PLEASE HELP With Auto Top Off Solution.......

[tcmike641]

I have a 300 gallon FOWLR tank that constantly needs water to top off. Unfortunately my apt got flooded a few months back and now I'm re doing my entire place. I am dedicating a closet on the same level as my tank, to a 35 gallon garbage can with RO water. I have no idea how to setup a auto top off with floating switches and a pump. What is the easiest solution for this? I am able to run tubes up and behind the wall. Any and all help is apprecaited.

Would I need power in my closet? for any return pumps????

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Mike, and :welcome:

I have a 32G brute that is connect to my RO using a float valve.

I have a MJ-1200 in the brute that is plugged into a receptacle that is controlled by two float switches that are located in my sump. That controls the water level and makes top-off automatic.

Two float switches are necessary to insure that you don't get a flood if (or when) one fails. The odds of both failing are remote.

Spetrapute Litermeter makes some good products too, but I am not personally familiar with them. I am sure someone will chime in and tell you about them.

Louey

 

[das75]

Ideally I want to have a large enough reservoir above my sump that would hold enough water for a few days of evaporation. Would fill that from my ro/di via a manual valve plus a float valve to stop filling if I missed shutting off the manual valve. Probably put a small PH with venturi for circulation. From the reservoir I would gravity feed the sump via a simple humidifier float.

Until I get the above set up I've just hooked to ro/di directly to the sump via a mechanical (all plastic valve) which seems to be working okay for now.

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Mike

I am busy setting my 350G up at the moment with the (much appreciated!) help of a pal of mine who maintains and builds marine systems for a living. We have done the auto top-off a bit differently to the conventional way in order to minimise the places where equiptment can fail- just finished it off yesterday! The way it works is something like this....

Tap water piped thru 1/4" via a small in-line particle filter to RODI unit. Bfore RODI unit is a very expensive in-line solenoid, open when powered, closed without)
After RODI unit, small aqua medic dosing pump (the one with the rubber hose and the rotating cam- dont remember the model) then thru a non return valve and into Aqua Medic calc stirrer and into the sump.

A single float switch in the sump controls power to a seperate bank of plugs. When the level drops and activates the switch, it powers the solenoid and dosing pump, the solenoid allows water into the RO and the pump forces it thru the calc stirrer and doses the sump. (waste water from the RODI is dumped into a drain by 1/4" piping.)

The only weakness in this system is the dosing pump which has been prone to having the pipe burst and start to flood the room. I solved this by mounting the pump in a plastic receptacle on the wall with a hole drilled at the base and a pipe to the sump. ( A bit 'Heath Robinson', but looks like it'll do the job!)In the event of the pipe bursting, the sump still gets RODI water, and just misses out on the Calc.
If the solenoid fails, it - by definition- remains closed- no flooding!

By doing this I have eliminated the need for a RODI reservoir, extra float switches and another return pump to go between the reservoir and the sump. IMHO the KISS principle at work! My pal has never heard of this being done this way but can find no fault with my logic, although I'm sure that the smart folks on this forum probably will... :roll:

Andy

 

[Anonymous]

Mike, Look into a liter meter. IF you can find one used, it will be the best thing you'll buy your tank (besides water) I have one and won't ever set up a reef witout one.

Andy.
The way you have your top off set up, you'll kill your RO membrane. Really fast. There was a guy who had the same setup as you and killed his membrane in a few months. I'll look to see if I can find the link

B

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Bingo

Thanks for the input, this may sound a bit stupid, but why would I have any increased wear on the RO membrane? If I had done it the conventional way, tere would still be the same amount of water flow thru the membrane and the RODI unit is situated pretty much where it would be in the standard chain of automation....(Not being argumentative, just feeling a bit stupid!)

Andy

 

[das75]

Know ro/di are used on icemakers but read as well that short bursts through a unit can cause damage, so I asked about it from the supplier. Described using float valve for auto topoff and got back that units perform better with a more continuous flow and would see a higher TDS (nothing about damage). Put a query into Applied Membranes (ro membrane supplier) about same but yet to hear back.

My TDS is higher than when new (4 vs 2) but have had unit in use for about 7 months. Still better than my city tap water, TDS 168.

 

[Anonymous]

I set mine up just like you were talking about in the beginning.

I turn one valve and it starts filling a 20 gallon tank with RO water. That tank gravity drains to the sump through a simple float valve.


When the 20 gallon tank gets full the float valve controlling the influx of RO water turns the RO unit off.

I check it periodically while its filling and turn the main valve off. I would rather fill it all at once.


The best thing about the way I set it up is I can leave the house for a week and the 20 gallon will take care of replacing water. If I am going to be gone longer I just leave the RO unit on and while that isin't the best, it keeps the tank from running dry while I am away.



Now, if I could only get something to do the food like that.....