Understanding Filtration

[Esquire1977a]

Hello, I am new to the forums, and I am also new to aquarium systems. With that said, I do not understand how the filtration works exactly. I have bought many items for an aquarium, but I have yet to buy the aquarium. I have one in mind, though.

The aquarium in mind is an acrylic 72" x 24" x 24" 185 gallon with two trapezoid overflows, with stand and canopy. For a sump, I have already purchased an Aqueon Proflex Model 4. What I don't understand is where the return hose will go from the sump back to the aquarium. I am virtually at a loss with the sump as well, as the sump has two water intake attachments. In essence, I don't know if hoses will come from the existing overflows from the main tank to the sump. What confuses me more after that is how the return hose/s will go back to the main tank.

For lighting, I bought 6 AI Vega Color kits. Is that too much light?

I plan to have a reef/fish capable system at some point.

If anyone understands my post, and has any help, please reply.

:thanks:

 

[fishman1069]

Welcome to the forum and the hobby. Its a great and rewarding hobby but it can be a huge drain on your time and wallet if you dont research everything before you buy. There is a wealth of info on here and the search feature can help a lot.
To answer one of your questions, the return line will come off of a pump that you need to get that pushes the water back into the display tank. This pump can be placed in the sump or ran externally by drilling the sump and plumbing it into the pump. The size of the pump depends on the size of your overflows and how fast of an exchange rate you want between the DT and sump.
Others will hopefully jump in and give advice. Good luck with your setup

 

[brunoboarder2444]

Do you have pictures of current set up and plans so we can help you out....

Besides the return pump you will need to invest in a good protein skimmer(filters out large particles and detritus) and powerheads...i recommend 2 vortech mp40s....oh and definitely invest in an RO/DI unit...you hook it up to your water source (usually a faucet or hose hook up) and run the water through it to purify it, it will remove phosphates, nitrates, fluoride, chlorine, etc from the water....this means there will be less nutrients for algae to feed and grow off of and keeping a cleaner system.


As for filtration, the live rock that you place into your system does 90% of your biological filtration, then your protein skimmer will get a majority of free floating detritus and large particles, a clean up crew (snails, hermits, starfish, etc) is also strongly recommended to eat the detritus that settles...thats the basics on filtration.

You can go more in depth and run gfo (granulated ferris oxide) to remove phosphates and carbon to remove just about everything else.

Sent from my PC36100 using Reefs

 

[Esquire1977a]

Sorry, I don't have any pictures at this time. I have bought and returned so much that I haven't gotten to that point. However, this is what I have currently:

1. Aqueon Proflex Model 4 sump
2. Aqueon QuetFlow return pump, 2113 gph
3. Coralife Super Skimmer, 220g
4. Aqueon Pro 250 Heater, 90g
5. Marineland Maxi-Jet 1200 used as a power head moduel, 295g
6. Coralife Turbo-Twist 2x Ultraviolet Sterilizer 125g
7. Aqua Illumination Verga Color (6) lights and mounting system on the way
8. Salt, substrate, and sand

That's about it so far. I am not sure of the overflow size as far as hose size fitting, but I can call FishtanksDirect.com and ask them. As for the RO/DI unit, I don't think that I would be able to use that since, the closet water source is the kitchen sink. RO/DI units run constantly, right? I have read that letting water stand in a bucket for 24 hours will "clean it" if you will...

 

[fishman1069]

Definitely get a ro/DI unit. You can get a bucket or brute garbage pail for storage. The unit can be turned on and off. Letting tap water sit for 24 hours only dissapates The chlorine. All The other crap will still be there

 

[brunoboarder2444]

Sorry, I don't have any pictures at this time. I have bought and returned so much that I haven't gotten to that point. However, this is what I have currently:

1. Aqueon Proflex Model 4 sump
2. Aqueon QuetFlow return pump, 2113 gph
3. Coralife Super Skimmer, 220g
4. Aqueon Pro 250 Heater, 90g
5. Marineland Maxi-Jet 1200 used as a power head moduel, 295g
6. Coralife Turbo-Twist 2x Ultraviolet Sterilizer 125g
7. Aqua Illumination Verga Color (6) lights and mounting system on the way
8. Salt, substrate, and sand

That's about it so far. I am not sure of the overflow size as far as hose size fitting, but I can call FishtanksDirect.com and ask them. As for the RO/DI unit, I don't think that I would be able to use that since, the closet water source is the kitchen sink. RO/DI units run constantly, right? I have read that letting water stand in a bucket for 24 hours will "clean it" if you will...

looking good for the most part right now just need to pick up rock and some more powerheads for more flow....with corals you want your powerheads to amount to 20-40x the amount of water in your tank so 175x 20-40 will give you proper amount of flow doesnt need to be a single powerhead and multiple is actually better....your best option would be 2x vortech mp40

as for the RO/DI it is only on when you want it hooked up and is movable so you could just take it away and store it wherever you would like....they also have attachments so that you could screw it into the kitchen faucet when you want to run it, you make as much water as needed then you unhook it up.

letting water sit for 24 hours doesnt "clean it". when you let the water sit for 24 hours it makes most of the chlorine/fluoride evaporate out. however this doesnt remove other things like nitrates, phosphates, copper and plenty of other trace elements that could be in your tap. these things in your tap will not kill the inhabitants of your tank but you will most definitely have problems with algae growth due to the high amount of phosphates nitrates etc which would be an eye sore. also sensitive corals will lose color and intensity in presence of high amounts of nitrate or phosphate as well.

 

[Custom05Taco]

I would also invest in a second heater its always better to have 2 heaters

 

[brunoboarder2444]

i would also invest in a second heater its always better to have 2 heaters

+1

 

[Esquire1977a]

k:, I see that I need one more heater, Vortech mp40 x2, and look for the RO/DI unit. I will research the RO/DI unit; I do have a water source in the Garage, for my water heater, but I don't have a controlled climate in there.

:thanks:

 

[jrobbins]

Please don't take this the wrong way, but you seem to be putting the cart before the horse here. before you go buying all this equipment you should first get a better idea of what you want to keep.

Also, some of the stuff you bought doesn't have that great a reputation, or doesn't makes sense together. for example, you are buying serious lighting that will grow almost anything, however you are pairing it with an underpowered skimmer that wont be able to keep things clean enough for most sps or delicate corals that will require such intense light.

if you just want to keep soft corals you can get a cheap t5 or even PC light (or even cheaper led's) that will grow softies fine, and some of them will like the fact that your skimmer is underpowered.

same thing for pumps. if you are going to keep zoas and mushrooms you wont need 6 mp60's turning the tank into a jacuzzi.

Sorry, I don't have any pictures at this time. I have bought and returned so much that I haven't gotten to that point. However, this is what I have currently:

1. Aqueon Proflex Model 4 sump
2. Aqueon QuetFlow return pump, 2113 gph
3. Coralife Super Skimmer, 220g
4. Aqueon Pro 250 Heater, 90g
5. Marineland Maxi-Jet 1200 used as a power head moduel, 295g
6. Coralife Turbo-Twist 2x Ultraviolet Sterilizer 125g
7. Aqua Illumination Verga Color (6) lights and mounting system on the way
8. Salt, substrate, and sand

That's about it so far. I am not sure of the overflow size as far as hose size fitting, but I can call FishtanksDirect.com and ask them. As for the RO/DI unit, I don't think that I would be able to use that since, the closet water source is the kitchen sink. RO/DI units run constantly, right? I have read that letting water stand in a bucket for 24 hours will "clean it" if you will...

 

[PeteTheGreek89]

k:, I see that I need one more heater, Vortech mp40 x2, and look for the RO/DI unit. I will research the RO/DI unit; I do have a water source in the Garage, for my water heater, but I don't have a controlled climate in there.

:thanks:

to control the temp on the water u make u can simply put a heater in the garbage can or container u are using to store the water. also you are going to need at least about 1lbs per gal of rocks for your tank. and to do all the pluming to and from the sump. and i also recommend the 2 mp40's and a second heater for better temp control and back up.

 

[Esquire1977a]

Also, some of the stuff you bought doesn't have that great a reputation, or doesn't makes sense together. for example, you are buying serious lighting that will grow almost anything, however you are pairing it with an underpowered skimmer that wont be able to keep things clean enough for most sps or delicate corals that will require such intense light.

No offense taken. I thank you for being honest. Please be more specific with the items that don't have a great reputation. Thanks for the information about the skimmer. What Skimmer do you recommend?

Also, about the lighting, I thought that it might be too much light, but I really didn't know. However, from my understanding about the lights, I can adjust the output of all six, wireless, so I should be able to find a "sweet" spot, hopefully. Anymore information would be greatly appreciated.

 

[brunoboarder2444]

The lights are very strong but they can be dialed down for whatever settings necessary....the skimmer is underpowered but you could use it until you upgrade it or if new could return and buy a new one....good brands for skimmers would be reef octopus, pm, I'm drawing blanks but take a look at the ones in marinedepot.com also always get a bigger.skimmer than necessary, for a 175 id go with something rated for 250-300 gallons ...just make sure it fits in the sump

I'll look up some good threads on learning how to get started....but step one is always research anything you plan on putting in your tank and buy from reputable stores....no petland or petco

 

[jrobbins]

You can totally adjust them, it is just that unless you are housing corals that need $3k worth of lights why spend the money.

ok, here is my honest take on your equipment list, but it is pretty meaningless until you know what kind of tank you are keeping...

Sorry, I don't have any pictures at this time. I have bought and returned so much that I haven't gotten to that point. However, this is what I have currently:

1. Aqueon Proflex Model 4 sump - not so great. you are going to have a tough time fitting a big skimmer in there. also there is no room for reactors, etc.
2. Aqueon QuetFlow return pump, 2113 gph - fine pump i guess, but if you want to push that much water you might be better off with an external pump. they generate less heat. also, you have to take into consideration that your durso will only handle about 600 gph on its best day. unless you are losing 1200 gph to headheight or plan to t it off to a bunch of reactors/chiller/etc. you are just going to have to throttle back the pump anyway.
3. Coralife Super Skimmer, 220g - total crap and way too small for the size tank you are talking about (if you plan to keep softies it is pretty small, if you plan for a mixed reef or sps it almost certainly wont cut it. either way it is still a crappy skimmer. for a tank that size you should be looking at skimmers 3x the price and that is still on the low end)
4. Aqueon Pro 250 Heater, 90g - if you are running the leds you will probably need more heat.
5. Marineland Maxi-Jet 1200 used as a power head moduel, 295g - they are great pumps to run reactors and such, if you wanted to use them for flow in a large tank you will need a ton of them. you can mod them for more flow but they are noisy in my experience when you do that
6. Coralife Turbo-Twist 2x Ultraviolet Sterilizer 125g - never used UV so cant say.
7. Aqua Illumination Verga Color (6) lights and mounting system on the way - Bonkers
8. Salt, substrate, and sand

That's about it so far. I am not sure of the overflow size as far as hose size fitting, but I can call FishtanksDirect.com and ask them. As for the RO/DI unit, I don't think that I would be able to use that since, the closet water source is the kitchen sink. RO/DI units run constantly, right? I have read that letting water stand in a bucket for 24 hours will "clean it" if you will...

If you dont get an RODI now you will most likely pay the price for it down the line. how is your source water?

 

[PeteTheGreek89]

Hate to say it but very well summed up! And agreed! Also always remember I rather over skim the under skim any day!

You can totally adjust them, it is just that unless you are housing corals that need $3k worth of lights why spend the money.

ok, here is my honest take on your equipment list, but it is pretty meaningless until you know what kind of tank you are keeping...

Sorry, I don't have any pictures at this time. I have bought and returned so much that I haven't gotten to that point. However, this is what I have currently:

1. Aqueon Proflex Model 4 sump - not so great. you are going to have a tough time fitting a big skimmer in there. also there is no room for reactors, etc.
2. Aqueon QuetFlow return pump, 2113 gph - fine pump i guess, but if you want to push that much water you might be better off with an external pump. they generate less heat. also, you have to take into consideration that your durso will only handle about 600 gph on its best day. unless you are losing 1200 gph to headheight or plan to t it off to a bunch of reactors/chiller/etc. you are just going to have to throttle back the pump anyway.
3. Coralife Super Skimmer, 220g - total crap and way too small for the size tank you are talking about (if you plan to keep softies it is pretty small, if you plan for a mixed reef or sps it almost certainly wont cut it. either way it is still a crappy skimmer. for a tank that size you should be looking at skimmers 3x the price and that is still on the low end)
4. Aqueon Pro 250 Heater, 90g - if you are running the leds you will probably need more heat.
5. Marineland Maxi-Jet 1200 used as a power head moduel, 295g - they are great pumps to run reactors and such, if you wanted to use them for flow in a large tank you will need a ton of them. you can mod them for more flow but they are noisy in my experience when you do that
6. Coralife Turbo-Twist 2x Ultraviolet Sterilizer 125g - never used UV so cant say.
7. Aqua Illumination Verga Color (6) lights and mounting system on the way - Bonkers
8. Salt, substrate, and sand

That's about it so far. I am not sure of the overflow size as far as hose size fitting, but I can call FishtanksDirect.com and ask them. As for the RO/DI unit, I don't think that I would be able to use that since, the closet water source is the kitchen sink. RO/DI units run constantly, right? I have read that letting water stand in a bucket for 24 hours will "clean it" if you will...

If you dont get an RODI now you will most likely pay the price for it down the line. how is your source water?

 

[Esquire1977a]

After seeing the discussion, I made the decision to buy a few more items. I hope the items will be sufficient. I was also looking at liveRocknreef.com and looked at a few inverts and corals. I like the look of sponges, anemones (of course), sea fans, and frags. I think once, I get my base and decorative rock, the aforementioned will be my main focus. I just want to be able to keep them alive.

These are the items that I bought last night:

1. 2 x Ecotech Marine Vortech MP40w ES Pump EcoSmart
2. 1 x Precision Marine Bullet 3 Protein Skimmer, 400g
3. 1 x 150 GPD 4 Stage RO DI Pro Water Filter with TDS (75 GPD was $5 less)
4. 1 x Ecotech Vortech Battery Backup

Input on new items?

I probably will be looking at sand for six months before I can actually buy anything else. :lol: However, I am probably not at a total loss with the other stuff, as I am sure I can find some use for some of the items.

As far as the Proflex sump goes, couldn't I put the skimmer in the refugium section? I also have the socks in the first section (I bought extra to help keep the socks changed out regularly for less time consumption).

 

[beerfish]

After seeing the discussion, I made the decision to buy a few more items. I hope the items will be sufficient. I was also looking at liveRocknreef.com and looked at a few inverts and corals. I like the look of sponges, anemones (of course), sea fans, and frags. I think once, I get my base and decorative rock, the aforementioned will be my main focus. I just want to be able to keep them alive.

The equipment list is looking better, and I'll let others comment on that.

As far as your livestock interests, you're going to want to go VERY slowly. Make sure the tank is fully cycled (plenty of info here and elsewhere on the nitrogen cycle, so I won't get into it here).

Sponges are notoriously difficult to keep, as they feed directly from the water column. Hold off on them until you have a mature tank and some experience.

Anemones are not horribly difficult to keep under the right conditions, but can move around the tank, and will sting other corals. They can be added to a reef tank, but do your research and use caution.

Sea fans (gorgonians), come in two flavors, photosynthetic, and non-photosynthetic. While you're getting started, make sure you avoid non-photosynthetic ones for the same reason as I mentioned about the sponges.

Frags are simply a term for pieces of coral. There are three types of coral that people primarily frag. Soft coral, such as mushrooms and colt coral, are some of the easiest to care for. They require low-moderate light and low-moderate flow. They will tolerate less than ideal water. LPS (large polyp stony) corals, such as frogspawn, acans, and blastos, require moderate light and flow, and many can sting other corals, so require a bit of caution regarding placement. They won't move once placed, so they're much less troublesome than anemones can be. Most LPS will tolerate less than perfect water for a short period of time. SPS (small polyp stony) corals, otherwise known as "colored sticks" are the most demanding type of coral. They require high light and flow, and many will tolerate only pristine water. These are the last corals that you should consider, once you've gotten your feet wet (pun fully intended) with other, easier to care for corals.

 

[brunoboarder2444]

very big improvements on equipment, i agree with everything beerfish has mentioned as well
i would start out with fish and inverts such as crabs/hermits/shrimp/snails, then some soft corals, then lps once you get the hang of softies, and lastly id say sps once everything has stabalized and matured

but research everything before adding!

you can put the skimmer in the fuge section as long as it fits, best skimming would be in the skimmer section though