DIY Cabinet Doors
- Thread starter pmoneyt
- Start date
- Location
- Greenpoint Brooklyn, NY
painted or stained wood?
There are a bunch of carpenters info sites out there on how to make cabinet doors. It all depends on how fancy and what you have access to tool wise. I can always give you a list pretty much of what to do with the tools you have.
I have a catalog from these guys upstate somewhere that charge pennies for custom doors. comes out anywhere from 30-50$ a door for 2 sq ft. You can do it materials only for cheaper but once you put your time into it your gonna end up paying double.
There are a bunch of carpenters info sites out there on how to make cabinet doors. It all depends on how fancy and what you have access to tool wise. I can always give you a list pretty much of what to do with the tools you have.
I have a catalog from these guys upstate somewhere that charge pennies for custom doors. comes out anywhere from 30-50$ a door for 2 sq ft. You can do it materials only for cheaper but once you put your time into it your gonna end up paying double.
tosiek i have all the tools and i was thinking for just getting them built but it will take 12 days for 12 doors and the shipping is almost 100 after that cost of the doors. i figure one day and i can cut and glue and stain the next day
- Location
- Greenpoint Brooklyn, NY
Monday when i get back to work Asianer.
Pmoneyt, If you can shape down the wood to what you need and have a router table any of the amana door router sets like this will work to quickly get 12 doors made. Its gonna cost you 150$ unless you know someone with a set.
http://www.amanatool.com/routerbits/historical-shaker-door-bits.html
Comes with the bit for the raised panel, and the stiles and rails. All you need to do is shape the stiles and rails, and glue together the center panels before you rout the shape on them.
If you want something simpler and can go with a flat inset panel in the middle, you can make a basic shaker door. Then all you would need is some solid wood for the stiles and rails and 1/4 or 1/8" MDF w/ veneer or ply for the center panel. Ply that thin isn't always flat and has a tendancy to bow and warp later on which might warp the doors in the long run.
I would cut out a notch for the thickness of the panel on the inside of the stiles and put it together that way. And you can add a molding to the middle that you can buy from dykes lumber or home depot, although your gonna be limited to pine, poplar, oak and maybe a few other woods if your lucky. And your going to nail the molding to the stiles and rails not the center panel. Otherwise there is a good chance the doors will warp when the wood expands/contracts.
Or you can cut out the inside corner and install a square stop molding after you place the center panel in as you would with glass doors. It just forces you to make small ~1/4" x 1/4" pieces of wood that you need to nail on the inside of the doors.
Just remember:
- make the verticles longer and size the doors after they are dry. Make acceptances in the sizes for that like 1/16".
- make the center panel ~1/8" smaller than what you notched out for it, giving you 1/32-1/16 of room on each side for the wood to expand and contract.
- you want the center panel snug front to back on the framing, and loose up/down left/right if that makes sense.
- Only glue the connections for the framing your making, not the center panel and use yellow carpenters glue
- the wood is going to dry and maybe warp after planing it and shaping it. Depending on the wood, i usually let the shaped material sit and dry spaced out for a day before assembling the doors.
There is also a cool little toy called spaceballs that helps the center panel from clattering from it beeing too loose in the door.
Pmoneyt, If you can shape down the wood to what you need and have a router table any of the amana door router sets like this will work to quickly get 12 doors made. Its gonna cost you 150$ unless you know someone with a set.
http://www.amanatool.com/routerbits/historical-shaker-door-bits.html
Comes with the bit for the raised panel, and the stiles and rails. All you need to do is shape the stiles and rails, and glue together the center panels before you rout the shape on them.
If you want something simpler and can go with a flat inset panel in the middle, you can make a basic shaker door. Then all you would need is some solid wood for the stiles and rails and 1/4 or 1/8" MDF w/ veneer or ply for the center panel. Ply that thin isn't always flat and has a tendancy to bow and warp later on which might warp the doors in the long run.
I would cut out a notch for the thickness of the panel on the inside of the stiles and put it together that way. And you can add a molding to the middle that you can buy from dykes lumber or home depot, although your gonna be limited to pine, poplar, oak and maybe a few other woods if your lucky. And your going to nail the molding to the stiles and rails not the center panel. Otherwise there is a good chance the doors will warp when the wood expands/contracts.
Or you can cut out the inside corner and install a square stop molding after you place the center panel in as you would with glass doors. It just forces you to make small ~1/4" x 1/4" pieces of wood that you need to nail on the inside of the doors.
Just remember:
- make the verticles longer and size the doors after they are dry. Make acceptances in the sizes for that like 1/16".
- make the center panel ~1/8" smaller than what you notched out for it, giving you 1/32-1/16 of room on each side for the wood to expand and contract.
- you want the center panel snug front to back on the framing, and loose up/down left/right if that makes sense.
- Only glue the connections for the framing your making, not the center panel and use yellow carpenters glue
- the wood is going to dry and maybe warp after planing it and shaping it. Depending on the wood, i usually let the shaped material sit and dry spaced out for a day before assembling the doors.
There is also a cool little toy called spaceballs that helps the center panel from clattering from it beeing too loose in the door.
Last edited:
- Location
- Greenpoint Brooklyn, NY
This guy Lonnie Bird, don't know who he is really, has a really good video showing exactly what to do. I always see it playing in a hardware place i buy my amana bits from. Its for the raised panel doors and can;t find it online but this is the shaker flat panel door video using the rabbit bit.
http://www.amanatool.com/lonnie_instile_video.html
http://www.amanatool.com/lonnie_instile_video.html
- Location
- poughquag, ny
also home depot sells cabinet doors
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