Ok here we go taking the plunge into the sump/fuge world. I have 55g 48" long 20" wide 12 1/2" deep I just purchased a 30g deep glass aquarium 24" long 12 1/4" 16 3/4" deep I am planing on getting plexi glass baffels cut at lowes. Any suggestions on how many how thick and placement would be welcome. I have an aquaclear 100 skimmer (I know) that I am planning on putting in and eventually upgrading. Thanks for the help
please help...first sump/fuge attempt
- Thread starter irish904
- Start date
it's up to you where you want to place the baffles.
i'm not sure that lowes has thick enough plexiglass though. i bought the thickest they had for my first attempt at a sump with refugium a while ago, and it bowed when i filled it. i would suggest glass. they'll cut it for you there as well, and it won't bow.
just remember, you'll need some space around the footprint of whatever skimmer you get, and then you'll want a decent sized refugium, so atleast 1 baffle in the beginning, then a series of baffles after the refugium to stop any bubbles from getting sucked back up the return.
also be aware that all evaporation will happen in the last compartment, where your return pump sits. unless you have an auto top-off, you'll need to have that big enough so it won't run dry if you can't get to it to refill it right away. depending on the climate where you are, your lighting, if your tank is topless or not, will all play a part in how fast that last chamber empties.
here is that first sump i attempted. the problem with it was, i had it opposite of what i am suggesting to you- the return was furthest from the tank. amazingly, i didn't get any bubbles in the tank unless i let the return area level go down alot, but it's better as i have illustrated in red.
the last baffle is raised up a bit so the water can run underneath it. the idea is the water will go to the bottom, but the bubbles will float up and never enter the return area.
you might even want to duplicate that last section, so that you have a series of raised and lowered baffles, if you have the room/patience/money for it.
if you click on my build thread below you'll see how i did the sump i use now. very simple, but then again, that return area is much larger, so i'm sure not to get bubbles.
hope that helps.
i'm not sure that lowes has thick enough plexiglass though. i bought the thickest they had for my first attempt at a sump with refugium a while ago, and it bowed when i filled it. i would suggest glass. they'll cut it for you there as well, and it won't bow.
just remember, you'll need some space around the footprint of whatever skimmer you get, and then you'll want a decent sized refugium, so atleast 1 baffle in the beginning, then a series of baffles after the refugium to stop any bubbles from getting sucked back up the return.
also be aware that all evaporation will happen in the last compartment, where your return pump sits. unless you have an auto top-off, you'll need to have that big enough so it won't run dry if you can't get to it to refill it right away. depending on the climate where you are, your lighting, if your tank is topless or not, will all play a part in how fast that last chamber empties.
here is that first sump i attempted. the problem with it was, i had it opposite of what i am suggesting to you- the return was furthest from the tank. amazingly, i didn't get any bubbles in the tank unless i let the return area level go down alot, but it's better as i have illustrated in red.
the last baffle is raised up a bit so the water can run underneath it. the idea is the water will go to the bottom, but the bubbles will float up and never enter the return area.
you might even want to duplicate that last section, so that you have a series of raised and lowered baffles, if you have the room/patience/money for it.
if you click on my build thread below you'll see how i did the sump i use now. very simple, but then again, that return area is much larger, so i'm sure not to get bubbles.
hope that helps.
I just put some photos into my DIY sump thread for you to see as well:
http://www.reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=112733
Cost about $25 and got everything at Home Depot.
I used plastic grates for lighting, GE lexan silicone and the baffles are made out of Lexan. The lexan is thin, but much stronger than plexiglass. The lexan bowed slightly in the middle until there was water on each side providing equal pressure.
All in all it was easy to do, built in one day and works great.
http://www.reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=112733
Cost about $25 and got everything at Home Depot.
I used plastic grates for lighting, GE lexan silicone and the baffles are made out of Lexan. The lexan is thin, but much stronger than plexiglass. The lexan bowed slightly in the middle until there was water on each side providing equal pressure.
All in all it was easy to do, built in one day and works great.
there is not equal pressure on each side of the baffle. it doesn't matter if the water level is all the way to the top of the baffle, there will still be more pressure against the side the water is coming from.
i'm also confused about your design. what is to stop the bubbles and macroalgae from entering the return chamber? eggcrate? the macros will get through that for sure, and so will the bubbles.
btw, Kasey, if i am right and you are having the macros enter the return area, you can get a sheet of mesh from walmart, in the yarn/crafts section. it's used to make quilts or something, but it's got alot smaller holes and you can zip tie it right to the eggcrate. i think it's about 2 dollars for a 12x 24 sheet.
i'm also confused about your design. what is to stop the bubbles and macroalgae from entering the return chamber? eggcrate? the macros will get through that for sure, and so will the bubbles.
btw, Kasey, if i am right and you are having the macros enter the return area, you can get a sheet of mesh from walmart, in the yarn/crafts section. it's used to make quilts or something, but it's got alot smaller holes and you can zip tie it right to the eggcrate. i think it's about 2 dollars for a 12x 24 sheet.
X:
Yeah, I didn't mean to say liteerally equal pressure, but enough "weight" from the water pushing on both sides to stop the lexan from bowing.
Thanks for the mesh info - I need something for it.
Is it like a screen door screen, but made out of plastic, like a needlepoint board?
Yeah, I didn't mean to say liteerally equal pressure, but enough "weight" from the water pushing on both sides to stop the lexan from bowing.
Thanks for the mesh info - I need something for it.
Is it like a screen door screen, but made out of plastic, like a needlepoint board?
there should be a series of baffles there IMO, not just 1. one baffle will separate the refugium from the return area, but not stop the microbubbles. i think it's pretty important to accomplish this.irish904":e473rv26 said:
to answer your question, one of the last baffles can be the same height as the rest, but if you install another baffle after that one, install it an inch or so higher than the one before it, so that the water will go under this last baffle, and the bubbles will stay at the surface.
I would use flex as well.
Just look at my photos in the link a few replies above:
You use hard pvc and put a tee at the return pump output with a ball valve on the side going back into the sump
You can put a ball valve on the sump inlet side but run it wide open - you only close it for service
Just look at my photos in the link a few replies above:
You use hard pvc and put a tee at the return pump output with a ball valve on the side going back into the sump
You can put a ball valve on the sump inlet side but run it wide open - you only close it for service
I used 1 5/8" for the line coming into the sump and 3/4" for the return.
The return tee is there to let water flow directly back into the sump. The return pump will be so strong that water will go back into the main tank faster than it will drain into the sump.
You "start" the overflow going and then turn on the return pump. You adjust the ball valve so that the water in and water out are at equal rates.
Does that make sense?
The return tee is there to let water flow directly back into the sump. The return pump will be so strong that water will go back into the main tank faster than it will drain into the sump.
You "start" the overflow going and then turn on the return pump. You adjust the ball valve so that the water in and water out are at equal rates.
Does that make sense?
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