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KMTaquarium

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Total watts -Kit description -Cost -RBC
384 -4x96 watt PC’s -370 -200
576 -6x96 watt PC’s -555 -300
640 -4x160watt 72” VHO -400 -140
960 -6x160watt 72” VHO -600 -210
525 -3x175watt MH -558 -270
500 -2x250watt MH -434 -200
750 -3x250watt MH -651 -300
800 -2x400watt MH -502 -220
Actinic supplements(2x72” 160 watt VHO) for MH’s = 200

MHs come with 12KK sunburst
VHOs are with 50/50s and actinics(2/2 or 3/3)
PCs are the smartlights(10k/actinic)
RBC= replacement bulbs cost

i want to keep a multitude of corals in my 150 if i get it- but dont know what lighting to get, i have lloked at many!! and want input!
from softies- likt colts and leathers to acros, hynos, montis, and poccilis, and tome more SPS LPS
give me your $.02!!
thanks to all that reply!
-kevin
 

danmhippo

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This is my setup, I have 150G as well

2 x 400W 20K MH

If I am doing it again, I would go with 3x400W MH. My tank is deeper then most 150G's. My tank is 5 feet long versus most 150G's are 6 feet long.
 

Anemone

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IMO, 3x250 would be the minimum to allow you to keep a wide range of corals and inverts. If you can afford the upgrade, I'd get the 3x400.

Kevin
 

KMTaquarium

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i would buy hte 2x400's and one 250 bulb for my 250 watt retro i already own- would save me about 100$

but i dont know if 2x400's and a 250 would look right?
put hte 250 in the middle and 2 400s on hte outside?
 

KMTaquarium

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heres my set up and costs currently: and links!
150 tank: 430 - LFS
150 rod iron stand+paint: 160 - LFS(paint is rustoleum and will prevent rust and premature failure of stand due to rust)
135(3x45lbs) fiji, 24 tonga branch LR w/ shipping: 706.85 (pre cured) - http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/scat ... pCatId=393
LS(35 lbs of live sand agra-mix and non-live aragmix about $1.33 a lb(30lbs = $40 )): some where around $150-$200 - LFS
remora pro skimmer w/ mag 350 $230 - http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant ... Code=AquaC
2x300watt heaters: $60 - http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant ... de=Heaters
Big temp thermometer: $30 http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant ... ermometers
5 300 GPH Powerheads: $100 - http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant ... de=Maxijet
Lighting(2x400watters with 12KK's and a 250 12kk's bulb(for pre owned 250 retro that used to be used on my 30G before i downgraded- bought from same place)): $600(including 2x24"reflectors)- http://aquaticlight.com/retrofit.html
canopy plus stand cover and lighting wiring: $30(stand cover is going to be stained wood to cover the rod iron stand)and used on canopy
total: $~2500
 

danmhippo

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Huh, your numbers looked much better then mine.. :D

If you place your MHs closer together, 400W light on either side will overlap 250's light and you shouldn't notice any drastic differences. PC's will not be a good choice for you as their light penetration isn't as strong.
 

KMTaquarium

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out of curiosity what was worse about yours??- to help me and those reading this post wanting to get into the hobby?
 

danmhippo

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Heh.....
My tank is all glass custom made --700
Stand us custom height 43" --400
Skimmer AquaC --250, which later sold for much cheaper price for going skimmerless.
400W MH Pendant $750.

Plus countless stupid errors --priceless.

Oh, I forgot to add: Bandages and gauze --$20
 

KMTaquarium

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danmhippo":23s6drzz said:
Heh.....
My tank is all glass custom made --700
Stand us custom height 43" --400
Skimmer AquaC --250, which later sold for much cheaper price for going skimmerless.
400W MH Pendant $750.

Plus countless stupid errors --priceless.

Oh, I forgot to add: Bandages and gauze --$20

the custom made stuff is what usually kills/ hurts most people- since i am working on a limited budget i got with standard mass produced aquariums- nothing is wrong or bad about customs, since they make your aquarium unique to itself and you- but htey are expensive,
my aquarium will probably sit parallel to the wall enabling double sided viewing- so a standar stand wouldn't work- or you would have a big hole on one side(what usually faces the back) and i would cover the stand in stained particle board to match canopy or vise-versa
and i barely have enough to afford $2500 for set up, so retro fit lighting was a MUST- it is no different than a pendant except that it must be enclosed in a canopy, and by saying no different- the overall lighting of the aquarium will be equal if comparing a retro to hood/pendant-
oh and the countless errors and mistakes- thatswhy im spending 30$'s on a thermometer- if my system setup wit hall corals and fish will be 3Grand+ then im buying one with an audible alert- i wen out of town as a day trip and someone was home- i usually check hte temps in my aq's and always do it now- but when i got home the heater FU**ed up and temp was up to 95*F-i lost about $100's worth of coral so having an audible thermometer is worth a hundred time the cost of the damages in a 150 gallon aquarium
-kevin
 

Marcosreef

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How about spending a bit more and getting a Temp Controller? The alert thermometer is great, but you still need something to shut it off if you are not home or around.

Spending thousands of dollars, I would consider it "cheap" insurance IMO! Regards, Marco
 
A

Anonymous

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I would be afraid of a wrought iron stand when you are dealing with that much weight.

Much safer to instead get a custom stand made to handle it. Lots of money invested, why not protect the investment.

Brian
 

Mouse

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Theres only one way to go IMO.

250W DE HQI MH's, 10,000k Aqualine Bulbs. Supplimented with Actinic (not 50/50) VHO's. I recomend VHO's over PC's because they give more Bioluminecent Glow than the PC bulbs. And im a Raver at heart, so its gota glow man. 8)
 

KMTaquarium

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i dont think there are structural problem with weight capacity for wrought oron stands- it should be able to support 2500 lbs easily
 

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