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Anonymous

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How many of you dose B-Ionic? If so, do you dose anything else? Have you used it in the past and switched to something else? Interested in thoughts/opinions.
 

Gatortailale1

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Others on this board can explain it far better than I can, but I'll tell you what I know about B.

It is an ionic balanced method of replacing trace elements that corals and other critters in your tank use up over time, or get skimmed out. Ex. calcium gets used in coralline algae, clam shells and coral skeletons. As for other chemicals, some act as buffers to help keep your PH at acceptable levels.

Furthermore, IMO it will save you money. I was trying to dose from like 4-5 diff. chemical bottles guessing whether I added too much of one or whether I need more or less iodine. (yes I test the major ones, but few peeps test iodine, magnesium and strontium) PLUS LFS love to sell you individual chemicals because they can make more profit = charge you $7-20 per chemical x 5 chems = $100+ vs. say $28 (plus 10 shipping from championlighting) for a 2 x2 gal of B-ionic that will last you just as long.
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Anonymous

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How many of you dose B-Ionic?

Me.

If so, do you dose anything else?

Kalkwasser occasionally, but only bi-onic regularly.

Have you used it in the past and switched to something else?

I'll use bi-onic and c-balance pretty much interchangeably. Almost the same, just one was put together by Bob Stark and the other by Craig Bingman.

what does b-Ionic do for your reef?

It's a balanced alkalinity and calcium supplement. It also provides a couple of other traces elements (magnesium and strontium, I believe) but primarily it's for keeping both alk and ca in line.
 

tim000

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what would be better to do;
a. drip kalk
b. just use b-ionic

I have been thinking about adding calcium to my reef but i'm just unsure on how I should go about doing it.
 
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Anonymous

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Both kalk and bi-onic can work, but both have their issues. The two part additives are more expensive. On a large tank, or a tank with lots and lots of calcium demand, the cost of dosing bi-onic is significant.

On the other hand, kalk requires a drip dosing mechanism of some kind, must be prepared in advance and frequently, and finally it's limited by the amount of evaporation your tank has. If you check out the old Aquarium Frontier's site, look for a column of Craig Bingman's entitled 'The Limits of Limewater'. It'll give you an idea as to wether kalk on it's own would be sufficient to keep up with calcium demand in your tank.
 

Gatortailale1

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depends on what corals you have in tank right now and future plans. IMO unless you have SPS or clams, you don't really need to drip kalk. (Depends on calcium demand of tank)

ALSO: On B-ionic instructions, they say you can drip kalk and use B, just use 1/2 less of B you normally would. This would + win win for you - cost you less over time since using less B. (Price of Kalk powder less than price of B) This is what I have been doing last 4 months. I will be bringing online a calcium reactor this coming weekend. (weeeeeeeeeeee, no more drip drip drip)
 
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Anonymous

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Gatortailale:
<strong>If memory serves me correctly</strong><hr></blockquote>

Iron Reefer! lol
 

Gatortailale1

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RHF: see below on KALK

ESV WEB PAGE:

"Our recommended starting dose is 1 ml. of each component per 4 gallons of aquarium capacity per day. Maintain alkalinity between 3.0 and 3.75 meq/liter (8.4 and 10.5 dKH) by testing daily and adjusting dose accordingly. Depending on the degree of calcification occurring in the aquarium, dose may have to be significantly increased over our recommended starting dose. Never add more than 1 ml. per gallon of each component in a 24 hour period, and never allow pH to rise above 8.45. Once the proper dose has been determined for your aquarium, testing can be performed less frequently. If your aquarium tends to run at a higher pH (over 8.45) we suggest you try our B-Ionic Calcium Bicarbonate System. NOTE:
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When using kalkwasser in addition to B-Ionic Calcium Buffer System, follow the above procedure but start with 1 ml of each component per 8 gallons of aquarium capacity per day. For more detailed directions please refer to our product label.
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Source: ESV Web: http://www.esvco.com/prod6.htm

Not trying to be jerk. Just repeating what I read on label.
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randy holmes-farley

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Gator:

Ahhhh, I see my problem. You were abbreviating B-ionic as "B". I thought you were referring to part "B" only. I know B-ionic comes as parts 1 and 2, but some of the two parters come as A and B, and I mistakenly assumed that you meant only part B in your sentence "...just use 1/2 less of B you normally would." Sorry for the confusion.

Sure, many people (myself included) have combined B-ionic with limewater.
 

Gatortailale1

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RHF:
Were cool.
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I was confused too to see someone with as many posts as you questioning use of B-ionic and kalk together.

Must be the lack of sleep from new baby that has caused me to speak in half sentences. (wait I did that before baby came ha ha)
 

stilmas

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I use it also. My Ca demand isn't that high so using B-Ionic is very affordable. It keeps my Ca and Alk right at NSW (Alk=8.6dkh Ca=450) with only dosing when levels drop.
 

tim000

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right now I just have a few mushrooms and xenia in a 35g reef, along with 40# LR and a DSB. I plan on adding more ASAP, like leathers an open brain ect. how long do u think the 36oz bottle of b-ionic would last for my tank?
thanks alot
 

Gatortailale1

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If memory serves me correctly, I think you start dosing at 1 ml per 4 gal. (30 ml = 1oz or close to it) I Would dose 6-7 ml to start = (4 x 8=32) but you lose some water volume with DSB and rock. Then test alk and calcium following morning and adjust level up or down depending on test.

So say 4 days to use 1 oz. x 36 oz bottle = 144 days at starting strength. [4 x 7ml =28 = almost a oz] NOTE: could be lost less if calcium demand goes up and you does more. (Not a math wizard either ha ha)
 

randy holmes-farley

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Gator:

< ALSO: On B-ionic instructions, they say you can drip kalk and use B, just use 1/2 less of B you normally would. >

I'm really surprised that they claim this. In what circumstance? Maybe for some unusual corrective action? For normal calcium and alkalinity maintenance, it's a profoundly bad thing to do (unles you monitor both calcium and alkalinity frequently, even so it shouldn't even be possible to keep this up long term).

[ December 05, 2001: Message edited by: Randy Holmes-Farley ]</p>
 

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