Reservations about auto-topoff direct from R/O...

[monkeyboy]

My tank is losing around 2 gallons a day and should only increase its evaporation once i add a fan across the top to keep it cool. It would be very easy to connect a float valve directly to my sump from the r/o but what are the chances if any of it getting stuck in the on position? I may just be being too cautious but how many of you have auto-topoff from a source that WILL NOT STOP if the float should fail?

 

[Anonymous]

Monk:

We normally recommend that people use the Float-valves to keep their water resevoir full and for the ultimate fail-safe have the resevoir plumbed so that excess water will flow into a drain. Then use a product like Spectrapure's Liter Meter to control the top-off of your tank. The Liter Meter uses a pressure switch to control the water level but has the further fail-safe that you can tell it to only pump a set amount of water a day.

[ November 24, 2001: Message edited by: MickAv8r ]</p>

 

[monkeyboy]

Ahhh, never thought about some type of drain... hmmm...

 

[Anonymous]

I use the Kent float valves for top off and Ro water storage. Anything can fail. You have to analyze what the failure potential is and decide what you want to do. Your tank can crack, a pump can short out, and a float valve can stick. The only people I have read about with problems using float valves is if they also add kalk with the top off water. It will cause a build up on the valve and it will leak. I have been using the float valves for about two years now without a problem. I do check them every 3-4 months, but both are still working fine. At the same time, I have had anti-siphon holes plug with salt and build up that presented a larger spill problem than a float valve. Your choice, but the float valves require no power, are very inexpensive and the installation is simple and easy to maintain.

 

[esmithiii]

There are many options here. I have a 12 Gal top off resevoir with a pump connected to a float switch in my sump. If the switch sticks (it has before) then the 12 gallons is not enough to overflow the sump. I have to manually add water to the top off resevoir, though. This solution provides a manual check to verify that the system is working correctly.

Ernie

 

[Anonymous]

I run several "kent float valves" in my sumps, direct from the RO/DI. They are very convienient.

Yes, they can fail. I have had them fail with age. It is usually due to the small flexible material, that actually closes the connection, wearing with age and exposure to salt.

I keep a couple around for backup, just in case.

 

[Anonymous]

I concure with big_fish.

You do need the autoshutoff kit with the kind of setup I run.

 

[monkeyboy]

I have the auto-shutoff already for filling my RO barrel, so all i'd need was an additional float. Well, maybe i'll order a spare one also for when the time comes. I have a pressure switch hanging around also but i don't really trust that after playing with it turning on a lamp, seemed like there was a large room for error. I like the idea of having a resevoir that i'd have to manually fill up but it seems the risks of either set-up are comparable, so i'll do the float directly in the sump.

Thanks for all the replies!

 

[chris_h]

I use a float valve. It works good. When I used to use Kalkwasser it clogged up so it may not be good for Kalkwasser.

 

[Big_fish]

Another issue with just using a float valve is that water still runs through your prefilters unless you have the whole kit that shuts off the feed water. It will definitely shorten the life of your prefilters.
Regards,
Scott

 

[mweber]

I have a solenoid valve on my float line that only opens 4 times per day for 30 min. thus limiting the water just incase my float sticks.