So what Im looking for is personal experience with the reef angel salinity module,
What I like to know if any one has had any issues with miss reading results, bad calibration , basically anything negative.
What Im doing is my own automated water changes. And the key is a salinity / conductivity controller , already owning the reef angel , Im going to give it a shot.. $150 is what it cost so Im trying to avoid having to rebuy ..
Now to the fun part How...
Parts needed : Reef Controller ( Eg Reef Angel ect ) RODI, Float switch, 120 volt solenoid , small bucket with an open spigot at the top, Dializer filter available at Seavisons. And a small pump
Parts: Rodi/float switch Price ?
Dializer Filter $55.12 (web site ) -------> http://www.seavisions.com/newparts1.htm
120volt Solenoid from EBAY -----> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-110-120...005&rk=1&rkt=6&mehot=pp&sd=290657793099&rt=nc
Small Bucket with open drain at the top...
So how dose work... Ok on your controller your going to have a small pump turn on for (a set amount of TIME Which depends on how much water you wanna change )
The pump is connected to the dializer filter which sucks salt water out of your system through the filter right back into your system clean of pollutants and salt, there for dropping your salinity and cleaning your water, at that point your Salinity/conductivity controller will read the salinity and based on your set points turn an outlet on or off On your controller controlling the solenoid from ebay, you have your fresh RODI water hooked up on one end and the other end is put into the small bucket that is full of RODI water right to the top of the drain waiting for more water so it can overfall from the drain into your system when the solenoid is turned on based on the salinity in the tank. Obviously you have your salt mix in the bucket at a high concentrate .. I would have a john guess at the bottom for the water coming from your RODI.. therefore it can help mix the salt..
Evaporation works the same way with your RODI your just adding the solenoid before the float.
When your controller hits the set point it will turn off the solenoid , you set the amount of time which will equal the size of a water change.. Small frequent changes are IMO the best...
Hope this helps out .. Just waiting on some reviews of the salinity probes by Reef Angel..
As I think of all the negatives and positives , I can only see a few issues, 1 and most important issues is the reliability of the probes.
A wrong reading can have big issues. So weekly checks with a refractometer would be a good practice.
Second issue running out of salt in your bucket , if you have no salt water slurry and fresh water continues to be added , you can have an overflow and a low salinity reading..
if you check your salt weekly I believe you should be good to go...
Just thought I'ed share.. John
What I like to know if any one has had any issues with miss reading results, bad calibration , basically anything negative.
What Im doing is my own automated water changes. And the key is a salinity / conductivity controller , already owning the reef angel , Im going to give it a shot.. $150 is what it cost so Im trying to avoid having to rebuy ..
Now to the fun part How...
Parts needed : Reef Controller ( Eg Reef Angel ect ) RODI, Float switch, 120 volt solenoid , small bucket with an open spigot at the top, Dializer filter available at Seavisons. And a small pump
Parts: Rodi/float switch Price ?
Dializer Filter $55.12 (web site ) -------> http://www.seavisions.com/newparts1.htm
120volt Solenoid from EBAY -----> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-110-120...005&rk=1&rkt=6&mehot=pp&sd=290657793099&rt=nc
Small Bucket with open drain at the top...
So how dose work... Ok on your controller your going to have a small pump turn on for (a set amount of TIME Which depends on how much water you wanna change )
The pump is connected to the dializer filter which sucks salt water out of your system through the filter right back into your system clean of pollutants and salt, there for dropping your salinity and cleaning your water, at that point your Salinity/conductivity controller will read the salinity and based on your set points turn an outlet on or off On your controller controlling the solenoid from ebay, you have your fresh RODI water hooked up on one end and the other end is put into the small bucket that is full of RODI water right to the top of the drain waiting for more water so it can overfall from the drain into your system when the solenoid is turned on based on the salinity in the tank. Obviously you have your salt mix in the bucket at a high concentrate .. I would have a john guess at the bottom for the water coming from your RODI.. therefore it can help mix the salt..
Evaporation works the same way with your RODI your just adding the solenoid before the float.
When your controller hits the set point it will turn off the solenoid , you set the amount of time which will equal the size of a water change.. Small frequent changes are IMO the best...
Hope this helps out .. Just waiting on some reviews of the salinity probes by Reef Angel..
As I think of all the negatives and positives , I can only see a few issues, 1 and most important issues is the reliability of the probes.
A wrong reading can have big issues. So weekly checks with a refractometer would be a good practice.
Second issue running out of salt in your bucket , if you have no salt water slurry and fresh water continues to be added , you can have an overflow and a low salinity reading..
if you check your salt weekly I believe you should be good to go...
Just thought I'ed share.. John
Last edited:
