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asianer

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Chelsea, NY
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Just wondering if anyone had any advice or suggestions before I prime and glue the plumbing together...
 

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TheDumbSter

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Queens
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hey looks good to me. I started with all pipes going str8 down, then as i started adding things like micro sock and pumps i had to adjust and add elbows and 45 angels, Y joint, check valve, and from the looks of it you dont have a check valve... Better go get one!!!
 

rkaragozler

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Location
Staten Island
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I personally would not put a valve on the drain, and are you going to have access all the time in the back, if not i would put the valve for the return lower, if possible I would try to use 45 degree elbows, you will have less head loss, (2 45 = 1 90)
 

beerfish

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from the looks of it you dont have a check valve... Better go get one!!!

Why would you need a check valve? Many have metal springs in them and can rust over time. The drain doesn't need a check valve, unless gravity fails (in which case there are bigger issues), and a siphon break (a small hole drilled below the water line) eliminates the need for one on the return.

Otherwise it looks good, just make sure you can access and fully turn the ball valves.

One suggestion I would consider is adding an outlet for expansion. simply add a T and use a cap or a ball valve at the end. If you choose to create a manifold or want a water change drain later, it becomes much easier to add it on.
 

asianer

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Location
Chelsea, NY
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I personally would not put a valve on the drain, and are you going to have access all the time in the back, if not i would put the valve for the return lower, if possible I would try to use 45 degree elbows, you will have less head loss, (2 45 = 1 90)

Thank you, I will try the 45 degree elbows for the return.
 

asianer

Advanced Reefer
Location
Chelsea, NY
Rating - 100%
35   0   0
Why would you need a check valve? Many have metal springs in them and can rust over time. The drain doesn't need a check valve, unless gravity fails (in which case there are bigger issues), and a siphon break (a small hole drilled below the water line) eliminates the need for one on the return.

Otherwise it looks good, just make sure you can access and fully turn the ball valves.

One suggestion I would consider is adding an outlet for expansion. simply add a T and use a cap or a ball valve at the end. If you choose to create a manifold or want a water change drain later, it becomes much easier to add it on.

I will research siphon break, thanks for all your suggestions!
 

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