Suggestions for tank design

[doctor_random]

I would like suggestions for designing a tank given the space I have to work with. See attached pix for available space. See-through Starlite glass tank will be 55" long x 15" deep (front-to-back) x 25" high, two cabinet spaces below are 24" long x 12" deep by 22" high, flanking tall cabinets are 15" wide x 12" deep x 86" high. I am in the planning stages, initially to be a FOWLR but eventually progressing to a full reef setup. Planning on a sump/skimmer below (?Lifereef?) and possibly separate refugium. Will need chiller eventually. I want to do this right (given the space I have), your help would be appreciated! Thanks!

 

[doctor_random]

Design recommendations

I am in the planning stages of setting up a marine fish tank, initially to be a FOWLR, but eventually progressing to a reef tank. I would like your opinions regarding general design. I would like design to include a refugium (sand bed/mud, macroalgae, copepod habitat, as large as possible), venturi skimmer in the sump (Lifereef?), I?ll be using a UV sterilizer, but no plans for ozone at this point. I would like the option of a calcium reactor in the future, but not for a year or two. Attached are pictures of the enclosure for the tank. The custom Starfire glass tank will be 55" long x 15" deep x 25" high (about 80 gal, not including sump/refugium). In-tank overflow box, and water return will be with a Gen-X 55 pump (at least?). I?m not planning on any powerheads in the display tank. I will probably be adding a chiller when the tank becomes a reef, as room temp is already 75-80 all the time. I?m thinking of using one of the new LED lighting systems, as heat dissipation is going to be a problem in this setup.

As you can see from the pictures the tank will be open to viewing on two sides ? it?s going to be built inside a divider between two rooms. All of the surrounding cabinetry is for dedicated fish tank use (although the enclosed pictures show random storage junk in them now.) Looking at the enclosed pictures, directly under the tank are two cabinets with a working area of 24" wide x 12" deep x 22" high each. There is a structural support between the two cabinets? this support can be drilled through for plumbing and a section could be cut out to allow access between the cabinets, but the support cannot be removed without major carpentry (sorry!). Flanking the tank are two hollow floor-to-ceiling cabinets measuring 15" wide x 12" deep x 86" high. Access to these cabinets can be drilled as well. All cabinets have removable shelving. There is enclosed space over the tank for lighting. Venting can be done via top of enclosure into soffit.

This system is in a city apartment building, so it has to be "bullet proof" ? i.e. the probability of a leak, overflow, fire, pump burnout, fish (or human) electrocution, or other "act of God" has to approach zero (assuming I do proper maintenance on the system.) (Float-valve shutoffs? Check-valves? I would like the system to be as quiet as possible.

Thanks in advance.

 

[tosiek]

Can ya make the pic bigger? Would be a nice setup. Whats the space in the center and are you giving yourself enough room for lighting in the future for your reef. Give yourself room for adjustments.

 

[doctor_random]

Fish Wall Details

I think you can click on the pic to upsize it...

I would like the design to include a refugium (sand bed/mud, macroalgae, copepod habitat, as large as possible), venturi skimmer in the sump (Lifereef?), I?ll be using a UV sterilizer, but no plans for ozone at this point. I would like the option of a calcium reactor in the future, but not for a year or two. The custom Starfire glass tank will be 55" long x 15" deep x 25" high (about 80 gal, not including sump/refugium). In-tank overflow box, and water return will be with a Gen-X 55 pump (at least?). I?m not planning on any powerheads in the display tank. I will probably be adding a chiller when the tank becomes a reef, as room temp is already 75-80 all the time. I?m thinking of using one of the new LED lighting systems, as heat dissipation is going to be a problem in this setup.

As you can see from the pictures the tank will be open to viewing on two sides ? it?s going to be built inside a divider between two rooms. All of the surrounding cabinetry is for dedicated fish tank use (although the enclosed pictures show random storage junk in them now.) Looking at the enclosed pictures, directly under the tank are two cabinets with a working area of 24" wide x 12" deep x 22" high each. There is a structural support between the two cabinets? this support can be drilled through for plumbing and a section could be cut out to allow access between the cabinets, but the support cannot be removed without major carpentry (sorry!). Flanking the tank are two hollow floor-to-ceiling cabinets measuring 15" wide x 12" deep x 86" high. Access to these cabinets can be drilled as well. All cabinets have removable shelving. There is enclosed space over the tank for lighting, venting can be done through the top of the enclosure into the soffit.

This system is in a city apartment building, so it has to be "bullet proof" ? i.e. the probability of a leak, overflow, fire, pump burnout, fish (or human) electrocution, or other "act of God" has to approach zero (assuming I do proper maintenance on the system.) Float-valve shutoffs? Check-valves?

I would like the system to be as quiet as possible, is it's in a den/livinroom area. Quiet tank watching area...

Thanks!

 

[jhale]

that 15" wide tank is going to be difficult to aquascape, especially being seen from both sides. the cabinetry will have to be reenforced, that will be a lot of weight being placed on it.
for a chiller that will be placed inside a room I recommend the peltech series, http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=40_43_205, they give off no heat and are silent.

 

[reefman]

arranging lr is kind of like an artist painting on a canvas. i find the best way is to lay out all your rock on the floor. then put them as large, med, small n put in 1 at a time. take your time n start with large pieces.

 

[tosiek]

the cabinetry will have to be reenforced, that will be a lot of weight being placed on it.

Thats why i asked to get a larger picture. Can't see too well the contruction of the cabinets even in the blown up picture. And also whats the measurements of the area your planning on adding the tank into? Don't forget your going to have to add lights ontop and have room to stick your hands in to place the rock and move frags and stuff around occasionally.

 

[LeslieS]

My tank is 18" wide and aquascaping is a major pain. It is really hard to keep everything from looking like it is lined up in a row. Also, you have to leave a couple inches clearance for the magnafloat cleaner. I would definitely go with a wider tank next time. I do love seeing the tank from both sides - you will never "lose" anything behind the rocks

 

[doctor_random]

Fish Wall Suggetsions

The tank will fit in a 55" long x 15" deep (front-to-back) by 25" high space. All base cabinetry was built specifically for tank use (of bamboo-clad-marine plywood or solid pine), contractor built base to hold 1800+ lbs. Will have 5" clearance above tank for lights, shelf above tank has removable cutout panels (had to do it this way for structural support of the whole wall, unfortunately). Space isn't ideal, but there were non-marine tank design constraints involved...:thanks: for suggestions.

 

[Josh]

you will never "lose" anything behind the rocks

If I remember correctly that isn't a problem with Snowball.

 

[doctor_random]

Fish Wall Questions, Con't

How best to configure overflow box/drain? Drill straight down though bottom of tank, direct gravity feed (without elbows) into sump?

Should sump have submersible pump to feed refugium, or should I split overflow box drain to go to refugium and sump?

Do I need water returns from both sides of the tank, or will one side be enough? (I don't want to use powerheads).

DR

 

[LeslieS]

If I remember correctly that isn't a problem with Snowball

Agh! He is being such a pain! He menaced a feather duster and now it won't come out of its tube...:headache:

Do I need water returns from both sides of the tank, or will one side be enough? (I don't want to use powerheads).

My long skinny tank only has a return at one end and it makes setting up a random flow impossible. The flow creates a race track and then swirls around and comes back up. If you are trying to avoid power heads, I would do a return at each end.

 

[doctor_random]

... makes setting up a random flow impossible. The flow creates a race track and then swirls around and comes back up.

I suspected that... are there any "to-and-fro" attachments I can put on the end of the returns to automatically change the angle of the return stream?

 

[jhale]

you can use the wavysea, they work great but work best with more flow than you would want going through your sump imo. they are really well built.
http://www.wavysea.com/
without powerheads, if you want to keep a reef you'll have to set up a closed loop for flow. 2 of these units on a tank the size your getting would be great on a closed loop.