Not exactly a chiller, but it works pretty good to keep temps down while lights are on and costs nothing to run.
Material:
-1 5' length 1/2" titanium tubing (www.mcmasterandcarr.com) $35
-2 1/2" bulkheads about $5 each @savko plastics
-32 QT rubbermaid box $3.99 @ HD
-Rigid insulation $10.69 for a full sheet (8'X4') @ HD... you won't need anywhere close to a full sheet, you can use what is left over under tanks, sumps, external pumps to reduce vibration.
Coil the titanium tubing using a pipe bender. Coiling it by hand is pretty hard and you will kink the tubing. You cannot completely remove any kinks and kinks are likely going to crack. Drill two 1 1/4" holes into the box and install your bulkheads. enclose the box with the rigid insulation, make sure you can still get the top off. Connect the titanium tubing to the bulkheads using plastic tubing. Mine is fed off of a bleeder valve from my main pump. This is better than adding another powerhead to you system to feed it. Run tank water through the titanium tubing. It only needs 50 to 100 GPH. Fill the box with ice and cold water. the titanium in the ice will transfer the heat that tends to accumulate in your tank while lights are on. Using this box on my 180 gallon has kept my chiller from having to run, except during the hottest months of the year. It is rather crude in design. You can pretty this up a bit by using acrylic, but this would increase the costs. Also, if you can't put ice in it, you can place a fan on top of the box blowing over the water surface and use evaporative cooling to keep the water in the box cool. If you use a bleeder line off of a pump in your system, this literally costs you nothing to run. As those of us who have chillers know, not only are real chillers expensive to purchase, but they are expensive to run as well. This will help keep it's run time down and only cost a little over $50 to make. If you need pics or help, please e-mail me. [email protected]
Material:
-1 5' length 1/2" titanium tubing (www.mcmasterandcarr.com) $35
-2 1/2" bulkheads about $5 each @savko plastics
-32 QT rubbermaid box $3.99 @ HD
-Rigid insulation $10.69 for a full sheet (8'X4') @ HD... you won't need anywhere close to a full sheet, you can use what is left over under tanks, sumps, external pumps to reduce vibration.
Coil the titanium tubing using a pipe bender. Coiling it by hand is pretty hard and you will kink the tubing. You cannot completely remove any kinks and kinks are likely going to crack. Drill two 1 1/4" holes into the box and install your bulkheads. enclose the box with the rigid insulation, make sure you can still get the top off. Connect the titanium tubing to the bulkheads using plastic tubing. Mine is fed off of a bleeder valve from my main pump. This is better than adding another powerhead to you system to feed it. Run tank water through the titanium tubing. It only needs 50 to 100 GPH. Fill the box with ice and cold water. the titanium in the ice will transfer the heat that tends to accumulate in your tank while lights are on. Using this box on my 180 gallon has kept my chiller from having to run, except during the hottest months of the year. It is rather crude in design. You can pretty this up a bit by using acrylic, but this would increase the costs. Also, if you can't put ice in it, you can place a fan on top of the box blowing over the water surface and use evaporative cooling to keep the water in the box cool. If you use a bleeder line off of a pump in your system, this literally costs you nothing to run. As those of us who have chillers know, not only are real chillers expensive to purchase, but they are expensive to run as well. This will help keep it's run time down and only cost a little over $50 to make. If you need pics or help, please e-mail me. [email protected]