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TonyHNY

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I just want to share my experience with everyone about my Rapid Led Kit. I have absolutely no experience in building a LED light. So if you are thinking about building one on your own and have some reservations, just read a bit and go forward with it. The lighting is amazing! It really brings out the colors of the corals in a unique way.

I bought the 24 bulb kit with 2 heat sinks (drilled and tapped) to replace my 250 W metal Halide. At 3 watts a piece, I should only use around 72W of electricity plus very minimal heat....

If you suck at soldering like me, it is OK. You'll learn and figure it out. That's what DIYers do? right? And since I am not a pro at this, I dont expect my fixture to be pretty either :) Here's a quick summary of the VERY important lessons to learn:

The DO's and DON'T's:

1) Get a nice soldering iron if you can affoid one. The crap I got from Radioshack gave me more frustration if anything. If your solder is not sticking, chances are, the iron is not hot enough. I ended up buying a Weller Station (off Ebay for 130 free shipping and no tax). Had I known about this earlier in my life, I would have bought one without any hesistation. You power the switch on and less than a minute, you are ready to solder! With heat adjusted to around 600F, it took less than 45 seconds to heat up... With this temp, your solder will adhere on the star board a lot quicker solving the non-sticking issues that many beginners experienced like me.

2) Be very patient....it will take some time to do it. It is not like a CFL or T5 with some wires to connect..you'll have to solder quite a lot.. If you get a hand of soldering, then you are in good shape. At this time, after doing over 36 LEDs and over 100 connections, I am getting less shaky doing it. Remember to open the windows with lots of circulation - your house will stink :)

3) After you are done soldering (assuming that the joints are good...you should look to see what a good joint should look like...), IF you have a multi meter, see if you are shorting it against the heat plate. THIS is my $75 dollar learning experience since it shorted 12 of my bulbs. What you do is run to see if there's any conductivity between the heat sink and EACH of the connections on the star plate. If there's no conductivity, then you may be OK. In my case, the star boards were screwed down to the heat sink, there's no much clearance between the screws and terminals.

4) DON'T plug the driver in and "test" the bulbs without firmly connecting the wires. Firmly means, not using my fingers to hold it and use my toe to plug it in. That's my $30 mistake and it shorted out 6 of my bulbs. Always solder and connect all wires before plugging it in...

5) lastly, if the solder comes lose while "testing", AVOID using your natural instincts to reconnect it while it is plugged in.

6) LED bulbs are very unforgiving with the above violations....just keep this in mind. But once you can get it running, I am sure that you'll be amazed too.

if you follow the above steps, I think you can avoid some of the mishaps. And finally, if you buy these kits from Rapid LED, Mike is VERY supportive. I really enjoy the experience of building one and when I can power this thing up and running, I will post some pictures.
 
D

DA fisherman

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Thanks for the info...I was thinking about ordering from them.......


Sent from Mr. Fix your fins or get your fins fix :)
 

TonyHNY

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I may be slightly embarassed with my setup :splitspin I'll post some pictures tonight. Please dont laugh at my soldering abilities because I have none :tongue1:

Last night, it took me 30 mins to solder 6 bulbs...But that's after doing many tries with the first set. If you are good at soldering, the entire project to get the lights running for 24 bulbs should be around 2 hours or less? How you will mount it on the tank is just another project. For me, I built like a wooden thing (like a rail) that is 4 inches above my tank. Along the heat sinks, I screwed a peice of the wood that will lean on top of the wood rail. Let me take some pictures tonight to show you.


Thanks for posting. If you could, please post some pics of your finished project. About how long did it take to complete the light?
 

chinatown

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Queens
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Whoa, a $130 soldering Iron is way overkill. A $20 30Watt one from Radioshack/HomeDepot would suffice. The reason it's hard to heat up the Cree Star is because the heat is transferring to the heat sink when you put the iron on it. It's best and easier to add a little bit of solder onto the connections first.

sound advice though.

but if you can't solder for ****, they make solderless connections now. way easier.
 
Last edited:

tosiek

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When i was building my actinic strips I pre tinned both the wires and my contact points on the stars. Made everything much much easier both in final soldering and layout of the star direction. I would just tap the tire to the star point and be done.

Also, I had a hard time soldering to the stars mainly because there was a thin coating on the pre tinned star points on some of the LED's from Rapidled. It wasn't because the iron wasn't hot enough. Something to keep in mind.
 

TonyHNY

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Jamaica, NY
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Definitely consider doing it. Their kits are VERY complete and you just have to buy the heatsinks and Fans. The precut wires didn't work for me since I was spacing the bulbs out more. So you may need to get some wires yourself. If that's the case, make sure you have some wire cutters...


Thanks for the info...I was thinking about ordering from them.......


Sent from Mr. Fix your fins or get your fins fix :)
 
D

DA fisherman

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Wait you telling me that the kit they have for $445.00 does not come with a heat sink or fan!!!!!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Reefs
 

TonyHNY

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Jamaica, NY
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I tried soldering with my radio shack iron and nothing would stick to the star contact. When I set the ironing station to 600F, it floated right on to the point and stick. In my case, it was definitely a temperature issue..

When i was building my actinic strips I pre tinned both the wires and my contact points on the stars. Made everything much much easier both in final soldering and layout of the star direction. I would just tap the tire to the star point and be done.

Also, I had a hard time soldering to the stars mainly because there was a thin coating on the pre tinned star points on some of the LED's from Rapidled. It wasn't because the iron wasn't hot enough. Something to keep in mind.
 

ming

LE Coral Killer
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Sad to say, I had the same exact experience, on both counts!
In my case, The excess solder went to the edge of the star, and the side of the stars are metal which are conductive to the heatsink. :(

3) After you are done soldering (assuming that the joints are good...you should look to see what a good joint should look like...), IF you have a multi meter, see if you are shorting it against the heat plate. THIS is my $75 dollar learning experience since it shorted 12 of my bulbs. What you do is run to see if there's any conductivity between the heat sink and EACH of the connections on the star plate. If there's no conductivity, then you may be OK. In my case, the star boards were screwed down to the heat sink, there's no much clearance between the screws and terminals.

4) DON'T plug the driver in and "test" the bulbs without firmly connecting the wires. Firmly means, not using my fingers to hold it and use my toe to plug it in. That's my $30 mistake and it shorted out 6 of my bulbs. Always solder and connect all wires before plugging it in...
 

TonyHNY

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Location
Jamaica, NY
Rating - 100%
32   0   0
There are two problems with the solderless connections for me...First, it is $1.50 more which is an addition $36 for me setup... However, the second issue is what killed it for me.. "Cannot be used with lenses "

yea, the $130 for a iron is an overkill, but it makes soldering so much easier for me. There are a few other non-reef projects I had in mind for... I have the $20 iron from Radioshack too and by comparison, the Weller station is probably the tool that kept me going. It heats up fast, temperature control..and you know exactly when you can start and PLUS more importantly... and I kept saying to myself..."if I dont finish this project and give up now, I wasted $130 for a iron" :tongue1:


Whoa, a $130 soldering Iron is way overkill. A $20 30Watt one from Radioshack/HomeDepot would suffice. The reason it's hard to heat up the Cree Star is because the heat is transferring to the heat sink when you put the iron on it. It's best and easier to add a little bit of solder onto the connections first.

sound advice though.

but if you can't solder for ****, they make solderless connections now. way easier.
 

TonyHNY

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Location
Jamaica, NY
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Thanks a lot! you didn't share YOUR embarassing moments with everyone :splitspin
You could of saved me a lot of money haha



Sad to say, I had the same exact experience, on both counts!
In my case, The excess solder went to the edge of the star, and the side of the stars are metal which are conductive to the heatsink. :(
 

TonyHNY

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Location
Jamaica, NY
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if you get the Rapid Led kits, they are quite simple. If you dont mind soldering and you have a good eye sight, it is a series connection... you just start linking them up going from + to - to + to -..... He has a PDF instruction sheet that you can ask for it. The wiring concept is very easy and simple. I didn't get the Dimmable one, so I can't say much about that...

in my experience, when I started to screw things up, the entire series of bulbs were burnt out...so extra bulbs wont really help much. If you are REALLY worrying, start out small and see if you like it yourself. You are already many steps ahead of me since you dont mind soldering. I did it on my smaller tank with 24 LEDs and since I burnt out 6, I will be running 18 Leds on a 24x20x14 tank.

Thanks for the write up Tony. I am defi looking to go this route. I don't mind soldering. Just worried about screwing up some connections. I guess it would be prudent to buy a few extra LEDs if in case you screwed a couple up.
 

TonyHNY

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Location
Jamaica, NY
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Here's a photo i actually had on my phone....The second heatsink is not on yet...I will take more pics tonight..


I will be surrounding the sides with Acrylics (painted black) from HD. That's another learning experience...hahaha Cutting them was a pain...
 

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