ive been thinking about trying to build a wave creator/ tide machine or whateevr its really called i searched and searched for something to look at to see how they work.. i cant remember where i saw one in the first place... basically i am thinking about getting a 15gal or (maybe more) rubbermaid tub and mounting it above my tank using a powerhead to fill it from main tank then when its full have it dump back into the tank from a closed loop.. much like a toilet would... anyone ever made one?
tide machine
- Thread starter fload
- Start date
No problem. I have had THE WORST case of insomnia for around 3 mothns now. 
so I read and post :lol:
Here is one example of a surge bucket:
http://www.aquatouch.com/surge_b.htm
so I read and post :lol:Here is one example of a surge bucket:
http://www.aquatouch.com/surge_b.htm
I actually have a pair of surge devices planned for my current tank. However, due to not having a shelf high enough or an extra pump, I have been forced to postpone actually attaching them.
The simplist method that I have found for a surge device is the use of a gravity powered syphon. Simply put, you fill a surge bucket with water and then a syphon kicks in and drains the tank faster than it fills up.
To do this, you place the drain in your surge bucket so that when the water level rises the drain will be be covered before the bucket overflows. Once the water level exceeds the level of the drain, a syphon should form. Of course there is a pipe in the surge bucket that leads to the drain and allows the syphon to drain all the way to the bottom of the bucket. Since the diameter of the drain pipe is larger than that of the pump pipe, the water will move out faster that it is pumped in.
I believe the main conserns are bubbles, incomplete syphons, and water level issues. The only easy way to get rid of bubbles is to not use a surge bucket and by a wave maker timer instead. Incomplete syphons are when the syphoning never actually kicks in but the water still enters the drain. I believe this is related to the acutal rate that the water level rised in the surge bucket. If the water level rises to slowly (due to a shallow bucket or slow pump) the water level will never get above the drain b/c the pipe is too big. The water can succesfully drain fast enough before the actual syphon forms.
The final problem associated with surge devices is the varying water level. To minimize drastic water level changes in the actual display tank, you will have to have a overflow that can handle the extra flow. My 30 gallon tank has two 1" overflows, allowing approximatly 1200 gph total to flow through them before a syphon must be formed. As for the sump, there is no way to get around the changing water level; this can be a problem if you have an auto top off system. I have decided the best way to have both a surge bucket and a auto top of system is thus:
Your surge buckets must be set up to drain back into the sump when the pumps to them are turned off. You sump therefore has to be able to handle the extra water (this is were those extra tall and thin tanks that are not good for aqua scaping and coral really shine). You then put your surge device and auto top off system on an alternatating timer. You can have your noisy surge device automatically turned off at night when the noise would be bothersome and then, after giving the surge buckets time to drain, the auto top of system will cut on and top off the tank.
Of course there are other ways to set up the autotop of systems; however, I do believe that the simplist and cheapest method is best. I hope this helps.
-Isaac
The simplist method that I have found for a surge device is the use of a gravity powered syphon. Simply put, you fill a surge bucket with water and then a syphon kicks in and drains the tank faster than it fills up.
To do this, you place the drain in your surge bucket so that when the water level rises the drain will be be covered before the bucket overflows. Once the water level exceeds the level of the drain, a syphon should form. Of course there is a pipe in the surge bucket that leads to the drain and allows the syphon to drain all the way to the bottom of the bucket. Since the diameter of the drain pipe is larger than that of the pump pipe, the water will move out faster that it is pumped in.
I believe the main conserns are bubbles, incomplete syphons, and water level issues. The only easy way to get rid of bubbles is to not use a surge bucket and by a wave maker timer instead. Incomplete syphons are when the syphoning never actually kicks in but the water still enters the drain. I believe this is related to the acutal rate that the water level rised in the surge bucket. If the water level rises to slowly (due to a shallow bucket or slow pump) the water level will never get above the drain b/c the pipe is too big. The water can succesfully drain fast enough before the actual syphon forms.
The final problem associated with surge devices is the varying water level. To minimize drastic water level changes in the actual display tank, you will have to have a overflow that can handle the extra flow. My 30 gallon tank has two 1" overflows, allowing approximatly 1200 gph total to flow through them before a syphon must be formed. As for the sump, there is no way to get around the changing water level; this can be a problem if you have an auto top off system. I have decided the best way to have both a surge bucket and a auto top of system is thus:
Your surge buckets must be set up to drain back into the sump when the pumps to them are turned off. You sump therefore has to be able to handle the extra water (this is were those extra tall and thin tanks that are not good for aqua scaping and coral really shine). You then put your surge device and auto top off system on an alternatating timer. You can have your noisy surge device automatically turned off at night when the noise would be bothersome and then, after giving the surge buckets time to drain, the auto top of system will cut on and top off the tank.
Of course there are other ways to set up the autotop of systems; however, I do believe that the simplist and cheapest method is best. I hope this helps.
-Isaac
The auto top off problem can be solved simply by setting the float for the autotop off at the low level. So when all the water is up in the surge devices the float is at such a level where if it needs to add water it does.
Then when the surges flush the float is underwater and still stays closed.
A setup like that would actually work better than a normal one because the float valve would constantly be being washed off. Mine gets covered with saltcreep....
Then when the surges flush the float is underwater and still stays closed.
A setup like that would actually work better than a normal one because the float valve would constantly be being washed off. Mine gets covered with saltcreep....
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