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Anonymous

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Just got my electronic temp probe, Salifert Ca and Alk test kits, and B-Ionic 2-part supplement system in the mail today.

My tank has looked like crap, so I'm starting the recovery today. Here are my current parameters :

pH - 8.6
Calcium - 370
Alk - 1.14 meq/l
Salinity - 1.029 (!!!)
Temp - 80.5F
Ammonia - 0ppm
Nitrite - 0ppm
Nitrate - 10ppm

The tank is a 75 gallon reef, set up in January of 2001. Currently using/housing the following :

3" sand bed
120lbs live rock
wet/dry filter with bio-balls removed (currently housing 20 lbs live rock and a 3" picasso trigger) :)
Seaclone skimmer (temp backup, as the Rio pump on my Aqua-C Remora Pro kicked early last week...no cash for a new pump right now)

pair of percula clowns
pair of firefish
sixline wrasse
banggai cardinal
tiger goby
blood shrimp
peppermint shrimp

2 anemones (LT and bubbletip)
2 sponges (red, orange tree)
4 LPS (hammer, torch, octopus, candy cane)
4 gorgonians (2 purple, yellow, red)
various softies (about 10 or so)
misc (caulerpa, dusters, etc)

Everything is in kind of a state of disarray, except for the fish, who seem healthy. There is detrius/sediment everywhere, some red slime, and air bubbles where the algae has taken hold. The corals are all in varying degrees of 'health'...with the best looking ones being the torch, octopus, candy-cane, and yellow polyps. All the gorgonians look like crap.

I'd love some recommendations on what to do to start recovery here. My tank sucks, IMHO, but I'd like to make the effort to get things to where they should.

I started the B-Ionic today given what was read with the new Salifert test kits.

Any ideas on how to get the SG and pH to where they should be?

Oh, I also have an RO unit, but recently had to add tap water in an emergency, so algae was thick on the glass until I cleaned tonight.

Thanks in advance, and if there's any parameter I left out, please ask for the info.

Peace,

Chip

[ August 28, 2001: Message edited by: marillion ]
 
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Anonymous

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Some frequent water changes (where the replacement water has the desired parameters) would be a good start.

What happened?
 

imow

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(chanting) Water Change!! Water Change!!

This would be a good place to start. Make sure SG of the change water is where you want it. I would do this first b4 adding anything (bionic) to the tank. This will also help lower your pH, and remove some of the phosphates introduced with the tap.

Sorry Cheesy, we must have posted at the same time.

[ August 28, 2001: Message edited by: imow ]
 
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Anonymous

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I was the one that had the trouble with the heatwave, which turned out to have a more than a few straggling effects on the tank. I ended up losing quite a bit of stuff, and the animals lost after I posted my large list to the board here included :

cleaner shrimp
coral beauty
purple-tip acropora
yellow figi leather

My GSP also never seemed to recover, and seem to be dead now. These are in addition to the 15 or so corals I lost that I posted about before.

How much of a water change should I do? And am I correct in interpreting that I should do one at 1.025 SG (where I want the tank) instead of adding fresh RO to bring the salinity down?

Thanks.

Peace,

Chip

[ August 28, 2001: Message edited by: marillion ]
 
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Anonymous

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by marillion:
<STRONG>How much of a water change should I do? And am I correct in interpreting that I should do one at 1.025 SG (where I want the tank) instead of adding fresh RO to bring the salinity down?
</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Several good water changes (say 20% volume each) at the salinity you want should bring the overall salinity down slowly, which is better to avoid stressing your already-stressed inhabitants.
 
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Anonymous

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My posts never get a lot of replies...

Anyone else have advice for me beyond the water changes? Please?

Thanks.

Peace,

Chip
 

Lefty1

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Chip,

I think there is no quick fix.

The best advice I can come up with is to get your param's back in line and keep them there. The water changes are a good way to help get the params in line. Then you wait while everything gets better. It may take a while. Hang in there and keep on top of things and stuff should slowly get better.

RR
icon_biggrin.gif
 

theonella

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Water changes are certainly in order, I do have a concern about your water source though. You mention using RO water, does the unit have a conductivity meter on it to let you know if the water you are producing is pure? When was the last time you changed the membrane? I ask this because at a nitrate level of 10 ppm, I have never had problems with bad algae of any kind. The only time I ever had problems with algae was when I wasn't using high quality RO/DI water. In terms of your algae problem, it probably won't help to do water changes with SW made with high phosphate/silicate, possibly nitrate water, although I would certainly suggest water changes using pure water.
 

Bobzarry

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I would only do one thing different than the above posts. Before each water change I would run a diatom filter with carbon. This will help remove some of the toxins that may be getting produced from so much die off. It should help maximise the benefits from your water changes.


Bob
 
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Anonymous

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by theonella:
<STRONG>Water changes are certainly in order, I do have a concern about your water source though. You mention using RO water, does the unit have a conductivity meter on it to let you know if the water you are producing is pure? When was the last time you changed the membrane? I ask this because at a nitrate level of 10 ppm, I have never had problems with bad algae of any kind. The only time I ever had problems with algae was when I wasn't using high quality RO/DI water. In terms of your algae problem, it probably won't help to do water changes with SW made with high phosphate/silicate, possibly nitrate water, although I would certainly suggest water changes using pure water.</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The RO unit is brand new, so I'm not worried about the membrane. I also tested the water out of it after it had been used a few times, and both nitrate and phosphate were at 0ppm. The reason the 'bad algae' showed up is because I had not been around as much, and therefore would have to top off with tap water instead of RO. I have now re-arranged my schedule to do regular maintenance on the water changes & top-off, so I can run the RO unit again.

Peace,

Chip

[ August 29, 2001: Message edited by: marillion ]
 
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Anonymous

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Lefty:
<STRONG>Chip,

I think there is no quick fix.

The best advice I can come up with is to get your param's back in line and keep them there. The water changes are a good way to help get the params in line. Then you wait while everything gets better. It may take a while. Hang in there and keep on top of things and stuff should slowly get better.

RR
icon_biggrin.gif
</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yeah, I know that, especially in reef-keeping and aquaria in general, that patience ultimately rules in the end.
icon_biggrin.gif


Was just looking for other techniques or methods I should be applying so I have all my bases covered.

Thanks for the support.

Peace,

Chip
 
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Anonymous

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Bobzarry:
<STRONG>I would only do one thing different than the above posts. Before each water change I would run a diatom filter with carbon. This will help remove some of the toxins that may be getting produced from so much die off. It should help maximise the benefits from your water changes.
Bob</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Can you explain what a 'diatom' filter is? I do have a small HOB filter I can apply to the sump that I can run some carbon on, and I also have a container of reef carbon that I can drop a bag of into the sump. Let me know if either of these is do-able.

Thanks.

Peace,

Chip
 

Bobzarry

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A diatom filter such as those made by Vortex uses a a bag that is covered by a diatom powder(the sceletal remains of diatoms) the powder it self does the actual filtration and filters down to 5 microns. Vortex also sells an activated carbon powder to be used together with the diatom powder. together these realy polish your water. So that when you do your water change youl gain maximum benefits IMO.


Bob
 

tomocean

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I think the water changes with a gradual shift to a lower Ph and SG are a great place to start. I'd also try to remove as much of the nuisance algae as possible by hand. That will help get out some of the excess nutrients. You might even consider some macroalgae in your sump to help with the nutrient removal. Just take your time and keep up with the maintenance and I bet things will come around in time. Hopefully you won't get hit by anymore heat waves.
 

kjb

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I recently had a big problem too, and was fortunate to have a friend give me some nice chuncks of heathy LR, some LS and some caulerpa. I believe these additions really helped get things going in the right direction again.
Although I don't know how much or if any of your LR/LS died, it would still probably be a help to go get whatever you can.
I am very, very slowly adding as many critters like snails, crabs, and worms as I can afford.
 

esmithiii

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In addition to the water changes already mentioned, I would add a few points:

1. You can slowly add RO water to lower the salinity to 1.026 (the salinity of NSW near most reefs) like a gallon at a time every couple hours or so.

2. Your tank is still young. It is common to have blooms up until the year mark. Using good RO/DI will help, as will a good skimmer and a 4-6" sand bed.

3. Regular water changes (not just for recovery) will also help

4. Dosing Kalkwasser also helps to keep nuisance algae away.

Hope this helps! Keep us "posted" (excuse the pun...)
 

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