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ReefStar

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I have a 250W Ebo Jager heater that sits in my sump which has fairly good water movement. It is mounted horizontally on the bottom of the sump. The temp in my house is around 70. I have the heater set for 79 degrees. I have a 125gl tank and a 30gl sump. I just checked the temp in the tank (digital thermometer) and it shows about 75.6. It fluctuates between 75 and 78. I thought that with this heater the temp should not move more than 1 degree. Does anyone have any suggestions what my problem is? Supposedly 250w is enough for my tank according to the directions. I actually have about 100gl of actual water once I remove all the sand and live rock.

Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks!
 

davelin315

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I think that you could use a much smaller heater since it's in your sump. I used a free heater that came in a bucket of salt to heat a 100+ gallon pond in my basement (which get's pretty cold) for a long time and it worked just fine. Heaters are rated based upon the fact that they will be stationary in a body of water and the water will be forced to move around in the tank in "pockets" for lack of a better description. When placed in a constant flow of water that is homogenous to the tank as a whole due to the combination of water agitation and movement, it becomes more efficient and you can get by with less of a heater. All of your water flows through your sump at one point, and since it is placed in a smaller area, it can do a more efficient job of heating that area. By placing it in your sump, you should get a more constant temperature, not one that fluctuates significantly (I would consider your fluctuations to be medium, not high). The only difference in a sump with a smaller heater is that it will probably be on more often. One reason for your 3 degree swing, now that I have written this out and had time to think about it, could be that your large heater is heating too small an area at one time and it overheats the water that passes it by. Try to point your heater in the opposite direction of the water flow. If I'm not mistaken, all heaters have the elements at the bottom and the temperature sensors in the top. In an upright setting, heated water will flow up towards the sensor, but in a flat area, the heater will have more trouble identifying the ambient temperature, especially if the hot water is being whisked away by the water flow back to the tank. The heat will not be detected again until the water travels back to the sump, which could take a while, and cause larger fluctuations. If you point it opposite the flow, with the heated water flowing past the sensor before returning to the tank, you should have less fluctuation.
 

mtellin

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My heater keeps my tank within .5 degrees for the last month or two that Ive had it. its a 500 watt silica glass heater w/ an Azoo heater controller on my 75 gallon, it was a little pricey at 50.00 but after having it I would never go back to any other kind of heater, tank runs between 79.9 and 80.4 EVERY day no matter what time
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HTH,
Mike
 

EmilyB

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No expert here, but I always follow the 3w per gallon minimum, plus the two heater rule.

I have a 155g with a 300w and another heater (I can't check wattage now, it is dark...) So if one got stuck in on, it wouldn't cook immediately, but also total heating is greater than 3w per gallon.

I personally would add a second heater.
 

jmeader

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I've never come across any heater that will hold 1 degree. Usually it's 1 degree + or -, which is really a 2 degree swing. Your heater is also a bit underpowered for the diff in your room temp. For an almost 10 degree diff you should probably go with 5 watts per gal. Finally, 2 heaters would be better and safer than 1.
 

ReefStar

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Is there a specific ratio of heater wattage to gallons of water to determine the wattage needed to heat a tank?
 

canadawest

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Emily posted the general rule of thumb above:

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>No expert here, but I always follow the 3w per gallon minimum, plus the two heater rule.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I use a 200W Ebo-Jag heater in my 100gal tank, but I have it in a Rainbow Lifegard heater module inline in my closed loop return. Similar to a sump idea, but because the water is passed through a contained space (the module) it is a much more efficient heating method than just open in a tank. (very little heat disapation vs an open sump)

Overnight, when the lights aren't heating the tank, my temp stays at a constant 80F (+/- 0.5F) House temp at night is between 17C-18C (62.5F-64F)
 

JohnD

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mtellin - 500 watts for a 75 gallon tank. That is a serious bad-boy heater!
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Joe - as others have posted, you need more wattage with a second heater. IME, I have one in the sump and one in the tank near a powerhead. Maybe you would want to give that a try?
 

mtellin

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hehe thats what I thought when I ordered it too
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My tank is sumpless so I only wanted to have one heater, plus it was only 2.00 more to go from 300 watts to 500 watts so of course I had to get the 500. Awesome heater though, prob the best purchase Ive ever made
 

EEreefer

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Joe Stiene:
<STRONG>Is there a specific ratio of heater wattage to gallons of water to determine the wattage needed to heat a tank?</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
No. Just like lighting watts/gallon. If your room temp stays stable within 1 degree of what you want your tank at then you need 0 watts/gallon. If your room stays 15 degrees below what you want your tank to stay at then you'll need maybe 3 watts/gallon and so on.
dl315, you put way too much thought into this one
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.
 

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