I've got a blueline regulator on my Ca reactor - this one. I think I'm coming-up on two years with it and it's never given me a moments trouble, but lately, I can't seem to hold a setting on the needle valve. The bubble count just dwindles off until it almost stops. The tank gauge is reading 900 PSI, second gauge is as 10 PSI, solenoid seems to be working fine. Any ideas? Thanks...
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Flaky Needle Valve?
- Thread starter ChrisRD
- Start date
It is "normal" problem of needle valve. There is so little tolerance between the tapered needle and the orifice that even small movement of the needle will make a big difference in the flow.
Before you commited to my statement above, make sure it is not the reactor's flow problem. Check and make sure the reactor media is not compacted, and all the tubing is not blocked/clogged.
If everything else is in good shape, see if you can take the needle valve apart (I am not familiar with your model, so I don't know if this can be done at all...) Make sure the needle is smoothly tapered, and there is no salt deposit or corrosion on it (it does get corroded if you are not careful about back pressure from reactor when you take the regulator off the CO2 cylinder) Check the orifice and see if you find any rust/irregularity (very hard to see in mind...) Make sure the needle assembly's thread is not stripped, and there is no lateral movement when you shake (be gentle, a needle valve is very delicate). Sometimes if you over-tighten your needle valve, and push the needle too far in, you can damage the needle's shape, and ruin its tuning ability.
Before you commited to my statement above, make sure it is not the reactor's flow problem. Check and make sure the reactor media is not compacted, and all the tubing is not blocked/clogged.
If everything else is in good shape, see if you can take the needle valve apart (I am not familiar with your model, so I don't know if this can be done at all...) Make sure the needle is smoothly tapered, and there is no salt deposit or corrosion on it (it does get corroded if you are not careful about back pressure from reactor when you take the regulator off the CO2 cylinder) Check the orifice and see if you find any rust/irregularity (very hard to see in mind...) Make sure the needle assembly's thread is not stripped, and there is no lateral movement when you shake (be gentle, a needle valve is very delicate). Sometimes if you over-tighten your needle valve, and push the needle too far in, you can damage the needle's shape, and ruin its tuning ability.
I took apart the needle valve and seems to be fine. I contacted Blueline and they said it sounded like the reactor was getting pressure locked.
Per their suggestion, I'm now controlling effluent rate by restricting flow BEFORE the reactor to keep pressure build-up inside the reactor to a minimum. I never had to do this before, and I'm feeding the reactor with the same small powerhead. Anyway, even with this change, I'm still having the same problem (although there does seem to be a noticeable improvement).
BTW, I'm using JG Speed fittings and polyethylene lines now as opposed to hose barb fittings and clear vinyl hose last year (when I wasn't having any problems).
Now I'm wondering if I may have a CO2 leak somewhere that could be causing this?
Per their suggestion, I'm now controlling effluent rate by restricting flow BEFORE the reactor to keep pressure build-up inside the reactor to a minimum. I never had to do this before, and I'm feeding the reactor with the same small powerhead. Anyway, even with this change, I'm still having the same problem (although there does seem to be a noticeable improvement).
BTW, I'm using JG Speed fittings and polyethylene lines now as opposed to hose barb fittings and clear vinyl hose last year (when I wasn't having any problems).
Now I'm wondering if I may have a CO2 leak somewhere that could be causing this?
I doubt very much that the "noticeable improvement" that you are seeing has anything to do with the location of the ball valve, unless you keep turning the feeding pump on and off all day long.
Anyway, PE tubing is slightly better than clear vinyl because of lowered algae growth and less likely to be clogged. But the down side is that you can't see the problem as easily as clear tubing.
CO2 leak is minimal (thru the tubing's wall) unless you did a bad job on the connection that there is a pinhole somewhere. Usually, your CO2 cylinder will goes empty in weeks if not sooner if there is a pinhole leak. CO2 leakage thru the tubing wall is very minimal, and should not cause the problem you experience even if you have miles of tubing.
Anyway, PE tubing is slightly better than clear vinyl because of lowered algae growth and less likely to be clogged. But the down side is that you can't see the problem as easily as clear tubing.
CO2 leak is minimal (thru the tubing's wall) unless you did a bad job on the connection that there is a pinhole somewhere. Usually, your CO2 cylinder will goes empty in weeks if not sooner if there is a pinhole leak. CO2 leakage thru the tubing wall is very minimal, and should not cause the problem you experience even if you have miles of tubing.
If it is not the blockage problem in your reactor, a new quality needle valve should solve your problem. Don't thru the old valve away, it is still worth to keep around just in case it is your reactor or a bad regulator.
For the regulator issue, since you have a low pressure gauage on the regulator (10PSI, right?), I think it is probably not the problem in your case.
For the regulator issue, since you have a low pressure gauage on the regulator (10PSI, right?), I think it is probably not the problem in your case.
DanConnor":hngza00p said:Hey, I have a question- where exactly is the check valve supposed to be on this rig?
Never did figure that out! I don't think there is one...
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