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theringnebula

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Dargason:

Look into LVL (laminated vrneer lumber) beams. They are the same size as standard 2x8's. I installed 4 12' beams of them under my 200 gallon tank and there was no bowing or deflection at all. They are made of a compressed wood product. Our contractor friend recommended them.

[ August 23, 2001: Message edited by: theringnebula ]
 

Dargason

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Yeah, my parent's house was made using those laminated beams, and I can attest to the fact they are strong.

During the construction, the subcontractor delivered all the wood (studs, roof framing, etc) and layed them on the subfloor. They didn't follow the contractor's directions, however, and they layed the wood parallel to the beams, so that only 2 of these held the entire weight of all the wood! The contractor estimated it was a couple tons. I'm sure it didn't do the beams any good, and it wasn't for very long, but they held.

I'll see if I can find them, but they didn't have any at home depot last time I looked. I'll try a different place.
 
A

Anonymous

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One good reason to choose acrylic, though I've only heard of this once: Julian Sprung (I'm pretty sure it was him) back when he frequented the CompuServe Fish Forum, had some type worm/annelid(sp?) eat through the silicon seal and drain a glass tank.

Since then I've regularly inspected the seams on all my tanks to look for burrowing activities.

FWIW

-Greg
 

gkrane

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acrylic may be inferior to glass in some aspects, but one undeniable fact is they are absolutely, positively, less prone to leakage and blowouts.
 

gkrane

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acrylic may be inferior to glass in some aspects, but one undeniable fact is they are absolutely, positively, less prone to leakage and blowouts.
 

REEFRON

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For what its worth, I just finished replacing my third Oceanic 150 in 8 months.
About 4 months after setting it up the center brace fell causing the front and back to bow. I had no idea that glass that thick could bow that far without breaking. When setting up the second tank the center brace cracked and Oceanic was good enough to replace it again at no charge. This time I had the tank about 2/3 full and was arranging my live rock at night so I had my lights on so I could see. Turns out that when the tank is not completely full the center brace can get hot enough to crack from MH's. Oceanic says that when a tank is full the center brace transfers heat to the water keeping it somewhat cool. What a great hobby!!!!!
 

Iron

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JFWI theres times when I read 1-2 post a month that ppl oceanics or aga tanks sprung a leak. Haven't read anything lately but My point is no only cheapy tanks are the ones that leak. I had 2 aga tanks leak on me.But I also had my 120g acylic carck on top but it was my fault for sitting on the tank. Guess it wasn't made for that but it was an easy fix. Glass takes more work. But I wouldn't choose a tank on how long they last. Just buy a quality one and whatever you like glass or acylic. They both have their +/-
 

Iron

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Theres no written data but many poster who have wrothe that there new tanks have leaked. The former owner of Reef central got a new tanl and it leaked in a few mo. He got another glass. Theres many post theres no data. Just like most things onBBoards not very much hard fact. But I've seen and had alot of glass leaks not my fault.I set my tanks dead nuts
 

M.E.Milz

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote
acrylic may be inferior to glass in some aspects, but one undeniable fact is they are absolutely, positively, less prone to leakage and blowouts

Why does everyone keep offering opinions as absolute facts?? Why is this undeniable??

Please, someone point me to at least one major failure of a large glass tank that did not result from some form of abuse (i.e., uneven stands, etc.). Make me see the light!

[ August 24, 2001: Message edited by: M.E.Milz ]
 

Dargason

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M.E. Miltz is right... I'd rather see some data in the form of statistics. Anyone know of any? Can we do a poll here?
 

nadz

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speaking of dead nuts...
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[ August 26, 2001: Message edited by: nadz ]
 

Dargason

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What's the best way to level the tank if it isn't quite dead nuts? Shims under the stand?

I'm worried that shims might create stress points in the stand, but what other choice is there?
 

Jon_Hewett_85

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I'd like to add a few comments here. There certainly is not a defining line between which is better for you. Much of it depends on your situation and what YOU want. Now on to a few facts. Having your tank level is very important. The give in an acyrlic tank will allot it to take more of an imballance than a glass tank. An imbalance is murder on a glass tank. As far as the durability on the seams of a glass tank.. they are MUCH stronger than they seem. On smaller tanks especially IME the silicon seals are stronger than the glass. In trying to get a 10g tank apart, the glass would break before the silicon would let go. The stuff is insanely strong. However if you own a glass tank and would like to prolong the life of your seals be EXTREMELY careful when say scraping your glass with a razor blade because it is very easy to nick/cut the seals. However being said even if you do cut/nick them i wouldn't worry too much as what is holding the tank togeher is not whats in the corners but is what is BEWTWEEN the glass. But i'm shure it would take a toll over time. I personally would never own an acrylic tank. Way too easy to scratch, scuff, gouge it. Had the lfs...a SNAIL in it's search for algea left a trail in the acrlic all the way across a 200+ gallon tank. Looked just like the ones in the algea but it was gouged into the acrylic. Have also seen many acrlic tanks that even after a few years are all scrathed up. Even a few with large gouges missing. But thats just me
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It all depends on your situation and preferences.
 

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