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Hello,

This is my first time ever posting something informational versus a question on Manhattan Reefs.

I wanted to potentially help those people who can't easily get plumbing parts (because living in Manhattan without a car can make it a huge challenge).

If you are building your first ever sump here is a list of things you should purchase so you can easily assemble your sump in less than 2 days versus the 2 months it took me.

What you can order online:
(I used Marine Depot)


1. DANNER MAG-DRIVE SUPREME 5 500 GPH WATER PUMP $75 (This pumps your water from the sump tank back up to the top of your tank- you may get the 700 GPH unit if your sump tank / display tank is larger)

2. U- TUBE WITH DIRECTIONAL RETURN 3/4 INCH to 1 INCH $7.99 (This is the Return piece that hangs over the edge of the tank the U shape is what makes it hug the tank corner. Consider drilling a small hole in the plastic part of the U that is in the tank side. This little hole will provide a siphon break in the event your pump fails)

3. PLASTIC HOSE CLAMP 3/4 INCH .50 (Get about 10 of these - very useful and cheap for extra assurance)

4. TEFLON TAPE - 1/2 INCH X 520 INCH ROLL $1.59 (Going to be used to make your "screw" connections - also makes it so you can more easily unscrew these parts later if you ever disassemble)

5. 3/4 INCH BLACK FLEXIBLE VINYL TUBING / 6 FEET $10.74 (This should be enough if your tube is any longer you are going to really reduce the amount of water your pump can push back into your tank)

6. 1-1/4 INCH KINK-FREE CORRUGATED REINFORCED BLACK TUBING / 3 FEET $6. (I'm currently using it to fit over my protein skimmer output - will be useful for aiming your skimmer return directly into the baffle in your sump)

7. 1-1/2 INCH KINK-FREE CORRUGATED REINFORCED BLACK TUBING / 6 FEET $13.14 (This hose fits over the nipple of your overflow box. If you know your overflow box has a smaller nipple you can just buy the 1-1/4 inch above. Regardless this hose moves water from your overflow box down to the "intake" of your sump.

8. TWO LITTLE FISHIES BALL VALVE W/ HOSE BARBS FOR 3/4? (12.7 MM) I.D. TUBING - (1 PER PACK) 1 $4.79 (I'm using this on the intake line of my protein skimmer as additional control of how much water the skimmer takes in - it's optional and not required to run the sump)

9. PLASTIC HOSE CLAMP 1/2 INCH $.80 (These are really useful for clamping together your electrical wires making the wiring around your sump tidy.)

10. SWING CHECK VALVE - 1/2 INCH FPT X 1/2 INCH FPT $19.49 (If you are using the pump above this valve connects to the pump and will be a life saver in the event the power or your pump fails. Essentially this stops water from backing down into your sump from the display tank - very much worth the $20)

11. NIPPLE FITTING - 1/2 INCH MPT X 1/2 INCH MPT 2 $1.40 (Once you screw the swing check valve onto the pump you'll screw this piece onto the other side of the swing check valve. Which will allow you to now screw on your.

12. 1/2 INCH x 1/2 INCH FEMALE BALL VALVE $7 (From the step in part 11 above you will now be able to screw this onto the other end of the swing check valve. This part allows you to manually control water flow back from the display tank or water going up to the display tank from the pump for that matter. Take the remaining nipple fitting from part 11 and screw it into the other female socket of your female ball vale. Your 3/4 inch hose easily fits over this now.

13. 200 MICRON FILTER SOCK $5 (this socks slips over the 1 1/2 (or 1 1/14) sump intake hose coming down from the display tank. It catches a ton of debris. You should consider some form of clamp, PVC tube, or even a cylindrical tube material around the home [I'm using an ice tea cannister] which will nicely hold the sock in place so the water flow doesn't push the sock off the hose.)

14. HAGEN FLUVAL FILTER FOAM BLOCK $6 (this foam block should be cut to fit and places in between your baffles in your sump. It offers another place to catch debris also stops the micro bubble problem in your sump.)

Total thus far - Approximately $150 with shipping.

Other parts you need:

You'll need the sump tank itself, glass to make the baffles in your sump tank, an overflow box (if you don't have a hole drilled in your display tank). I wont go into any of this here as there are several models of skimmers, sump tank designs, or even the argument of using a overflow box vs. drilling holes in your tank.

Depending on if you build the tank yourself or buy it. This could run you about $100 - $300 depending on size, used vs. new, DIY, etc.

You should consider:

A protein skimmer and if you plan to build a refugium - live rock (or lava rock), live sand, macro algae, crushed coral, an electric socket timer and some form of clip on light to hang over the refugium. (Search: Macro-Glo Adjustable Refugium Light on Marine Depot.com - you'd be wiser to look around at local pet stores and home supplies stores. You can get this part for about $20)

The skimmer can range wildly in price based on size, used vs. new etc. As for everything else I purchased 20 pounds of lava rock for my sump, the timer, the macro alage, the lighting, live sand, and 3 pounds of crushed coral for $90 at Pacific Aquarium & Plant 46 on Delancey St New York, NY. The skimmer itself could range from $75 - $300 easily.

Well there it is - a fully functioning sump tank with all the bells and whistles. Price tag ranges from about $300 - $700 based on how elaborate you want the equipment to be.

I hope you find this summary of all the parts to be useful as I had to go through all of this the past three months figuring out each little piece and part one step at a time. It was massively frustrating - costly - and at times nearly had me out of this hobby. Hopefully this guide will help other beginners know very specifically all the little parts, their costs, and places to purchase them more accurately right from the start.

Good Luck & other more experienced members please feel to add anything that I may have missed off.

Regards,
Roy
 

strgazr27

Advanced Reefer
Location
Kings Park, NY
Rating - 100%
123   0   0
Nice write up Roy but ditch the check valve, ESPECIALLY if it cannot be taken apart and cleaned out from time to time. I can show more instances of them doing more harm than good. When they hang open (And they do) it's not going to do anything. Best option is to drill a small hole at the top of your return piping JUST at the water level or slightly above it. This can also be done in Loc-Line style returns also. As soon as the return pump stops the siphon is broken and you have nothing to worry about ;) Fool proof really.
 

NYreefNoob

Skimmer Freak
Location
poughquag, ny
Rating - 99.4%
168   1   0
these things will vary and some extra pending how you do the plumbing will be needed and other stuff not needed. but nice initial list of stuff. now we just need a pic of what you did
 

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