Do you know that you can extend the replacement time of your R/O DI Resin and Membrane?
It all starts with your tap water, use a TDS Meter to see what you’re TDS levels are.
Example, my tap water in Carlisle, Pa. TDS reading is 161 ppm, 20 minutes away is Harrisburg, Pa. their TDS reading is 63 ppm, an area of New York is 214 ppm.
The higher you’re TDS ppm is, the harder your R/O DI filter has to work.
When you first install a new membrane and after you flush it, take a TDS reading. Then write on a strip of tape and apply the tape some where on your R/O unit to use as a reference point. When your R/O membrane reference point (i.e. TDS ppm) reading starts to higher, which means your R/O membrane is starting to get exhausted.
Installing a back flush kit for your R/O Filter will help to remove any residue that may form on your R/O Membrane and extend the membrane life.
Now, as for the sediment pre-filter and carbon pre-filter, they go by time and or usage.
The sediment pre-filter goes by discoloration and or time. On a scale of 0 to 9, 0 being new (white) and 9 being totally exhausted (usually brown to rust color).
The cleaner you keep your sediment pre-filter the less you have a chance of precontaminating your carbon pre-filter.
As for your carbon pre-filter, some claim for every 250 gallons of usage and or 3 months time, it’s time for replacements.
The cleaner that you keep your sediment and carbon pre-filters the less taxing it is for your membrane and will extend the life of your membrane.
I consider the sediment pre-filter, carbon pre-filter and membrane all to be a pre-filter for your DI Resin. The lower the TDS reading are from your membrane, the longer your have before replacing your DI Resin.
A 160 PSI Gauge is a useful tool to help maintain your R/O DI Filter.
Most R/O Membranes are rated at 60 PSI. You need to know what your house PSI is.
The average house is about 45 PSI to 50 PSI and is acceptable.
WHAT’S YOUR HOUSE WATER PSI?
Did you know what a mixed bed color change DI Resin is?
The 2 colors that you see in a mixed bed DI Resin cartridge is the same product, the blue color is a DYE that wares off over time to indicate that your DI Resin is getting exhausted.
The golden color is the same DI Resin with-out the BLUE DYE. The BLUE DYE can ware off prematurely and the DI Resin will still have a lot of usage left. This is when a TDS Meter is needed. Go by the TDS readings and let that determine when to replace your DI Resin cartridge.
The following above info will keep your TDS reading as close to -0- as possible.
Part of the solution in keeping a balanced saltwater aquarium is the best water quality you can provide.
If you spend a little you can save a lot.
Did you know that in winter time your water production gets slower?
Take your water supply line an add 25 feet of water line tubing, coil tubing and place in a 5 gallon bucket with a heater set at 75 degrees, your water production will be back up to summer time levels.
This thread is only my opinion and experiences.
Gettanked
It all starts with your tap water, use a TDS Meter to see what you’re TDS levels are.
Example, my tap water in Carlisle, Pa. TDS reading is 161 ppm, 20 minutes away is Harrisburg, Pa. their TDS reading is 63 ppm, an area of New York is 214 ppm.
The higher you’re TDS ppm is, the harder your R/O DI filter has to work.
When you first install a new membrane and after you flush it, take a TDS reading. Then write on a strip of tape and apply the tape some where on your R/O unit to use as a reference point. When your R/O membrane reference point (i.e. TDS ppm) reading starts to higher, which means your R/O membrane is starting to get exhausted.
Installing a back flush kit for your R/O Filter will help to remove any residue that may form on your R/O Membrane and extend the membrane life.
Now, as for the sediment pre-filter and carbon pre-filter, they go by time and or usage.
The sediment pre-filter goes by discoloration and or time. On a scale of 0 to 9, 0 being new (white) and 9 being totally exhausted (usually brown to rust color).
The cleaner you keep your sediment pre-filter the less you have a chance of precontaminating your carbon pre-filter.
As for your carbon pre-filter, some claim for every 250 gallons of usage and or 3 months time, it’s time for replacements.
The cleaner that you keep your sediment and carbon pre-filters the less taxing it is for your membrane and will extend the life of your membrane.
I consider the sediment pre-filter, carbon pre-filter and membrane all to be a pre-filter for your DI Resin. The lower the TDS reading are from your membrane, the longer your have before replacing your DI Resin.
A 160 PSI Gauge is a useful tool to help maintain your R/O DI Filter.
Most R/O Membranes are rated at 60 PSI. You need to know what your house PSI is.
The average house is about 45 PSI to 50 PSI and is acceptable.
WHAT’S YOUR HOUSE WATER PSI?
Did you know what a mixed bed color change DI Resin is?
The 2 colors that you see in a mixed bed DI Resin cartridge is the same product, the blue color is a DYE that wares off over time to indicate that your DI Resin is getting exhausted.
The golden color is the same DI Resin with-out the BLUE DYE. The BLUE DYE can ware off prematurely and the DI Resin will still have a lot of usage left. This is when a TDS Meter is needed. Go by the TDS readings and let that determine when to replace your DI Resin cartridge.
The following above info will keep your TDS reading as close to -0- as possible.
Part of the solution in keeping a balanced saltwater aquarium is the best water quality you can provide.
If you spend a little you can save a lot.
Did you know that in winter time your water production gets slower?
Take your water supply line an add 25 feet of water line tubing, coil tubing and place in a 5 gallon bucket with a heater set at 75 degrees, your water production will be back up to summer time levels.
This thread is only my opinion and experiences.
Gettanked
Last edited: