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TNDave

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I have just built a custom canopy and am planning up upgrading my lights to 2x55W PC with one 48" long actinic NO flourescent. It is a 65 gallon tank 48" long.

I have seen many varying opinions on the board but cannot seem to get a good feeling on what I should do. If I do toss the glass tops, how far above the water should the lights be mounted?

Thanks for any help, as I am VERY confused right now!
 

FishDaddy

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Hi Dave,
Great to find another Knox. area reefer! I'm just up the road in Sevierville.
What are you planning to keep? IMHO, this would not be enough lighting for most corals. Mushrooms and some low-light softies might be all right but you really need more light for most corals.
For soft and most LPS, I prefer VHO lighting. I use an Ice Cap 660 electronic ballast which will run four 110w. bulbs over your tank. You can get a complete retro kit from Premium Aquatics for about $330, including bulbs. The Ice Cap will also run PC's if that is your preference. http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_ Code=PA&Category_Code=Icecapvhor
I run a 660 with 2x110w VHO plus a 40w NO and keep Frogspawn; Nepthea; Xenia; Colt and several other soft corals in my 55. One of these days I'll add a couple more VHO.
Glass tops inhibit cooling evaporation and oxygen/gas exchange. I keep my bulbs just above the water, right on top of the tank, with no heat problem at all.
HTH,
Dick
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[ August 15, 2001: Message edited by: FishDaddy ]
 

TNDave

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Hey FishDaddy!

Thanks for your response and help! Another question, do you not have to use reflectors with this VHO system, or are the internal reflectors in these bulbs sufficient? Also, is this a remote ballast? Have you had any interference problems with the IceCap ballast (I have read about some problems from some people).

Thanks again for your help!
 

FishDaddy

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Dave,
Ice Cap is a remote ballast. Mine is mounted on the wall of my stand, underneath the tank. I get no interference of any kind from mine. It's been running 2-1/2 yrs. with no problems.
Here's Ice Cap's site: http://www.icecapinc.com/
The URI bulbs that I use have built in reflectors but for maximum benefit a reflector inside the hood is better. Some just paint the inside of the hood white.
Dick
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cgbexec

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TNDave,

I agree with FishDaddy. Glass tops inhibit gas exchange, inhibit natural evaporation(which cools the tank) and collects salt and dust which in turn reduces the amount of light that gets into the tank. Without tops the only bulbs that I would worry about would be Metal Halide. These should be mounted 10" or higher above the water to avoid being splashed or they could explode. HQI Metal Halide require glass enclosures around the lights because of harmful UV emission. I currently run PC's and Metal Halides over an open tank. The bulbs are about 12 inches above the water. I do have 2 4.5inch fans to remove heat from the canopy. I use polished aluminum reflectors and the rest of the inside of the canopy is painted gloss white. Hope this helps.

Chris
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tomocean

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I shall be the voice of dissent in this discussion.
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I have a 75G with 4 X 96 Watt PCs in an ABS hood and I do cover the tank with glass tops. The hood is directly on top of the glass. Here are the reasons I decided to cover:
1. I wanted to keep firefish; which are notorious for their suicide jumps from uncovered tanks.
2. I have a large sump under the tank which still allows for evaporative cooling and gas exchange.
3. I do not want my tank to be exposed to every household chemical floating around, nor do I want my pet cockatiels to use the tank as a toilet.
4. I like the way a covered tank looks - much neater.
5. It is much quieter covered.
 

FishDaddy

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>nor do I want my pet cockatiels to use the tank as a toilet.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Heheheheheh....Tomocean, you have a good point there!!!!
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There are always exceptions to every generality.......I do have glass tops on my Chainlink Moray's tank to help keep him in the wet and off the carpet!
Dick
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