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FlyPenFly

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TLDR; Does anyone sell a package of pieces that makes it easy to put together a manifold system?
I don't want to go to Home Depot 5 times.

Hey guys, I'm getting an eShopps RS-200 for a steal and want to redo all the plumbing in my system.

System is 65 gallons + around 25 gallons in the sump with a head height around 4 feet. The overflow is drilled but unfortunately only has 2 bottom holes. I plan to use both for a Herbie style overflow and just use an over the tank return that I'll secure in place.

I'll be using a Jebao DC9000 which can run up to 2380GPH. I will probably be using it at half power or so and want to make it a manifold with 3 outlets (Bio Pellets, UV, and bonus third option for the future). I have blue PVC glue and pipe cutters ready to go.

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JimmyR1rider

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Manifolds are actually really easy. I usually do the returns in the systems I've plumbed for people out of 1"(assuming the pump has a 1" outlet) and just tee it off with a 1"-3/4" tee. Then you just need some 3/4 pvc, 3/4 tees and 3/4 ball valves. Space them to where they're convenient and you're done. Cap the end and all it a day. If you want you can make it removable by putting a ball valve right after the 1"-3/4" tee and then a union. This way you can shut it off then undo the union to remove the manifold and still have the system running if ever making changes to it.

So a basic package for a 3 outlet manifold would be:

1 length of 3/4" PVC
1 1"-3/4" tee
3 3/4" tees
3 3/4" ball valves-I use threaded to use threaded hose barb fittings
3 3/4" slip to thread adapters.
3 3/4"-1/2" hose barb sprinkler fittings. You can leave it 3/4 for the barbs but most reactors use 1/2" line.

3/4" elbows if you wish to route the manifold other than straight across off the return.

If you want to do the removable manifold just also ad a 3/4" union and a 3/4" inch slip(socket) ball valve.

For the threaded ball valves to be used you can cut short pieces of 3/4" PVC, slip them into the tees and the thread to slip adaptor so to them and then screw the ball valves to them. It eats up room due to length added for adapters but I like to be able to unscrew the ball valves later on if need be for whatever reason. I just put the tee high enough but still under the return ball valve that the extra length doesn't bother me or make it hard to access anything.

If not making the manifold removable just remember to make sure you put the tee under the shutoff for the return so when adjusting the flow in the manifold outlets it won't effect the flow back to the tank and the manifold pressure will be ran off the extra pressure caused by gating back the pump for the desired flow in your system.


Also, you want the purple or clear primer and clear pvc cement. At least that's what I always use.

Here are pics of the last install I did last week. Hopefully it'll help you with an idea. I only did 1 valve on that one but left plenty of pipe to have enough space to easily expand it later on if the owner of the tank wants to:

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