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Len

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I need to cut my overflow which is 1/4" regular glass. Anyone have advice on this? I'm thinking it's not worth the risk.
 
A

Anonymous

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easy as pie. I used a rotozip and the tile cutting bit.

B
 

Rob Top

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I just cut a 60mm hole in some 1/4" glass using a hole cutter. Easy as pie. I have done the dremel tool/ tile bit way too and the whole saw is WAY easier. all you have to do is keep the bit lubed with water.
here is a cut and paste with the advise I follwed


Aquarium Drilling

Aquariums are often drilled to allow for installation of side-entry filter systems rather that standard top-mount systems. The side-entry systems also provide better flow-through water movement where that is a special factor. Drilling in aquariums is not difficult - it is basically the same as drilling normal glass. However, additional precaution should be taken when drilling aquariums compared to normal glass.

There is always a small risk of causing a break when drilling any glass. While the risk is extremely small if proper drilling techniques are used, this small risk is always there. If a break would occur when drilling in regular glass, it is frustrating, but not a major loss. However, the loss of an aquarium is much more significant, so reasonable care should be taken.

As additional 'comfort', we offer that the structural integrity of glass increases significantly as it becomes thicker. So, the small risk of a drilling problem actually reduces significantly as the size (and cost) of the aquarium increases. Based upon our testing and our customer contact, we offer the following suggestions for aquarium drilling.

Take proper care: You don't need to be an expert at drilling glass or aquariums. No matter if it is a 20 gallon tank or 2,000 gallons. Take your time, use proper drilling speeds, low drill pressure, good water lubrication and follow a few basic cautions relative to aquarium drilling.

Be sure you have the right sized drill bit: Pipe is measured as an inside diameter. So 1-1/2" pipe or a 1-1/2" fitting will have an 'inside diameter' of 1-1/2". However, the outside diameter can vary depending upon the type of pipe or fitting used and depending upon the specific manufacturer. Be sure to measure the outside diameter properly so that you drill the correct size hole. This may sound rather basic, but we assure you that it is a common mistake.

Avoid drilling in the bottom of the tank: The bottom of a tank is often tempered glass, but it is extremely rare for the sides to be tempered. Additionally, the water weight on the bottom is significantly higher than on the sides of a tank. Anytime glass is cut or drilled, micro fractures always occur along the cut, plus a hole reduces the structural strength of the glass. While tanks are generally "over engineered" to be much stronger than actually needed for their capacity, the bottom is the "weakest link" and should generally be avoided.

Drill at least 1" from the sides of the glass: All glass contains minor imperfections and flaws. Micro fractures also occur along the edge of glass when it is cut. To avoid placing any additional stress on those weak spots, we recommend staying at least 1" away from any glass edge.

Use proper lubrication techniques: Basic lubrication techniques are discussed above in Lubrication Tips & Techniques <Click Here>. The best lubrication method for tank drilling is to position the surface horizontally and use a dam made of clay or similar material around the drill area. The method as discussed in the above section, is very simple and also very effective. If a large stationary tank is being drilled in the vertical position, use the 'spray method' and take care to get as much of the spray into the drill slot as possible.

Assure adequate lubrication: While drilling, it helps to raise the drill up and down a fraction of an inch once in a while as you drill (about every minute or so). This merely assures that water enters the drill hole completely and fully lubricates the very tip of the bit . The technique is especially helpful when drilling larger tanks with thick walls.

Ease off when you are nearly through: As a drill breaks through the back side of any material, it will cause some splintering. Due to the brittle fragile nature of glass and your desire to retain structural integrity, you want to minimize the splintering. Merely reduce the drill pressure as you near the back of the glass. This is one of those rare instances where time is your friend. If it takes you 3 minutes to drill 3/4 of the way through, back off and use another 3 minutes to go most of the the the remaining 1/4. The final 1/32" to 1/16" is the most delicate, so again take your time and ease up on the pressure.

If your hole ends up being a little too tight: You don't want the hole to be any larger than you actually need, but sometimes people cut it a little too close. Since the pipe fittings are normally plastic, an easy solution is to use fine sand paper to reduce the outside diameter of the fitting slightly. If your hole is a little too large, the gasket on the fitting normally provides extra room and should provide an adequate seal.

Finally: Drilling holes in any glass reduces the structural integrity of the glass and will reduce the safety levels that were intentionally engineered into an aquarium. We must specifically state that in offering these tips and techniques, we do not accept any liability and disclaim any express or implied warranties and all incidental or consequential damages should problems arise from using our products for drilling aquariums.

The link is
http://www.shopsmartxpress.com/AmeriGls/W9.htm

I bought my hole saw from this guy
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrp ... uQ2aQ2aQ2a
had my bit in about a week.

This Friday I am putting 2 60mm holes in my 125 and 3 45mm holes in one of my 75's. As time goes on I will be drilling all my tanks. Anyone want to buy some CPR overflows :lol:
 

Rob Top

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Drilled my holes and all is well. I was suprised at how fast the bit went through the thick glass of my 125. now I just need to plumb them up and get things going.
 

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