My website had a facelift
- Thread starter Super Len
- Start date
Very nice setup and a nice site. Thanks for sharing your tank.
I'm trying to imagine how you've got your reef structure rockscaped. It kind of looks to me like you have a nice gap in the front where there's the sand only, and then the rockwork gradually slopes up towards the back, the highest part of the reef being at the back. How much space have you got behind your reef, is there any space back there or does the rock actually go right up to the backplane?
(I'm in the process of setting up my new tank and am trying to design a nice reef structure this time around, my first tank was more hodge-podge and ended up more like a brick wall than anything else.)
PS. What is the "Grotto" and what is the "Reef flat"? Are these different zones in your tank or different tanks altogether? I apologize if this is explained already somewhere on your site and I just missed it.
I'm trying to imagine how you've got your reef structure rockscaped. It kind of looks to me like you have a nice gap in the front where there's the sand only, and then the rockwork gradually slopes up towards the back, the highest part of the reef being at the back. How much space have you got behind your reef, is there any space back there or does the rock actually go right up to the backplane?
(I'm in the process of setting up my new tank and am trying to design a nice reef structure this time around, my first tank was more hodge-podge and ended up more like a brick wall than anything else.)
PS. What is the "Grotto" and what is the "Reef flat"? Are these different zones in your tank or different tanks altogether? I apologize if this is explained already somewhere on your site and I just missed it.
Thanks for the compliments.
I added more descriptions to my photo galleries per requests.
Tony, the rock structure runs all the way to the back glass. There are very large caves and passage ways through the entire tank (e.g below the big green Acropora staghorn is a massive cave). It's not just a mound of rocks.
The Grotto and Reef Flat are just zones in tank that I decided to give descriptive names to. The Grotto is a spur and groove formation on the right side of the tank, with a big overhang shadowing the area. The Reef Flat is the top left corner of my tank that is closest to my halides, and is bombarded with ~1000 gph of water movement via a Iwaki/Sea Swirl.
If I could redo my tank, I would've created a more open structure, with less rock. Of course, that would also mean a lot less corals
I need a larger tank
I added more descriptions to my photo galleries per requests.
Tony, the rock structure runs all the way to the back glass. There are very large caves and passage ways through the entire tank (e.g below the big green Acropora staghorn is a massive cave). It's not just a mound of rocks.
The Grotto and Reef Flat are just zones in tank that I decided to give descriptive names to. The Grotto is a spur and groove formation on the right side of the tank, with a big overhang shadowing the area. The Reef Flat is the top left corner of my tank that is closest to my halides, and is bombarded with ~1000 gph of water movement via a Iwaki/Sea Swirl.
If I could redo my tank, I would've created a more open structure, with less rock. Of course, that would also mean a lot less corals
Erm Len, your tank is incredible, nice one. Love that blue and red cats eye, pitty there illegal over here in good old blighty (England). Still i doubt if customs could spot one
. Just wondering about your lighting, you seem to have loads of it. I was thinking about having 4 x 250W 13,000k bulbs over a 7" x 24' x 24'. These would be supplimented by 4 55w PC's Actinics. Do you think these bulbs will produce simmilar results to yours or should i go with double ended 250's. I await your answer with baited breath oh salty one.
P.S. i have also noticed you have sea swirls and Tunze centrafugal's. Both of which are my top choices. Im recently leaning towards the SeaSwirls on a closed loop, what do you recomend.
P.P.S. Whats all this {SQUAT} beezwax.
[ November 29, 2001: Message edited by: Mouse ]
[ November 29, 2001: Message edited by: Mouse ]</p>
P.S. i have also noticed you have sea swirls and Tunze centrafugal's. Both of which are my top choices. Im recently leaning towards the SeaSwirls on a closed loop, what do you recomend.
P.P.S. Whats all this {SQUAT} beezwax.
[ November 29, 2001: Message edited by: Mouse ]
[ November 29, 2001: Message edited by: Mouse ]</p>
Mouse,
I'd definately go with double ended HQI 250 watt 10,000K metal halides (whew!). They produce the greatest light intensity per watt for any metal halide bulb I know are avaiable.
I'm unfamiliar with the 13,000K bulb, since they're not readily available here in the States. However, from the reports I've read, it is a double ended HQI bulb, much like the 10,000K bulbs manufactured by Osram/Sylvania. Spectral analysis of the Osram bulb showed it radiated light close to 13,000K; this might indicate the 13,000K bulb is nothing more then a repackaged/relabelled 10,000K bulb.
If it costs more, I'd just go with the double ended 10,000K. If it's not HQI, I'd definately go with the 10,000K.
I like both the Tunze and the Sea Swirl. If buying a sea swirl, I suggest multiple 3/4" units vs a 1" unit (like mine). With the larger motor it uses, they're mildly noisy. Sea Swirls are very reliable, unlike their terrible predecessors, the Aquagate I & II. Tunze, of course, makes quality pumps. It's a shame manufacturers here in the States can't make such high performance, reliable powerheads. In other words, you can't go wrong with either.
As for {squat}, you'll know when you reach 1000 posts
It's a little (and pointless, as most things are
) "The Sump" inside reference.
I'd definately go with double ended HQI 250 watt 10,000K metal halides (whew!). They produce the greatest light intensity per watt for any metal halide bulb I know are avaiable.
I'm unfamiliar with the 13,000K bulb, since they're not readily available here in the States. However, from the reports I've read, it is a double ended HQI bulb, much like the 10,000K bulbs manufactured by Osram/Sylvania. Spectral analysis of the Osram bulb showed it radiated light close to 13,000K; this might indicate the 13,000K bulb is nothing more then a repackaged/relabelled 10,000K bulb.
If it costs more, I'd just go with the double ended 10,000K. If it's not HQI, I'd definately go with the 10,000K.
I like both the Tunze and the Sea Swirl. If buying a sea swirl, I suggest multiple 3/4" units vs a 1" unit (like mine). With the larger motor it uses, they're mildly noisy. Sea Swirls are very reliable, unlike their terrible predecessors, the Aquagate I & II. Tunze, of course, makes quality pumps. It's a shame manufacturers here in the States can't make such high performance, reliable powerheads. In other words, you can't go wrong with either.
As for {squat}, you'll know when you reach 1000 posts
Very impressive!!! I have been having troubles taking successful pics of my tank. What camera equipment do you use? What lighting do you use while taking pics? What kind of software are you using to build/maintain your site? Do you have to pay to get a url? How about website hosting, how does that work?
Please email me. I would like to build a personal website to share with my family and friends, but I want to use the right tools. Any help you could offer would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Scott
Please email me. I would like to build a personal website to share with my family and friends, but I want to use the right tools. Any help you could offer would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Scott
HQI = Halogen Quartz Iodide. It's a technology of metal halide lighting that uses a specific bulb and ballast type to light the lamp different then conventional halides. HQI ballasts use ignitors to burn HQI bulbs, which equates to greater light intensity per watt and possibily longer bulb life span. Tests performed show HQI technology radiates more PAR and absolute lumens compared to standard "magnetic-type" metal halides. HQI usually uses double ended bulbs, but not always.
Leonard,
(BTW thanks for the work-avoidance, for some reason I keep surfing back to your site again and again....)
A couple more questions for ya ... one, you have a lot of corals packed together. Do you have any problems with corals battling it out for elbow room? For example I can't have anything with 4" of my bubble coral or else it will send out its sweeper tentacles and start stinging things. You have things a lot closer than that to yours (or so it looks), did I just get an unfriendly coral? Or are there some things that bubble corals don't care about and those are the ones you can pack in pretty close?
And my other question is I'm wondering if you did anything to hold adjacent rocks together, or if you just took the time and found how each piece would sit well without shifting? Or do you help them, and if so, how? (with glue, or cable ties, or ...?)
Thanks
(BTW thanks for the work-avoidance, for some reason I keep surfing back to your site again and again....)
A couple more questions for ya ... one, you have a lot of corals packed together. Do you have any problems with corals battling it out for elbow room? For example I can't have anything with 4" of my bubble coral or else it will send out its sweeper tentacles and start stinging things. You have things a lot closer than that to yours (or so it looks), did I just get an unfriendly coral? Or are there some things that bubble corals don't care about and those are the ones you can pack in pretty close?
And my other question is I'm wondering if you did anything to hold adjacent rocks together, or if you just took the time and found how each piece would sit well without shifting? Or do you help them, and if so, how? (with glue, or cable ties, or ...?)
Thanks
Through the past decade, I've learned which species in my systems will tolerate which other species. I didn't intend on packing the aquarium so full, but things grow, and I didn't plan well ahead of time; I have to constantly prune corals nowadays to prevent them from overgrowing their neighbor or self-shading.
I make it point to buy corals that are not overly aggression (ie sends out long sweepers). The only two exceptions to this rule are my bubble and torch corals. My bubble has been relocated and is far enough not to disturb anyone for at least a year's growth. My torch is taking over the right bottom of the tank, but I've given it room and antipicate I have another year before I have to worry (I may try fragging it then, or getting a 20-40 gallon tank dedicated for it). The rest of my corals are all fraggable/cuttable. I keep things pruned when necessary, and let them compete naturally if I know they can't kill each other (most SPS I allow to do this).
As for my rocks, I spent over 12 hours doing the initial aquascaping to 1. make sure things look the way I want them to and 2. make sure things were relatively secure on their own weight. I then epoxied critial joints. Note that the rock formation is slowly shifting due to erosion of the live rock. Some things are noticably displaced, usually sagging a bit here and there. I've had one structural failure over the last 6 years on the left side of the tank. Other then that, it's held up well (even against small quakes).
I make it point to buy corals that are not overly aggression (ie sends out long sweepers). The only two exceptions to this rule are my bubble and torch corals. My bubble has been relocated and is far enough not to disturb anyone for at least a year's growth. My torch is taking over the right bottom of the tank, but I've given it room and antipicate I have another year before I have to worry (I may try fragging it then, or getting a 20-40 gallon tank dedicated for it). The rest of my corals are all fraggable/cuttable. I keep things pruned when necessary, and let them compete naturally if I know they can't kill each other (most SPS I allow to do this).
As for my rocks, I spent over 12 hours doing the initial aquascaping to 1. make sure things look the way I want them to and 2. make sure things were relatively secure on their own weight. I then epoxied critial joints. Note that the rock formation is slowly shifting due to erosion of the live rock. Some things are noticably displaced, usually sagging a bit here and there. I've had one structural failure over the last 6 years on the left side of the tank. Other then that, it's held up well (even against small quakes).
Leonard v2.01b I was wondering, what kind of camera were you using to do the photography?
And that Black tang is it hard to care for? Or is it really similiar to the yellow tang?
One more thing, that purple sabae anemone was it hard to find, and is it hard to keep?
Thanks,
Circa
And that Black tang is it hard to care for? Or is it really similiar to the yellow tang?
One more thing, that purple sabae anemone was it hard to find, and is it hard to keep?
Thanks,
Circa
Circa,
The primary camera is an older Fuji MX2700. I used the Nikon 995 on a few shots; great camera, but unfortunately, I don't own one.
The black tang is on par with the yellow tang in terms of care and hardiness. It's a viscious tang that'll attack every other acanthurid (more so then other Zebrasoma sp. I know, except the Z.xanthurum). Mine is particularly susceptible to ich due to temperature flucuations, so I went out and got a chiller.
Sebaes aren't hardy, and I would generally advise people to avoid them. If you do want to go with a H.crispa, buy one that is solid in color (brown, purple, etc.). The bright yellow and pink ones are usually dyed, and the tipped ones may be bleached. NB some are naturally light colored with tips, but it's hard to differeniate. I got mine as an "apology" from a mail order vendor that sent me a wrong fish. It came as a quarter-sized anemone, and was missing for the first few months. It finally settled down in the current location, and has grown into a healthy 10" anemone. It has never moved, even though it is partially shaded. I can't be happier with this anemone.
The primary camera is an older Fuji MX2700. I used the Nikon 995 on a few shots; great camera, but unfortunately, I don't own one.
The black tang is on par with the yellow tang in terms of care and hardiness. It's a viscious tang that'll attack every other acanthurid (more so then other Zebrasoma sp. I know, except the Z.xanthurum). Mine is particularly susceptible to ich due to temperature flucuations, so I went out and got a chiller.
Sebaes aren't hardy, and I would generally advise people to avoid them. If you do want to go with a H.crispa, buy one that is solid in color (brown, purple, etc.). The bright yellow and pink ones are usually dyed, and the tipped ones may be bleached. NB some are naturally light colored with tips, but it's hard to differeniate. I got mine as an "apology" from a mail order vendor that sent me a wrong fish. It came as a quarter-sized anemone, and was missing for the first few months. It finally settled down in the current location, and has grown into a healthy 10" anemone. It has never moved, even though it is partially shaded. I can't be happier with this anemone.
Len,
Just wanted to take a moment to comment on your site as well as your input. Your site is fantastic and I have been goiong back to it time and again. I am building my first site at the moment and your is a great on to try to follow. I will bet it took a lot of time to create.
I also wanted to point out that I really appreciate your taking the time to answer, in detail, everyones questions. It is obvious that you have much to share and I know I and many others are eager to read. Simple things like rock work and short commings are often gawfed at by the "self appointed pros". I have been messing with fish for a few years but as for reefs I am only going into my second year. I feel I have alot to learn and always like it when there is a good teacher available. Anyway, thanks for taking the time. It is appreciated...
Just wanted to take a moment to comment on your site as well as your input. Your site is fantastic and I have been goiong back to it time and again. I am building my first site at the moment and your is a great on to try to follow. I will bet it took a lot of time to create.
I also wanted to point out that I really appreciate your taking the time to answer, in detail, everyones questions. It is obvious that you have much to share and I know I and many others are eager to read. Simple things like rock work and short commings are often gawfed at by the "self appointed pros". I have been messing with fish for a few years but as for reefs I am only going into my second year. I feel I have alot to learn and always like it when there is a good teacher available. Anyway, thanks for taking the time. It is appreciated...
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