- Location
- Connecticut
Vio, how's the new CO2 meter working?
Keeping PH over 8.0
- Thread starter duke62
- Start date
- Location
- lindenhurst,ny
Wow so ur bedroom has more co2 than ur basement
i really Didn't want to hijack Duke thread, this is last comment about CO2, i guess in basement, is less CO2, because exist some draft , this meter is so sensitive , i was in bedroom and i see 980 ppm, then my dog seat next to me, in 30-40 min. go up to 1200 ppm, i now, i really seal the bedroom ( may be to much) new windows,double insulation for ceiling , if i crack the window go down fast, now i have to leave the bedroom door open.Thanks to Dan for good advice.
- Location
- Connecticut
I am equilibrating some salt water in the basement right now and pH is not what alkalinity would predict. I will give it 24 hours. I won't hesitate using higher atmospheric CO2 numbers in future calculations.
This thread has been an eye opener for me too.
This thread has been an eye opener for me too.
- Location
- Dingmans ferry PA
Well I left my dog out of the room one night and my PH didnt get below 7.7. With the dog in the room it was going from 7.45 to 7.5 even with a window cracked. Past couple nights have been alot better with more ventilation and the Kalk even though my ALK went up a bit. I will be keeping a close eye on ALK. Today I topped off the container with fresh water and didnt add any kalk. Just have the residue from previous dosage in the container
I find something interesting, I think I gone leave the top water along ( not add. nothing)
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.php
Here is the PH portion of the article for those who don't like to dig:
Aside from the issues discussed above concerning the effluent?s pH when the DI resin becomes depleted, the final pH coming out of an RO/DI system should not significantly concern reef aquarists. Many aquarists with low pH problems have asked, for example, if their aquarium?s low pH may be caused by their replacing evaporated water with RO/DI water that they measure to have a pH below 7. In short, the answer is no, this is not a cause of low pH nor is it something to be generally concerned about, for the following reasons:
1. The pH of totally pure water is around 7 (with the exact value depending on temperature). As carbon dioxide from the atmosphere enters the water, the pH drops into the 6?s and even into the 5?s, depending on the amount of CO[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE]. At saturation with the level of CO[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE] in normal (outside) air, the pH would be about 5.66. Indoor air often has even more CO[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE], and the pH can drop a bit lower, into the 5?s. Consequently, the pH of highly purified water coming from an RO/DI unit is expected to be in the pH 5-7 range.
2. The pH of highly purified water is not accurately measured by test kits, or by pH meters. There are several different reasons for this, including the fact that highly purified water has very little buffering capacity, so its pH is easily changed. Even the acidity or basicity of a pH test kit?s indicator dye is enough to alter pure water?s measured pH. As for pH meters, the probes themselves do not function well in the very low ionic strength of pure freshwater, and trace impurities on them can swing the pH around quite a bit.
3. The pH of the combination of two solutions does not necessarily reflect the average (not even a weighted average) of their two pH values. The final pH of a mixture may actually not even be between the pH?s of the two solutions when combined. Consequently, adding pH 7 pure water to pH 8.2 seawater may not even result in a pH below 8.2, but rather might be higher than 8.2 (for complex reasons relating to the acidity of bicarbonate in seawater vs. freshwater).
__________________
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.php
Here is the PH portion of the article for those who don't like to dig:
Aside from the issues discussed above concerning the effluent?s pH when the DI resin becomes depleted, the final pH coming out of an RO/DI system should not significantly concern reef aquarists. Many aquarists with low pH problems have asked, for example, if their aquarium?s low pH may be caused by their replacing evaporated water with RO/DI water that they measure to have a pH below 7. In short, the answer is no, this is not a cause of low pH nor is it something to be generally concerned about, for the following reasons:
1. The pH of totally pure water is around 7 (with the exact value depending on temperature). As carbon dioxide from the atmosphere enters the water, the pH drops into the 6?s and even into the 5?s, depending on the amount of CO[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE]. At saturation with the level of CO[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE] in normal (outside) air, the pH would be about 5.66. Indoor air often has even more CO[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE], and the pH can drop a bit lower, into the 5?s. Consequently, the pH of highly purified water coming from an RO/DI unit is expected to be in the pH 5-7 range.
2. The pH of highly purified water is not accurately measured by test kits, or by pH meters. There are several different reasons for this, including the fact that highly purified water has very little buffering capacity, so its pH is easily changed. Even the acidity or basicity of a pH test kit?s indicator dye is enough to alter pure water?s measured pH. As for pH meters, the probes themselves do not function well in the very low ionic strength of pure freshwater, and trace impurities on them can swing the pH around quite a bit.
3. The pH of the combination of two solutions does not necessarily reflect the average (not even a weighted average) of their two pH values. The final pH of a mixture may actually not even be between the pH?s of the two solutions when combined. Consequently, adding pH 7 pure water to pH 8.2 seawater may not even result in a pH below 8.2, but rather might be higher than 8.2 (for complex reasons relating to the acidity of bicarbonate in seawater vs. freshwater).
__________________
- Location
- Dingmans ferry PA
So I was able to keep my PH around 7.8 low 7.6 by leaving the back room windows open and its been alright but something just wasnt right to me so I called a reefer chimney sweep. He opened up my boilers vents and guess what almost 100 percent clogged. I cleaned the chimney 2 years ago but some debris fell into it and was clogging the chimney. We are so lucky nothing happened to harm us and me being worried about the PH probably saved our lives. Last time I had the chimney cleaned it was fine little cleaning and all the times before that was pretty clean. This time was had alot of debris. Clay from the chimney and some mortar along with soot. That being said my ph raised now to 8.2 and with the boiler on all day today with the cold my is PH is holding at 8.1. Before this my PH would have been in the low 7.5 range with boiler on all day. I am so happy we are safe thanks to my fish tank 
Funny thing is my carbon monoxide detector never went off
Funny thing is my carbon monoxide detector never went off
- Location
- Upper East Side of NYC
Damn Duke, good to hear you got that itch that something wasn't right and had that checked out. Ack. Go aquarium as an early warning sign right?
Time for a new CO detector?
Time for a new CO detector?
- Location
- Connecticut
Glad to hear all is well Duke. I have been meaning to ask you about the final outcome of your pH battles. WOW, your pH meter saved your life. I was going to have only my fireplace chimney cleaned this year. I may have to do the furnace chimney as well.
Carbon monoxide detectors have a limited life, so, you might check that out too.
Carbon monoxide detectors have a limited life, so, you might check that out too.
- Location
- Dingmans ferry PA
Carbon monoxide detector is brand new. Picked it up just about 2 months ago maybe 3
that doesn't mean its working correctly. you should ck it out.
- Location
- Bellmore, NY
Glad you found that!!!!
- Location
- poughquag, ny
< has been dosing kalk for almost 9 years, do not use kalk with a ato unit, bound to have a failure and a crash lol been there done that. and i dont believe a reactor or stirrer is better then straight saturated kalk water. i use a doser and make up 5g of kalk at a time, last 7 days. there is a film that form on top of it. i dont think a stirrer works any better, and seeing how randy holmes farley doses his ill stick to the same way, i do use 3tspn per gallon and add vinegar to help saturate and keep ph done. lol i am at opposite end and maintain ph around 8.4
- Location
- LBC (Long Beach, CA) formerly NYC
didn't read all 10000 pages in this thread but i add KALK continuously as well as Kent Marine PH PRO+ (or something like that) and still have problems getting it up beyond 8.17 these days but figured its cuz i got alot of fish and dont have a Ca reactor
- Location
- Westchester
I've had the same issue for a couple of years now. Usually in the winter when the windows are closed. My solution was to simply add an air stone in my sump (I have an all-in-one) setup.
At first I ran it all the time to get things stabilized. Shortly after that I plugged the air pump into my moonlight outlet on my Apex power bar. Then it only ran at night, when I really needed it.
I went this route because all my other parameters: Calcium, Magnesium, Alkalinity, and Phosphate were testing out ok, although at the high end of their perspective ranges. I've been having success for some time now with my chemistry and didn't want to mess with it.
And whenever possible..... Open a window. It'll do wonders.
At first I ran it all the time to get things stabilized. Shortly after that I plugged the air pump into my moonlight outlet on my Apex power bar. Then it only ran at night, when I really needed it.
I went this route because all my other parameters: Calcium, Magnesium, Alkalinity, and Phosphate were testing out ok, although at the high end of their perspective ranges. I've been having success for some time now with my chemistry and didn't want to mess with it.
And whenever possible..... Open a window. It'll do wonders.
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