Thinking of building an acrylic tank

[mark78]

Friend is a cabinet builder and has everything we need in his garage/work shop. Can you use a jointer on the edges of the acrylic to get a good seam, or will it shred/melt the acrylic?

60x24x30... will 1/2" acrylic work or do I need to go thicker? For the lid I was going to just lay a sheet across and route out the majority of it...leaving maybe a 2" lip and a 4" wide center brace?

Doesn't look that hard...

 

[minibowmatt]

I use a jointer daily to prepare edges on my acrylic projects. It produces a great edge that needs no more prep IMO. As for size, I'm sure others will chime in.

 

[Anonymous]

Check out the thickness calculator at Cyro's website.

The 30" height is what is driving the thickness of your tank.

I would go with 3" lip all the way around along with a center brace or two.

Louey

 

[Anonymous]

The Cyro's calculator typically give you very conservative estimate, and most acrylic builder usually get away with thinner material to save cost.

For a 30 inch tall tank, I would tell you, IME, that you want to use thicker material than 1/2. The tank I am in the process of setting up is a 60X18X30, and it is 1/2. I was looking for 3/4 for the tank of that size, but have to compromise due to time constraint. If I build it from scratch, I would definitely use 3/4. The lip on it is 4 inch on the front, and it could use more. The center is about 6 or 8 inches wide. You definitely is pushing your luck there.

 

[steene_c]

i have a blue print posted if you would like to see it just go to do it youself and go in to Do it yourself tank

 

[mark78]

thanks for the replys. talked to my friend and he is concerned with using the jointer and keeping a 60x30 sheet level on the blade, so we may just jig up the router if we do it.

my 125g (72x18x20) is 3/8th acrylic except for the lid which is 1/4". Small access holes, the top is very much in tact, maybe 2, 12x8 access holes.

Hmm maybe I will drop it down to more like 26" tall.

 

[Anonymous]

With 1/2 inch, go with 24 inch tall to be safe.

 

[sandmantis64]

you need to reach the bottom of your tank, i would go with nothing deeper than i could reach. just a thought. small access holes dont leave much room for large rock or mobility inside the tank...

 

[Acrylics]

If doing the 30"height, I'd suggest 3/4" material throughout, you can skimp a little on the bottom if ya want though and use 1/2" but then you'd be buying another sheet. The top can then be a 3" flange and one 6" centerbrace yielding 2 openings measuring 18 x 24" not accounting for overflow(s).
If buying full sheets, get a 4 x 8' and a 5 x 8' sheet. The top, bottom, and ends will yield well out of a 4 x 8', the front and back will come out of the 5 x 8' and you'll have a 60 x 36" left over for other projects. The other alternative would be to get all vertical panels out of the 5 x 8' and use 1/2" for the top and bottom which will yield a 36 x 48" drop but I'd suggest paying the extra $100 and using all 3/4".
The cut list will be as follows:
2 60.25 x 28.625" will finish at 60.25 x 28.5" (front & back)
2 22.625 x 28.625" will finish at 22.5 x 28.5" (ends)
2 60.25 x 24.25" (top & bottom)

If doing the 26" height, you'll have to work a little for best yield but not that hard. get a 5 x 8' of 1/2" Polycast material which comes at 63 x 100" so you'll get all 60" panels and then you'll need a 2 x 4' chunk of Polycast which comes at 51" wide so you'll get both ends out of it. Also, if doing the 26" height, increase the flange & centerbrace widths to 4" & 8" respectively for best results, this will give you 2 opening - each measuring roughly 16 x 22", again, not accounting for overflow(s).
Cut list as follows:
2 60.25" x 25.125" will finish at 60.25 x 25" (front & back)
2 23.125 x 25.125" will finish at 23 x 25" (ends)
2 60.25" x 24.25" (top & bottom)

You will want to cut everything a little over to account for material to be machined off, 1/16" is a good amount to machine off so that's why the two sets of dimensions.

You're going to need to get the width of the vertical panels to be within .003" or so which is something that jointers generally cannot do so I'd suggest a larger router table.

As for not looking that hard, it's not, really, but once you have the material machined - technique is everything so practice first, alot

Hope this makes sense,

James

 

[Anonymous]

>...As for not looking that hard, it's not, really, but once you have the material machined - technique is everything so practice first, alot

IME, I usually end up screwing up first two trials, and got it right the third time, if I have a lucky day. :wink: