Hair Algae
- Thread starter bud1
- Start date
How old is your tank? How old are your lights? What kind of skimmer do you use? Do you use RO/DI water? Do you have a sand bed? If so, how deep? Do you grow macro algae for nutrient export? Do you dose kalkwasser? What is your fish load compared to the tank size? How much liverock do you have? How much do you feed?
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My tank has been established for almost a year. My light is 1 year old as well. I have a red sea prizm skimmer. I use tap water. I dont have sand bed. I dont have any macro algae. I do dose kalkwasser sometime but not regularly. My fish load is not heavy but not light. I have 1/3 of the tank of liverocks. I feed daily. because I have a powderblue tang. which eat alot. so I feed daily. My fish usually will finsh the flakes that I feed within 5 minutes.
I use distilled water to top off. I change 1/3 of the water with tap water once a week. I am now trying to hold back on changing water as often. I dont know if it has anything to do with it. But ever since I start to change water every week the algae start to grow. I used to change water every 3 to 4 weeks. And does not seems to have any problem.
And I thought that algae is cause by NO3 and PO4. And at the level of my water parameter. I dont think the value is too high. The question is why is the algae grow like that?
And what should I do now? Have anyone used "Algone" is it any good? Does active carbon have anything to do with the condition of the water?
And I thought that algae is cause by NO3 and PO4. And at the level of my water parameter. I dont think the value is too high. The question is why is the algae grow like that?
And what should I do now? Have anyone used "Algone" is it any good? Does active carbon have anything to do with the condition of the water?
bud,
I think that detritus buildup can sometimes contribute to bad algae outbreaks. Do you blast your live rock every now and then? Also, you should be vacuuming up any detritus piles that you find, as you're doing your water changes.
It can't hurt!
Mitch
I think that detritus buildup can sometimes contribute to bad algae outbreaks. Do you blast your live rock every now and then? Also, you should be vacuuming up any detritus piles that you find, as you're doing your water changes.
It can't hurt!
Mitch
Lights are too old.
But the solution is a combination of controlling what's mentioned above.
A product called No-Cya-No will wipe it out but if you don't control your conditions, it will come back.
Depending on the size of you aquarium, you may want to back off on feeding. Just because your Tang eats every day doesn't mean you have to feed him every day. Try feeding him every other day or so. Put a piece of Romain Lettuce in between feeding days.
I am not sure about hair algea but Cyano can be brought into the tank via the water from an LFS that has it. Be careful where you buy your fish.
I know your question is about hair algea but...
I dealt regularly with an LFS. I started having the Cyano problem. Recently, I noticed that they have it in thier tanks. I asked about it and they actually said it was "Coraline Algea". I now stay away from buying livestock from that store.
But the solution is a combination of controlling what's mentioned above.
A product called No-Cya-No will wipe it out but if you don't control your conditions, it will come back.
Depending on the size of you aquarium, you may want to back off on feeding. Just because your Tang eats every day doesn't mean you have to feed him every day. Try feeding him every other day or so. Put a piece of Romain Lettuce in between feeding days.
I am not sure about hair algea but Cyano can be brought into the tank via the water from an LFS that has it. Be careful where you buy your fish.
I know your question is about hair algea but...
I dealt regularly with an LFS. I started having the Cyano problem. Recently, I noticed that they have it in thier tanks. I asked about it and they actually said it was "Coraline Algea". I now stay away from buying livestock from that store.
Hair algae is a common problem in a reef tank (less so in fish only since copper based medications used in those set ups kill the algae). Here are some ideas:
Definiately use R/O water (as suggested in an earlier reply) going forward for top off and water change. This is the most important first step in fighting the problem. Do as many water changes as you can now and cut down on feeding. Phosphate is a real contributor here, so think about temporary use of a phosphate removal device (sponge, filter, etc.)
Add lots of red legged and left legged hermit crabs and turbo snails to the tank (they will help control any further growth). Stay away from blue legged crabs if you keep snails. They are good on the hair aglae, but like to eat the snails too.
If your tank is large enough (i.e., 75 gallons plus) consider adding a tang (purple, yellow, red sea salfin or Soho tang) - they like hair algae as well.
Cut down on your lighting period until the outbreak is under control.
If you have a UV sterilizer, use it, it will kill any free floating algae (though not the hair algae growing on the rocks/fixtures).
Physically remove as much of the hair algae as you can (i.e., with a siphon during water changes).
If you do all this, you will eventually win the battle (but it will take time).
Definiately use R/O water (as suggested in an earlier reply) going forward for top off and water change. This is the most important first step in fighting the problem. Do as many water changes as you can now and cut down on feeding. Phosphate is a real contributor here, so think about temporary use of a phosphate removal device (sponge, filter, etc.)
Add lots of red legged and left legged hermit crabs and turbo snails to the tank (they will help control any further growth). Stay away from blue legged crabs if you keep snails. They are good on the hair aglae, but like to eat the snails too.
If your tank is large enough (i.e., 75 gallons plus) consider adding a tang (purple, yellow, red sea salfin or Soho tang) - they like hair algae as well.
Cut down on your lighting period until the outbreak is under control.
If you have a UV sterilizer, use it, it will kill any free floating algae (though not the hair algae growing on the rocks/fixtures).
Physically remove as much of the hair algae as you can (i.e., with a siphon during water changes).
If you do all this, you will eventually win the battle (but it will take time).
If your algae is using all of the NO3 and PO4 that your tap water is adding to the tank, your test kit will still read zero and you will continue to grow algae. Test the tapwater before you put it in the tank.
Food is another way to add nutrients that algae thrive on. Evaluate how much you're using and maybe cut back.
You can also shorten your photoperiod by 2 hours.
I suspect your problem is a combination of the three.
Food is another way to add nutrients that algae thrive on. Evaluate how much you're using and maybe cut back.
You can also shorten your photoperiod by 2 hours.
I suspect your problem is a combination of the three.
Thank You for all the inputs. I will try the suggestion. But, it would be very difficult to do.
First, the LFS does not sale RO water here. I can get distilled water. Are they as good as RO?
The LFS here does not sell RED , left or Blue leg crabs. It is very hard to find. As once a blue moon the LFS will import them from US.
As of now I have my tank running with light on for 11 hrs. How much should I cut down to?
I have started to use the Salfert Phosphate Remover to reduce the PO4.. has anyone used this before? Can they do the job?
I also find the prism skimmer does not skim that well. Should I change the skimmer. If so, which should I use?
First, the LFS does not sale RO water here. I can get distilled water. Are they as good as RO?
The LFS here does not sell RED , left or Blue leg crabs. It is very hard to find. As once a blue moon the LFS will import them from US.
As of now I have my tank running with light on for 11 hrs. How much should I cut down to?
I have started to use the Salfert Phosphate Remover to reduce the PO4.. has anyone used this before? Can they do the job?
I also find the prism skimmer does not skim that well. Should I change the skimmer. If so, which should I use?
I doubt lighting is your trouble. If you have hair algae then it's a given that you have phosphate.
The Hagen Phospahte kit is not capable of measuring sufficently close to zero to be useful in a tank that you want to be algae free. The first calibration is 0.1 mg/l which is ten times the recommended maximum level of phosphate.
I suggest you throw that kit out and buy one that's calibrated with algae prevention in mind. The Salifert test is a good example.
The first priority has to be to stop adding phosphate in your make-up water. Using RO/DI water is essential.
The second priority is to remove the phosphate already in the tank. A quick fix is a phosphate removing compound, life Seachem's Phosguard. It's critical that you wash this stuff properly, otherwise it will irritate some corals (leathers in particular). Some people complain of problems using this product but the cause of their problems is always that they can't follow the simple instructions on the packet - it must be properly rinsed. Did I mention you must rinse Phosguard properly ?
Once the phospate is removed the algae will stop growing - this is not the same as the algae dying off.
To get rid of the algae add some snails. Say 1 per 1-2 gal will clean up the problem quickly.
I use the snail "Nerita melanotragus" which I collect locally. It's eats every type of non-pink colored algae I've ever had in my tank including hair and bubble algae.
The Hagen Phospahte kit is not capable of measuring sufficently close to zero to be useful in a tank that you want to be algae free. The first calibration is 0.1 mg/l which is ten times the recommended maximum level of phosphate.
I suggest you throw that kit out and buy one that's calibrated with algae prevention in mind. The Salifert test is a good example.
The first priority has to be to stop adding phosphate in your make-up water. Using RO/DI water is essential.
The second priority is to remove the phosphate already in the tank. A quick fix is a phosphate removing compound, life Seachem's Phosguard. It's critical that you wash this stuff properly, otherwise it will irritate some corals (leathers in particular). Some people complain of problems using this product but the cause of their problems is always that they can't follow the simple instructions on the packet - it must be properly rinsed. Did I mention you must rinse Phosguard properly ?
Once the phospate is removed the algae will stop growing - this is not the same as the algae dying off.
To get rid of the algae add some snails. Say 1 per 1-2 gal will clean up the problem quickly.
I use the snail "Nerita melanotragus" which I collect locally. It's eats every type of non-pink colored algae I've ever had in my tank including hair and bubble algae.
Well! If I use distilled water from now on. Is it going to be the same as using RO? as I dont have a RO machine and RO water is not available from LFS. The best I can do is distilled water. Is it good enough or it must be RO?
Is the skimmer have anything to do with the algae grow?
Is the skimmer have anything to do with the algae grow?
hey Bud just some thoughts for ya
water changes have been bringing the phosphate in from your tap water and then possible old light bulbs lapsed in color spectrum and created the ideal habitat for hair algae... Distilled water is great phosphate free. your tank could problem go for three months without a water change, next time you want to change it just test it instead and dont change until neccesary. for now cut lights to say 7 hours a day keep using the phospate removing product you are using and manually remove all algae you can and throw it out. try feeding the fish every three days, the reduced lighting period should slow the matabolism abit, also lower temp a few degrees. Make all these changes gradually. These are weapons to use in your fight against hair algae. If you have and extra air pump around hook that up and get more oxygen in your sump, at first the higher o2 level is good for the algae but the benefits outway it all in the long run. DOnt worry about Kalkwasser causing it as long as your ph is alright, keep dosing as usual. continue to manually remove as much algae as you can all this stuff may result in :
the fish may start eating it (probably not)
the phospate level will be reduced
amonia and other toxins which cause phospate to process quicker will be slowed
more gaseous exchange means less phospate ammonia and fatty acids
fish will produce less ammonia and phosphate (Nori is a good way to feed hair algae as well as fish)
and many other benefits run the tank like this and in two moths you should be ready to go back to normal, some algae will still be around if you havent gotten it, but your levels will be more solid... do a thirty percent water chage using distilled water if you can and yoiu should be alright
remember to follow directions on the phosphate remover excactly.....
water changes have been bringing the phosphate in from your tap water and then possible old light bulbs lapsed in color spectrum and created the ideal habitat for hair algae... Distilled water is great phosphate free. your tank could problem go for three months without a water change, next time you want to change it just test it instead and dont change until neccesary. for now cut lights to say 7 hours a day keep using the phospate removing product you are using and manually remove all algae you can and throw it out. try feeding the fish every three days, the reduced lighting period should slow the matabolism abit, also lower temp a few degrees. Make all these changes gradually. These are weapons to use in your fight against hair algae. If you have and extra air pump around hook that up and get more oxygen in your sump, at first the higher o2 level is good for the algae but the benefits outway it all in the long run. DOnt worry about Kalkwasser causing it as long as your ph is alright, keep dosing as usual. continue to manually remove as much algae as you can all this stuff may result in :
the fish may start eating it (probably not)
the phospate level will be reduced
amonia and other toxins which cause phospate to process quicker will be slowed
more gaseous exchange means less phospate ammonia and fatty acids
fish will produce less ammonia and phosphate (Nori is a good way to feed hair algae as well as fish)
and many other benefits run the tank like this and in two moths you should be ready to go back to normal, some algae will still be around if you havent gotten it, but your levels will be more solid... do a thirty percent water chage using distilled water if you can and yoiu should be alright
remember to follow directions on the phosphate remover excactly.....
Thank You scodz and others.
scodz,
so you are suggesting not to change water. and just keep using the phosphate remover stuff. And stop feeding nori. and only feed my fish once every 3 days. and manually remove as much algae as possible.
Have I miss anything?
To All,
What about the algae grow on top of my green star poly? Is there any way to clean them up?
scodz,
so you are suggesting not to change water. and just keep using the phosphate remover stuff. And stop feeding nori. and only feed my fish once every 3 days. and manually remove as much algae as possible.
Have I miss anything?
To All,
What about the algae grow on top of my green star poly? Is there any way to clean them up?
hey there, I suggest to slow down with the water changes if you have no access to a phosphate free source water, everybody has different circumstances and there are different ways to do I am trying to suggest things that may work for you, I believe you said you have no access to blue leg hermits and such, so the best bet is to use phos zorb but if you leave any phosphate absorbing product in there too long it will leech back out.... if you do slow down the metabolism of your tank do it slowly, dont just start feeding every other day do it over a two to three week period at least. Thats a place to start ultimately solving the problem will mean finding a phosphate free water source. or you could just religiously use phosphate removers but that isnt entirely successful and has negatives. Just go slow and find what works for you. Good luck
Status.....
I have replace all the PC lights now. I have been using the Selfert Phosphate Remover Solution daily. I cut down the feeding to just a little a day. I stopped feeding nori. I have not change water for the a week now. I just use distilled water to top off. The prizm skimmer keeps on running. But doesnt seems to doing a very good job. I have followed this schedule for the past week. The algae seems to be slowing down. I also stop dosing the kalkwasser.
Thank You All for your inputs. Will keep you updated. But, there is still brown algae on top of the green star poly. How can I clean it up? Any suggestion?
As for RO water. I really dont have access to it unless I purchase one. As I am living in Hong Kong. The supermarkets here only sell distilled water. The only time we can get red, blue legged hermit and turbo snails are when the LFS import them once in a blue moon. They are very hard to come by. And usually cost a arm and a leg. How much is the RO unit cost in US? I know they cost over 1000 dollar here. which comes around $200 USD.
[ January 09, 2002: Message edited by: bud ]</p>
I have replace all the PC lights now. I have been using the Selfert Phosphate Remover Solution daily. I cut down the feeding to just a little a day. I stopped feeding nori. I have not change water for the a week now. I just use distilled water to top off. The prizm skimmer keeps on running. But doesnt seems to doing a very good job. I have followed this schedule for the past week. The algae seems to be slowing down. I also stop dosing the kalkwasser.
Thank You All for your inputs. Will keep you updated. But, there is still brown algae on top of the green star poly. How can I clean it up? Any suggestion?
As for RO water. I really dont have access to it unless I purchase one. As I am living in Hong Kong. The supermarkets here only sell distilled water. The only time we can get red, blue legged hermit and turbo snails are when the LFS import them once in a blue moon. They are very hard to come by. And usually cost a arm and a leg. How much is the RO unit cost in US? I know they cost over 1000 dollar here. which comes around $200 USD.
[ January 09, 2002: Message edited by: bud ]</p>
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