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Anonymous

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for my big vivarium with 1/2 inch acrylic. Not really clear if I need them or why...
 

ChrisRD

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The pins (really thin wire can be used too) are used to create a small gap so you can get plenty of solvent in the seam. You let the edges soak for like 30 seconds (I think it varies depending on acrylic thickness and solvent used) and then pull the pins/wires and apply pressure while it cures.

Since your vivarium won't have much water to hold it may not be all that critical to get super strong joints. For overflow boxes I just hold the pieces together and run the needle applicator down the seam. Seems to work well enough for an overflow box...

But, my advice is ignore me and wait for a pro like James to give you some actual help! :wink:
 
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Anonymous

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Chris's advice is right own.

Your main concern would be to have bubble free seams so that they look good. Bubble free seams are also very strong which is more important for tanks that hold water.

I'd use 'em if I were you.

Louey
 
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Anonymous

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For your case, it is more for the looks than anything.

With good edge-work, the piece fit so well together that you may have a hard time getting capillary action to work for you. The pin is needed in this case so that it make the gap wider. The wider gap serves two main purposes. 1, to get better capillary action (gap too narrow or too wide won't work well), and 2, to let air bubble to escape so that when you clamp the piece down, there is not trapped bubble.

Soaking the edge is usually done with a shallow pan. For 1/2 material, I don't think you need to do that. It is one of the best way to ensure good joint if you do it correctly.
 

minibowmatt

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I agree with everyone else. The pins work for super tight joints. I have found that with a jointer you dont need the pins, it seems like my jointer leaves little ripples, that suck the solvent right in. These ripples arent effecting the joint, but must be allowing enough airspace to suck solvent.

Just my $.02
 

Acrylics

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I wouldn't use pins for building a tank, just too thick IMO. The thickest you'd need is .010 - .015" so twist-ties (usually .014") work very well and cheap :). Either nab the ones out of the Hefty bags or swipe some extras from the produce dept in many grocery stores. If the wires or pins are too thick, the gap will be too great and surface tension will not wick the solvent along the joint and solvent can "bleed" into the rest of the work.

As others have stated, the wires or "pins" are simply to have a gap between the surfaces to be glued. If there is no gap, very little (if any) solvent can get between the pcs so a dry joint is the result which are not as strong. I wouldn't suggest waiting longer than 30 seconds (max) for 1/2" as joints can start to set in that time. 20 seconds is typical 'round here but solvents vary so reaction times will as well.

HTH?
James
 
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Anonymous

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So you mean the pins or twist ties should be pulled out in 20 or 30 seconds?

I'm sure its going to take me longer than 30 seconds just to get to one end... I'm going to skip them all together and see if it wicks well.

I'll keep some twist ties on hand though.
 

Trixter

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Dont mean to hi jack the thread, but what method would you recommend for acrylic panels 1.25" thick? Thanks for your ideas.
 

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