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yznhmr

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I am looking at 3 diff bulbs.(these are mougal based) I currently have 2-250 watt 65k bulbs, and 2 110 watt vho tinics, i need more blue!....So I am looking at the Aqualine Buschke ,Ushio, and Hamilton bulbs( all 10k 250 watt)From what i understand the Aqualine Buschke 10k is a new bulb( updated like 3-4 months ago)they say it runs like 13k (very blue) even tho its sold as a 10k. The Ushio 10k is supposed to be a good bulb(atleast the 175 and 400 watters are)The hamiltons are supposedly made by Ushio, and are the exact same bulb(so i am told)and both the Ushio and Hamilton are a crisp white , supposedly less blue than the Aqualine Buschke . Now one of my main points is if 20k bulbs produce less light intensity, then the 10k (13k) Aqualine Buschke would be more blue and less intense, than the other 2, which would make that a negitive point,.The other 2 would have more intensity and less blue.. hmm tough decision.. I have lots of frags and want them to grow well and colorful, and want more blue than the Iwasaki's have, which way would you go? I would like pics of any of these bulbs in action, or any current opinions, not a 2 yr old review.. thx in advance
And if any one knows the best place to buy such bulb, (cheepest)
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[ October 17, 2001: Message edited by: yznhmr ]
 
A

Anonymous

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If you must have more blue why not add more supplemental fluorecent? The Iwasaki is probably the best bulb out there without changing ballast and fixtures over to HQI.
 

jrodrig692

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So Mick, you'd rather the HQI than? I have one 150W HQI, contemplating buying (2) 250W MH Retros, or buying another HQI run with 2-110w VHO's for my 120. So yzn's point makes me wonder on my purchase.
 

David Grigor

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IMO: 65K Bulb is the best option for 250W MH.

If you want a higher K bulb then you should step up to 400W to compensate for the lost intensity.....
 

arnjer

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I have pix of NEW 10K 250 watt Hamilton and Ushio bulbs.....these have been running for a couple of months now and I can get you pix of them as of today if you want them.....I am actually thinking of replacing them with the 65K when the time comes. E-mail me if you want me to send the pix

[email protected]

Jerry
 
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Anonymous

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jrodrig692:
<STRONG>So Mick, you'd rather the HQI than? I have one 150W HQI, contemplating buying (2) 250W MH Retros, or buying another HQI run with 2-110w VHO's for my 120. So yzn's point makes me wonder on my purchase.</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

When Sanjay did his test of 250W MH's the top performing bulbs (of the ones he tested) were the 250W 10K HQI and the Iwasaki 6500K with the edge given to the HQI bulb.

What I said in essence is "you have an excellent bulb, if you want a blue look add more blue instead of downgrading to a different and most likely inferior bulb."

On a 120 (assuming 48 x 24 x 24) I would consider going to 400W, however 2 x 250W HQI would likely look nice. I would not do 2 x 150 however.
 

yznhmr

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the prob is that even if i add 2 more vho, it still will not be the nice blue im looking for.. it will be more blue, but prob more green also( yellow and blue=green)
 

Roach

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Has anyone heard of the Aqua Connect 11k bulbs? They are German, but I don't know if they are any good? Anyone use em before?
 

yznhmr

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funny you say that.. i have a 13watt red nightlight that if it is on while the rest of the lights are on, then the color of the tank looks a little nicer..( only a little..)
my current delima is "do I buy 2 additional vhos and add them or buy 2 10k bulbs"
 

Nathan1

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Actually yellow + blue = white, not green. We're talking light, not reflective colours. Yellow can be made of pure yellow spectrum or a combination of red and green. If you add blue, you get red, green, blue which appears to our eyes as white.

I find the Iwasaki to be slightly greenish. If you add blue to greenish you get cyan, so I'm wondering if adding a red tube would produce a more true white. Just thinking out loud.

-Nathan
 

redneck

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by David Grigor:
<STRONG>IMO: 65K Bulb is the best option for 250W MH.

If you want a higher K bulb then you should step up to 400W to compensate for the lost intensity.....</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

He nailed it. The best advice you can get.
 

TazzBear

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Everyone on this post is correct is some way or other. I have tried all of these examples except Power Compacts. What has been left out is what has worked best with which system. So, here are my test/experiment results. I now have 3 complete 175MH setups using (IceCap, Hamilton, PFO ballasts) and 6500, 10K, 12Ksunburst, 20K bulbs. I have 3 complete 250MH PFO ballasts, 1 complete 400WMH Hamilton ballast with 6500, 10K, 20K, 3 complete 660IceCap VHO, 1 complete 430IceCap VHO, and 3 complete 250HQI PFO ballasts, 10K Ushio bulbs with a pendant systems. So, I have tried them all and they all work. One constant has been MH mixed with VHO's. Gees, I never have written down everything I have and man, what a mess. No wonder I am in debt. I know there are allot of reefers out there who swear by the 400WMH systems, but they are just not worth some of the related issues that come with them. Heat, electricity, and the mogule bulbs all have tremendous loss of PAR and CCT. And before anyone tries to tell me or ask me, I bought and tried all of these systems in the last year and a half. I had the 175MH Hamilton but replaced all the bulbs when I started this voyage. The VHO and lower watt MH work GREAT for macro algae's, sponges, LPS, and softies. You can grow SPS in this environment and they will do OK. They just don't color up as well. The 250WMH worked even better, but again, the UV issue and the color shift on mogul lamps leaves much to be desired. You can also grow SPS much better with this setup. The plating SPS did OK here, but really grow best for me under the HQI. By BEST, I mean the fastest growth rate, color intensity, and polyp extension. The HQI with VHO is what I have decided to run. The sparkle is fantastic, the blue is awesome and the CCT/PAR is closest to true ratings. My current experiment is running VHO with LPS, softies, and SPS frag grow out tanks. The polyp extension and growth rate has been phenomenal. I have 3 x 36" VHO on 30 gallon tanks and the lights are only 8 inches from these corals. While there is great growth, they are not as colorful as they are in the HQI or MH systems. One thing that I have noticed with the HQI's is the UV light reaches the bottom of my tank and buttons, mushrooms, and leathers seem to have more off days. They stay closed down more often in this setup. They used to only look this way once a month, now they do it once a week. So, may be to much UV for them. I have been moving them into other tanks. Also, which light to get. USHIO all the wayyyyyyyyyy. Sunburst, ok, Coralife ok, not sure if Blueline are worth mentioning, and the USHIO seem to be the closest visually to me, but don't forget Iwasaki. The photosythetically available radiation" (PAR region; 400 to 700 nm) of the lamp output for a new 6500 Iwasaki is 104 with cct "correlated color temperature" of 7457 and for a new Ushio 10K HQI is PAR 128 and 11,700 cct. Here is the rub on the Iwasaki, they are reduced on PAR to 40 and CCT of 6600 in one year. DAVE MORGAN AND SANJAY JOSHI provided this information on their web page. There is allot more info to review, so follow this link: http://www.animalnetwork.com/fish2/aqfm/1999/dec/features/2/default.asp
I do put my tank online with a digital camera so you can see what it looks like now with the 3 x 250HQI, 1 Actinic03 160Watt 1 50/50 160Watt VHO. If there is enough response, I would be happy to leave it online for the next few days/weeks. Only during the day though. My tank is in my living room and it is hard to work around the camera. By the way, has Hamilton fixed the electronic ballast issues where they need to be TUNED to the bulb? If not, you have to send the ballast with bulb to them to tune it. And when you changed bulbs, you had to send it in again. Right, tank without light while this is done. Most people don't have spare light sitting around for this nonsense. Don't forget about water quality. Even the best lighting can only light up what is in your tank. Weather it be cyno or a flourishing SPS tank. I also think it is funny, but this is just my $.02 worth. If I get blasted, as so many people tend to do on this forum, I again will remove my knowledge and $.02 worth for a while. Everything I said can be disputed or argued because these are living creatures and respond differently to every environment. If not, we would not need this forum to exchange knowledge.
 

Green Lantern

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I just read a thread on fishnet and if I have this correct Ushio, Hamilton and AB are manufactured by the same company. I could have misinterpreted the post's meaning so take it with a grain of salt.
 

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