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lnevo

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I haven't come across any of this data without scouring deep in the thousand page RC thread. I figured I'd share the par measurements I collected today for my D120's. My tank is a 65g (36x18x24). The fixtures are 8x16" and I have two across the top.

The fixtures are only about 4-5" over the water line. I'll measure later to get a more precise number. I set the sensor on the sandbed, it was sitting at around 18" The sensor was 6" away from the fixture edge. So the par at the sandbed starts at 15 with one channel, 30 with both at the lowest dim (5%). I then increased the dim by 5% increments and measured the par. With both channels at 100% the par was at 188 at the sandbed the furthest point from the fixture.

I then moved the fixture forward as far as I could so the sensor was now at 3.5" from the edge of the fixture. These fixtures are 8" wide (by 16") so the last test we're talking about 10" from center and with this second test we're around 7-8" from center. The par here ranged from 29-388 at the sandbed.

After I established the range of par at different dim percentages, I measured a few different points in my tank. My rock-work goes back and up like most do, so I moved the fixture back and measured where I normally have it. At the waterline, with both channels at 100%, I was hitting 1400-1500 par. I measured the different spots, water line, top, middle, bottom at a few different dim settings. That's the last chart with the bars.

Overall, I'd say these lights are pretty powerful. So far, the only coral I bleached though was my huge Acropora macrophthalmia colony which was sitting at about 6-800 par all day. It's no wonder. I'm sure if I had my lights setup a bit higher, I'd have a better result, but due to my canopy, this is where it's at. I hope this info is useful for some people, now I have the fun of figuring out what I want my par to be :)
 

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lnevo

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Bellmore, NY
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Since taking these measurements, I've removed the lens from my fixture. This really brightened up the look of the tank quite a bit and the color blending is much better for me. My fixture is only 4" off the water so really not ideal. I think with the lenses off will make a big difference in the long term.

I only repeated the test at different points in the tank at the different percentages and at the bottom as before, but I only measured 5%, 50%, and 100%. Since the results have always been pretty linear, I just extrapolated the rest of the values.

One thing to keep in mind is I did remove a lot of sand from my system and so the meter was probably 1-2" lower than before. So a little bit of PAR being lost is from that as well.
 

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lnevo

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Bellmore, NY
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Something I just realized is that at the sand level, the actual PAR increased from my previous measurements, most likely from getting more light from the rest of the fixture. However, that PAR advantage quickly diminishes as soon as we start going up.
 

vashawn

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I have 265 84x24x32 I current have 3 of the d120 full spectrum and will add 2 more the few mixed corals I have are doing good.
I currently have the blues @ 100% and white @ 50% about 3 inches off the water surface. The fixtures basically sit on the tank rim. How high should I have the light off the water surface?
 

Rob&Gab

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I'm glad I just read this bwewn trying to figure our the par of our evergrow IT2040,s ..

I'm gonna get a par meter cause we have them at 11" above the water line and some acros that are bnow colonys sat there whole life at 3-4" below the water line . on our over flow.



What meter did u use ???????
 

lnevo

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Bellmore, NY
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I used an Apogee, I can get the exact model if you think it's worthwhile. If you post or send me the results, I can graph them up like above.

There's also this measurement that I've seen as another comparison. This one was taken at 15" and at 10". I'm interested to see what you get Rob.
 

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