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bhanson

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I want to use a tank that I already have to make a sump. What is the best way for me to secure baffles into a glass tank, is it possible?

Thanks
 
A

Anonymous

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Use acrylic for the baffles and silicone them in. Use the silicone that is for windows and doors, not kitchen and bath. The kitchen and bath type has a mildew additive that is harmful to your reef.

Louey
 

Newbler

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It's REALLY easy. You can get the silicone from home depot just make sure it says aquarium safe on the package. Here's some pics of one I am building for a friend. All that's left is to glue the center baffle in and drill some holes and it's done. Make sure you glue the baffle supports on the ends at the tank walls 1st. It makes things so much easier to line up. Hope this helps.

sump.jpg


sump2.jpg


sump1.jpg


4.jpg

This last one is a pic of the one I built for myself in action.

If you have any questions holler! :D
 

bhanson

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Nice what should I use for water flow to and from the sump? I plan on using an overflow box, what kind of pump should I use to return water. My tank (75 Gal) is about 5 feet up from where the sump would be. Do I need to drill holes in the sump or can water come in and go out directly from the top of the sump. Thanks for the help! :D
 

Newbler

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It all depends on how much DIY you wanna do. Let me clear some stuff up real quick. I was in a hurry the other night and didn't have time to post what I wanted to say.

As far as the baffles are concerned. I outlined the "baffle spacers" in my pics in red. If you take the 2 that are on the side of the sump and "glue" them in 1st you will have a much easier time with the 1st 2 baffles. All you have to do is brace them against the "bracers" and then use a square to make it true. "Glue" everything up and you're ready to add the 2 inside "baffle braces". Glue those in and you have everything really solid. The cool thing about them is you have a place to lay some egg crate for a spounge or carbon or something. Next is the center baffle. Just set it in on top of the "braces and use a square and some books or something to make it true. "Glue" it in and VOILA you just saved $200.

As far as drilling goes I did it just because I was worried about heat. I'm a polar bear but my wife is a chicken. She keeps the house hot as hell and I didn't wanna buy a chiller. I've also heard you clean an external pump more than you will an internal one.... so I hear. :roll: If you shop around the bit will cost you about $40 bucks.

I don't like HOB overflows. I know people use them and will fight until they are bloody to defend them but nothing IMO beats a drilled tank. I've used them and it never fails. I get bubbles in the U-Tube and I've ALMOST had wet floors. They are too much work IMO. I'm about to help a friend try and DIY some overflows on his stock tank if you want to wait a while. It may take a couple weeks though.

I had a hell of a time trying to get anyone to help me with my sump so if you have ANY questions please feel free to post them or email me. I'd love to try and help someone avoid the hell I went through.
 

bhanson

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Ok that does help, does the return pump conrol the rate of over flow to the sump? I will be using an overflow b/c my tank is not drilled. The overflow I am using is rated at 600 gph, I am guessing a pump rated about the same will be ok.?. I will probably be using an internal pump, I am looking at the MAG pump that is rated about 700 gph.

Thanks for the help, I am still new to the whole DIY sump thing. I should have started this tank with one and had it pre-drilled.
 

ChrisRD

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bhanson":1elgz1x5 said:
Ok that does help, does the return pump conrol the rate of over flow to the sump?
Yes. Basically, however fast you pump it up to the tank is what comes down the overflow drain.
bhanson":1elgz1x5 said:
I will be using an overflow b/c my tank is not drilled. The overflow I am using is rated at 600 gph, I am guessing a pump rated about the same will be ok.?. I will probably be using an internal pump, I am looking at the MAG pump that is rated about 700 gph.
That rating is with no head or friction losses accounted for. In your application, the Mag 7 will most likely be doing less than 500 GPH so you'll be fine.
 

ChrisRD

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Newbler":283w2ozl said:
The Mag 7 should be fine. make sure you put a gate valve on the return to control your flow though.
Gate valves are better when precision adjustments are needed, but in this application, a ball valve would be sufficient (and cheaper).

IMO it's a good idea to plumb any return pump with ball valves and unions to facilitate removal for future maintainence/replacement anyway...
 

glaze

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Good thread. I'm hanging on for the advice too.

Is there a good authoritative resource to consult before planning baffle placement?

I am thinking of converting a 38 gallon tank to a sump for my 75g main tank and would need to install some baffles.

I will have a Remora Pro hangon skimmer on one end of the sump and a Mag 7 return pump on the other, DSB refugium in between.

Thanks for any advice.
 

Rob Top

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Search e-bay for "dimond hole saw" I got my 60mm for $13.50 that was shipped and a 45mm for $9.50. The guy I got mine from is out of Hong Kong, so it is all in mm. The 60 is to cut holes for my 1.5" bulk head and the 45is for 1" bulk heads. If you aren't sure what size mm hole saw you need so a google for a metric conversion chart and you can figure it out from there.
Newbler great advice on the side supports! my last sump the baffles bursted out of place, this new one wont with the supports. THANKS
 

saltank

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Newbler, when you say "glue" the acrylic in place, are you referring to using silicone? Or is there some other adhesive you use

I am also in the process of planning a sump for my 46gal which is not drilled so I am faced with using a HOB (been searching for a used lifereef overflow)

How do you cut the acrylic to the size you need?

Thanks
 

glaze

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I've heard that glass-on-glass bonds much better than acrylic on glass. Is that true or can I use acrylic for baffles in glass tank sump?
 

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