• Why not take a moment to introduce yourself to our members?

meschaefer

One to Ignore
Location
Astoria
Rating - 100%
30   0   0
Do to the approach of summer, I like many have heat issues on the brain. On my old tank, I was able to keep the temperature pretty stable using fans blowing across my sump and in my hood and an Aquacontroler that
turned off lights and various pumps (i.e. to the skimmer) as the water temperature increased. Even on the hottest, humid day I was able to keep my tank temp within acceptable parameters (Acceptable to me at least).

My new tank has significantly more volume than the old, but due to using more efficient equipment has about the same amount of heat sources (measured by wattage) as my old 65 gallon. As such, I firmly believe that I can keep my tank cool using evaporative cooling. My new tank set up does pose some problems that make putting a fan across the sump and in the hood somewhat problematic.

First, I don't have a hood anymore, lights are suspended pendant style. Also, due to the large water volume (approaching 300 gallons), I really don't want to add any more humidity to my tank room than is necessary. It is humid enough in there without encouraging it (I have been able to somewhat solve this problem, but would like to keep the humidity down as much as possible). A chiller would be perfect, and may be the ultimate long term solution, but it is not in the cards at the moment.

I have been researching this out and have decided to make a cooling tower. The basic theory is that water is pumped to the top of a "tower" and allowed to free fall (Like a shower) through the tower. Air is pumped against the flow of water causing evaporation which removes heat. The resulting hot humid air would be vented outside. This is the same principal as blowing a fan across your sump or display tank, but it allows me to do so in a more efficient manner, and control venting.

The following link gives a simple explanation, they call it a "bong cooler" (go ahead and snicker)

A much more significant explanation of how cooling towers work, and their industrial uses (i.e. nuclear reactors), along with the science behind it can be found in short form here.


There are drawbacks and concerns with this type of system. But I think they can be overcome. It is not perfect, but I am looking for input, thoughts and ideas.
 

meschaefer

One to Ignore
Location
Astoria
Rating - 100%
30   0   0
They say a picture is worth a thousand words, how about a drawing. (please forgive my misspelling of "wye", I knew it didn't look right when I was drawing it out)

coolingtower.jpg
 

meschaefer

One to Ignore
Location
Astoria
Rating - 100%
30   0   0
The drain. The water within the tower will not be under any pressure, It may take a bit of fiddling to determine if I need some extra space at the bottom for the water to pool as it drains out. But I don't anticipate that the water will back up to the point that it even comes close to draining out the bottom wye.
 

Sean

Advanced Reefer
Location
Brooklyn
Rating - 100%
14   0   0
a few things to consider

I would put the fan on the top and suck the air out.
You may want to add another fan or two
how many gph are you expecting this to handle?
the water output will most likely need to be larger to handle the gph
 

meschaefer

One to Ignore
Location
Astoria
Rating - 100%
30   0   0
Not sure how many GPH I will pump through it. It will be feed from a plumbing manifold so I can easily vary the GPH. I will probably start out at about 300gph or so. It is easy enough to make the output a larger diameter.

Do you think that 1" should handle it, or should I go larger?

Thought of putting the Fan at the top, but the research so far indicates that it is more efficient to have the Fan at the bottom of the tower. Will go back to find out exactly why. Also by putting it at the top, I will be drawing wet salty air over the fan, which will significantly cut the life expectancy of the fan down.
 

latino277

Advanced Reefer
Location
Long Island
Rating - 100%
19   0   0
OK... lets consider a few changes I would change the to at 1/2" Jaco bulkhead. on the inside of the cap I would put another piece of hose down past the wye. The Drip plate would then move to the PVC body as well (below the top wye). this will stop any water from coming out of the top wye.

I would leave the exit as a 3/4 barb/bulk head... this way it can drain more that is put in.. or up it to a 1" barb...
 

latino277

Advanced Reefer
Location
Long Island
Rating - 100%
19   0   0
yeah... you want the fan on the bottom... it's easier for the fan to push air than pull air... and it will last longer. I like the insump Idea... But I don't have space for that...
 

meschaefer

One to Ignore
Location
Astoria
Rating - 100%
30   0   0
I am inclined to leave the top as 3/4 just because I already have a 3/4 output ready to go on my plumbing manifold, there is a ball valve on it so I can control the amount of flow reaching the cooling tower, so as not to provide more than the drain can handle. Which is also why I like the idea of increasing the size of the drain.

As to putting the drip plate below the Wye, I thought of that as well and had some concerns. The drip plate will most likely restrict the flow of the water, causing it to slightly pool above the drip plate. If the wye is above the drip plate and therefor the vent is above the drip plate, the pooling water and the drip plate itself will restrict the air flow from exiting the tower. By having the drip plate above the wye, and therefore above the vent, the drip plate will not be able to restrict the air flow.

It is inevitable that some water will be blown out of the cooling tower, most likely resulting in salt creep at the vent. This will need to be cleaned on a somewhat regular basis. Salinity will also need to be monitored a little more closely than normal as well.
 

meschaefer

One to Ignore
Location
Astoria
Rating - 100%
30   0   0
I like the insump Idea... But I don't have space for that...

This is a concept that I looked at when I had my 65g. At that time, I had thought about integrating one of these systems into the plumbing running from the overflow into the sump. At least the way I envisioned it, it wouldn't be that hard to do.

I will draw it out later today and post it into this thread.
 
Location
Huntington
Rating - 100%
26   0   0
Sean, I'm with you as far as pulling air instead of pushing it up the entire tube. My only concern would be the type of fan since most would rust out or corrode very qyuickly with all the salty humidity from the evaporation.
 

meschaefer

One to Ignore
Location
Astoria
Rating - 100%
30   0   0
I forgot to address Sean's idea of putting more fans on it.

I have been throwing around this idea, in order to get more air through the tube. My initial idea was to have multiple wyes, with a fan on each one. I could have the controller programed to turn each one on separately as the temp increased. The problem with that idea, is that unless all of the fans where on at the same time, I think the air would exit out one of the other inputs, as opposed to traveling up the tube to the vent.

The other option is to have multiple fans stacked on top of each other at the single input wye. Would this actually work?

The largest 4 inch fan I can find without dropping down a couple hundred on a fan is 135 cubic foot per minute.
 

ming

LE Coral Killer
Location
Flushing, NY
Rating - 100%
272   0   0
Have you considered the noise as an issue?
I'd imagine a 4" fan pushing 135CPM would be making a high pitched whirling sound, and add to that the sound of water splashing in a hollow tube echoing around your home sounding like a water fall.
 

meschaefer

One to Ignore
Location
Astoria
Rating - 100%
30   0   0
Have you considered the noise as an issue?
I'd imagine a 4" fan pushing 135CPM would be making a high pitched whirling sound, and add to that the sound of water splashing in a hollow tube echoing around your home sounding like a water fall.

Noise is not an issue. This will be housed in a dedicated fish room, in the basement of my house.

At least I hope it will not be an issue....
 
Location
Huntington
Rating - 100%
26   0   0
I was actually playing with this idea and was thinking of a few smaller fans on one of those PVC fittings with multiple pipes. Was also thinking (since I am also into computers but not enough to actually water cool my setup) that a small radiator drilled through a chunk of acrylic and placed through the side of the top of the chamber would act as a good way to cool the water before it falls. So it contacts the radiator buried in acrylic as the drip plate. The radiator can use a thermal fluid to help with the cooling and the longer drop increases contact with the cooler air. Was just playing with the idea, but the longer drop may reduce the need for more fans.
 

Sean

Advanced Reefer
Location
Brooklyn
Rating - 100%
14   0   0
I would recommend making the output 1"
I would put a second fan on it and not worry about air coming through the other fan hole and yes your going to have to have them both go on and off by the same controller (you are planning to have a temperature controller on this).
you may also want to think about increasing the air contact time inside the 4" tube. Using bio balls, screens or something. The downfall of this idea is you may want to have access to clean it every so often. The increased contact time will make a huge difference in the cooling ability.
 

meschaefer

One to Ignore
Location
Astoria
Rating - 100%
30   0   0
I was actually playing with this idea and was thinking of a few smaller fans on one of those PVC fittings with multiple pipes. Was also thinking (since I am also into computers but not enough to actually water cool my setup) that a small radiator drilled through a chunk of acrylic and placed through the side of the top of the chamber would act as a good way to cool the water before it falls. So it contacts the radiator buried in acrylic as the drip plate. The radiator can use a thermal fluid to help with the cooling and the longer drop increases contact with the cooler air. Was just playing with the idea, but the longer drop may reduce the need for more fans.

If you look at the thread that I linked to on RC, he has the tower filled with peices of PVC and Acrylic in order to increase the surface area and to cause the water to splash, both of wich should help with evaporation and therefore heat removal. Technically this is referred to by the ever orginial name as FILL. On some of the other threads I saw, people where using bioballs, and a nylon pads for the same purpose.

Deltec makes a commercial version of a cooling tower, called the eco-chiller. Theirs is more of a cooling box, filled with nylon fill to help with evaporation.

My concern is nitrates. As a result, I am trying to make it as tall as I can. I have about 5 foot to work with. I figure the longer fall, should alleviate the need for fill. I could be wrong.
 
Location
Huntington
Rating - 100%
26   0   0
You could also make a second tube attached to the first, essentially the same design, and both dumping into a common reservoir at the bottom, but the second would just be for recirculating, increasing the pull down where higher temps are an issue.
 

Sponsor Reefs

We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.

Click here to sponsor $10:


Top