Dapen the area and then rub lightly. Always test an inconspicuous area first, if possible. Repaeat this process until paint has been removed. On capets or other fabrics that have first been tested, pour generously on cloth, then blot and rub. do not pour dirctly onto carpet, it may damage the glue backing."

 

[Kevin1000]

I don't think any of the typical paint remover products are going to work. If I was desperate I might try using a heat gun.

I sure hate to think how many "invisible" scratches I have on the back side of my black backed acrlyic tank. If I removed the black paint it would take me about six months to remove the scratches.

 

[Anonymous]

A heat gun..?? I'd never once considered applying heat. The three black sides are black acrylic, so there's only that one extra side (for an 8yo whichever of my boys did it did a pretty good job, no overspray).

How much of a chance is there that heat could allow any of the joints to come apart?

 

[Acrylics]

The joints shouldn't come apart at all as they ought to be essentially homogenous. The problem with heat is material deformation. If heat guns are hot enough to cause paint to come off - they are hot enough to cause acrylic to deform as it's forming temp is usually right around 300F.
This will also depend on the paint used, if it contains any solvents - the colorant will now be "in" the material and will not come out completely.

James

 

[Kevin1000]

Acrylics

Noticed your from PDX - is there a good spot to pick up acrlyic at reasonable rates?

Thanks.