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D.Digler

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I've been doing quite a bit of research over the past few months on how I want to go about setting up my 180 gallon. I'm considering the AquaSpacelight myself, and would like to hear different opinions on it. Do you users absolutely love it?
Anything you don't really like about it? I curious to hear how well the actinic PC's work in there. I want to buy the AquaSpacelight 72'' 3x250 watt without the PC's, then add in 2 72'' VHO super actinics as a supplement (I actually heard AB was working on something like this, but who knows how long and when). What do you think about this combination?

The only problem I see with going this route is how to mount the VHO's. I think I'd probably have to build a faux-canopy around the tank (freestanding 180 gallon with Island style overflows) and build one into each side. Then I run into an issue with creating a shadow if the VHO's are underneath the AquaSpacelight. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks!
 

JT

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Get the AB Aquaspacelight with the PC's, it's a great setup with no further dicking around necessary. I run a 4' myself but here is a picture of Richard Durso's 3x250W + PCs over his 180.

aquaspace01.jpg


- JT
 

Marcosreef

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That is some awesome light! Can't beat DE bulbs (notice I didn't say HQI
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) for quality and quantity. Unfortunately, good stuff is not always cheap. Cheers! Marco
 

myreef

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I ordered the single DE 250 watt AB lights for my prop tank this week. I can't wait to get them and see how they do.
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D.Digler

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Thanks for the responses! How hot does the Specelight get? Also, what does DE stand for, and is it different than HQI? Based on what everyone has been saying, I think I'm going to get the 3x250 watt without PC's, and add in 2 72'' super actinic VHO's.

It will be an expensive initial outlay, but when compared to building my own hood and putting something comparable in there (like 3 400 watt Iwasaki's) it probably only ends up being a $100 or so more bucks. Hopefully the price of HQI bulbs starts to come down too.
 

JT

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by D.Digler:
<strong>Also, what does DE stand for, and is it different than HQI?</strong><hr></blockquote>
DE = Double ended bulb. People who use the term HQI are referring to the DE bulbs.

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by D.Digler:
<strong>Based on what everyone has been saying, I think I'm going to get the 3x250 watt without PC's, and add in 2 72'' super actinic VHO's.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Umm, I never said this. ;-) I said to buy the spacelight that includes the PCs. You don't need VHOs with the 3x250W AB bulbs. You'd be wasitng your money big time. The cheaper alternative is to get the spacelight that includes the PCs, cost difference between the both is not nearly as expensive as it would be to add VHOs.

- JT

[ April 28, 2002: Message edited by: JT ]

[ April 28, 2002: Message edited by: JT ]</p>
 

JeremyR

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I'm running a starlight with no actinic and really like it (crisp white). So like JT said, you really don't need VHO actinic, the PC's are plenty.
 

JT

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Jeremy Russell:
<strong>So like JT said, you really don't need VHO actinic, the PC's are plenty.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Especially if all you really use the actinics for is dawn/dusk.

- JT
 

theringnebula

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The aquaspacelight gets hot, it does raise the temp of my tank. From what I hear though it is nowhere near as bad as 400 watters. I mostly solved the problem by making a hood that is open on the top and putting fans in the back. I have the fans on when the HQI's are on. I'm thinking of a chiller though because one the temps get up there and the humidity i don't know what will happen. The PC's aren't even really needed except for dawn/dusk effect.. that is how nice I like the color of the bulbs themselves. I might try some VHO's as dawn/dusk though because I like the way they make the corals glow.

My very very sick friend has the same light (3x250watt) and he also just added 2 400 Watt radiums for different effects... ie sometimes they are on, sometimes not, sometimes HQI on, etc. for various effects... crazy
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theringnebula

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Here are some pics of my completed stand/cap:

Here is a full front view:

fullstand.jpg


Here is the cap open. What I did was use a solid piece of pine (could use plywood) and cut out 2 doors that slide up to remove. I put a small bead trim around the cut in the wood to hold the door in place and hide the cut. It looks very slick:

capopen.jpg


Here is another view:

fullstandangle.jpg


Let me know if you have any questions.

[ April 28, 2002: Message edited by: theringnebula ]</p>
 

Mouse

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You want to phone up Aquamedic in the UK and speak to Paul, he is basically the guy who builds the lights. He's told me before that he can do you a canopy with PC's or VHO's. Personally id want the VHO's becuse you get a better quality Actinic out of them, more "glow" from the corals. He's said to me that if he can squeeze it in the canopy you can have it. That even goes for squashing in a pair of Moonlight bulbs, he'll do that too.
 

SPC

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Scav Dog, why does the HQI fixture have to be raised higher off the tank than the Iwasaki?
Steve
 

scavdog

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Steve, the pic was taken soon after I set the unit up.

IE: I didnt want to shock the corals so I reduced the photo-period and raised the light higher off the tank than "normal" in hopes that this would be a better way of acclimating the specimens to the new light.
 

scavdog

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for the responses! How hot does the Specelight get?
<hr></blockquote>

It gets pretty hot, however I am glad I purchased the unit.

I bought this fixture about a little over a week ago and could not be happier with the performance.

FWIW, I hear that AB will be building their Aquaspacelights with electronic ballasts in the future. Hopefully this will reduce the heat as well as the weight of the unit.


prop-tank-4-2k2.jpg


*note the intensity and crisp white color of the 250 watt HQI's compared to the 400 watt iwasaki on the right of the tank.

HTH,
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[ April 29, 2002: Message edited by: ScavDog ]</p>
 

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