Hi All,
After upgrading my aquarium lighting from PC to Metal Halide, my 125G reef tank with 40G basement sump suffered about a 4 °F daily temperature swing. With the PC lighting I only had about a 2 °F swing.
To resolve this, I took a 10' piece of 1/4" stainless steel tubing and wound it around a piece of 4" pipe making a coil. After running poly tubing to and from the coil, I placed the coil in my sump pump crock in the basement where the water is always about 55°F. I used an Aqua Lifter pump to suck sea water out of my tank sump piped to the coil and emptying back in the tank sump. The flow is very slow, about 2 cups per minute but the water is chilled from 78° to 68°F. My heater in the sump will probably run a little more but my tank temperature is staying even at 78° +/- 1° day and night. I use my computer and an Allen Bradley PLC to track temperature, and control my tank parameters; MH lighting, powerheads, pumps, pH monitor, Calcium Reactor, LED Moon lighting, and red LED night viewing. This was really simple to do and I think it will provide enough cooling to avoid buying a chiller and paying more $$ to the Electric company! Next thing I will try is only running the cooling loop while the Metal Halides are on.....
After upgrading my aquarium lighting from PC to Metal Halide, my 125G reef tank with 40G basement sump suffered about a 4 °F daily temperature swing. With the PC lighting I only had about a 2 °F swing.
To resolve this, I took a 10' piece of 1/4" stainless steel tubing and wound it around a piece of 4" pipe making a coil. After running poly tubing to and from the coil, I placed the coil in my sump pump crock in the basement where the water is always about 55°F. I used an Aqua Lifter pump to suck sea water out of my tank sump piped to the coil and emptying back in the tank sump. The flow is very slow, about 2 cups per minute but the water is chilled from 78° to 68°F. My heater in the sump will probably run a little more but my tank temperature is staying even at 78° +/- 1° day and night. I use my computer and an Allen Bradley PLC to track temperature, and control my tank parameters; MH lighting, powerheads, pumps, pH monitor, Calcium Reactor, LED Moon lighting, and red LED night viewing. This was really simple to do and I think it will provide enough cooling to avoid buying a chiller and paying more $$ to the Electric company! Next thing I will try is only running the cooling loop while the Metal Halides are on.....