Building a manifold

[ECFENCING]

Seeking some input on building a manifold for my new sump....

I am looking to eliminate the pumps that feed

a) BRS reactors 1 for carbon and 1 for GFO
b) Possibly UV Sterilizer 25w to be plumbed at a later point in time

At the end of the day I might save $5 in electricity a month but I'm looking to try something new and wanted to see if any other users have problems customizing the flow to the phosban and carbon reactors with a manifold.

I've been looking at some threads notably Grunding5's AO 100g thread and autoponics sump thread and wanted input on which way would be more beneficial.

Autoponics has the return t'd off with a union and regular home depot/lowes ball valves your standard garden variety ball valves and grunding 5 had it t'd off with cepex true union valve and chained in other cepex true union valves.



My question are as follows:

Is another valve necessary before the manifold? Will it allow for more customization of flow? Opening or closing one in series will affect the other valves

Also are the needle valves by hayward the better way to go instead of the cepex valves or the regular ball valves? The problem I have with these needle valves is that you can't visually determine how open or closed the valve is since it is circular.

I was planning on using an ATB Airstar 1500 to replace my Eheim 1262. I basically get 600gph more at roughly the same wattage or should I just stick with the 1262?


Here are some links:

Needle Valve but it's super expensive

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/Plumb...ayward-Needle-Valves/c14_15_16_113/index.html

I don't need the few drops per minute accuracy for the phosban and carbon reactors but they are low flow low pressure items.

Cepex True Union Valve a little bit more reasonable

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/Plumbing-and-Pumps-Schedule-80-Plumbing-Schedule-80-Valves-Schedule-80-Ball-Valves/c14_15_16_17/p64/%C2%BE%E2%80%9D-Heavy-Duty-Cepex-True-Union-Ball-Valve/product_info.html

grundig's thread on manifold

http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/tank-threads/43054-ao-100g.html

Autoponics thread on manifold/sump

http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum...7500-woohoo-new-sump-skimmer-return-pump.html

Thanks in advance for your input.

 

[Bob 1000]

If you have a sump I have used a natural syphon for running both carbon reactor and phosban in the past.. Try it..

 

[ClosetFishGeek]

How are you buddy......I built my new system with a manifold that feeds 2 tanks, gfo, carbon reactor, calcium reactor.....and so on all with one pump. Check it out. http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/tank-threads/64544-here-we-go-again-500gallon-build.html This will give you a little detail on how it was done. I would not use a needle valve to controll my main pump. A good quality ball valve/true union is the way to go. Ohh and before I forget the overflows are working perfectly...:splitspin Thanks for your input on them. Call me if you need any help with it.

Thane

 

[NYreefNoob]

HERE IS HOW I DID MINE AND I RUN RETURN, PHOS REACTOR AND CAL REACTOR AND HAVE ONE MORE PORT I CAN USE IF NEEDED

http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/tank-threads/62814-73-gallon-set-up-7-17-09-a-2.html

 

[ecvernon]

im tagging along. ill be building a manifold also. i was just going to try and order all of my plumbing needs from one place..
http://www.savko.com/PartList.asp?pictures=&pgid=1

 

[juiceguy]

i use a simple T from my return line into a regular ball valve, the cepex true union valve gives you more ease for maintenance since you can just close the valve and unscrew the union.

here is manifold
http://www.flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Manifolds

 

[jrobbins]

Josh (grundig) had a pretty crazy setup. you definitely don't need to go as highend as he did, but all the unions do make life easier if you need to shuffle things around. you can also use vinyl tubing and then dont have to deal with all the union valves...

as for the brs media reactors, i think they use an odd sized tubing (almost like ro tubing). i have no idea how you will find the right fittings to run them off a manifold...

 

[ECFENCING]

Thanks everyone for the input....Bob 1000 I thought about placing a t off of one of my drains but figured I would have more control by placing a t on the return line.

Thane: thanks..your tank is looking great. Glad the overflow is working and thanks for the link as well.

jrrobbins: I think I am going to get some cepex valves anyway they are like "butta"

Nyroofnoob: Hope your tank is coming along well and juiceguy thanks for that manifold link.....

 

[18oreefer]

Tagging along as well. Looks like ill be building a 5 port manifold for the 300. Just picked up a 60 gal sump so plumbing is next. lmk on the ph monitor. Good luck with your build.

 

[noelskii]

so when this manifold is not being used, wouldn't the return be too strong or if it is being used; the return is too weak?

 

[ECFENCING]

Noelski

Yes some of that water will be diverted to the reactors

I'm considering an ATB airstar 1500 gph pump to account for some of that loss but I don't think I will need it since I am not relying on the return pump to create flow in my tank

 

[fernandokng]

I need one too. Someone, make me one! lol

good luck

 

[ECFENCING]

I've talked to Bulk reefsupply and aquatic Eco systems and the recommendation is ball valve for carbon and gate valve for phosban for better control

Not sure it really makes a difference whether I use the Gate valve on the phosban or not so please report back if you are satisfied with the ball valve adjustment for your phosban.

Since carbon requires more flow which one would you put first in line?

Wouldn't you want phosban first so that the carbon can catch any fines from the GFO or would you place carbon first and have the phosban output dump into a filter sock?

 

[autoponicz]

looks like you got it planned out...you know the basic layout of a manifold...now you can make it fancy with high quality valves and fittings..or have it very basic...i would use gate valves on all of the outputs for its ease to fine tune and ease of turning the knob....now the only thing that i didnt like with a manifold was when i adjusted 1 valve...it throws off the rest...including the flow going into the display..after you set everything where you want it...you wont have to adjust the valves for a long time unless you change the amount of media in the reactors..besides that...it had worked well for me.

 

[ClosetFishGeek]

looks like you got it planned out...you know the basic layout of a manifold...now you can make it fancy with high quality valves and fittings..or have it very basic...i would use gate valves on all of the outputs for its ease to fine tune and ease of turning the knob....now the only thing that i didnt like with a manifold was when i adjusted 1 valve...it throws off the rest...including the flow going into the display..after you set everything where you want it...you wont have to adjust the valves for a long time unless you change the amount of media in the reactors..besides that...it had worked well for me.

+1

I understand why people use the gate valve however, I have had no problem getting the right flow though my ball valves

 

[juiceguy]

it is easier IMO to use separate valves for each canister. GFO requires a much slower flow vs carbon that usually gets a higher flow. gate valves are nice but overkill for this application.

 

[leeit2me]

here is my manifold setup. was tired of having multiple pumps running my reactors. So, grab some egg crates and nylon zip ties and PVC pipes and came up with this. I have a via aqua 1300 pump feeding to 2 reactors and 3rd for future use(just plugged up for now). I hung it on one of my bafflers plates it's close to the upper column water in the sump.

I use the valves that came with the reactors to control the flow. Very simple.. K.I.S.S... lol..