Quick Durso/Stockman question

[M.E.Milz]

I recall that the original design for the Durso standpipe stated that the diameter of the standpipe must be larger than the diameter of the bulkhead fitting to work properly.

However, I noticed that the Stockman modification does not require an increase in diameter of the standpipe. Is this correct? In other words, if I have 1.5" drain bulkheads in the bottom of the overflow, can I use a 1.5" standpipe for the Stockman set-up? Or do I need to increase the standpipe to 2"?

 

[Anonymous]

My Stockman is the same size as the plumbing it drains into.

I did have problems when I first installed it. It would kind of "flush" periodically. I emailed Stockman about it (who was very, very nice and promptly replied, btw) and he said no one had ever said anything to him about that before and had no explanation. It has stopped and I have no idea why it used to do it or why it doesn't anymore. The standpipe did make a huge difference in the noise.

 

[SPC]

Mike, I asked Richard Durso this question when I was plumbing my 180. He said anything 1.5" and over is fine to have it all one size.
Steve

 

[MiNdErAsR]

I did have problems when I first installed it. It would kind of "flush" periodically.

I use a "Durso", but the occasional flushing is indicative of insufficient airflow. Perhaps the hole(s) in your "Stockman" need to be increased?

 

[M.E.Milz]

Thanks to all for the info

 

[reefland]

FYI - only 1 inch bulkheads seem to need the pipe to be a little larger than the bulkhead size. 1.5 inch and up don't seem to need this.

1 inch bulkheads on smaller tanks might not have problems either since small tanks have pretty low flow requirements.

 

[Bill2]

I made my own stand pipe using:

2" to 5" bushing

5" cap

You can see the parts at

http://homepage.mac.com/reefsbill/PhotoAlbum9.html

 

[rikacarl]

bill,

I had trouble understanding the pipe while looking at the pictures. Is it just a straight pipe with large dia cap? So the water flows under the cap and then up and over the pipe? Sounds like a great idea because it takes up less space than two big 90* elbows.

can you explain it a little bit more? Is it nice and quiet?

-carl

 

[Bill2]

I'm sure you know this but a bushing enables you to connect a smaller pipe to a larger one.

If you looked at the pictures I'm sure you noticed I used an ABS bushing becuase the wall that seperates the "inner" and "outer" walls is fairly thin and i could easily drill the holes.

The water flows under the bushing, through the holes, and down the pipe.

It's virtually silent except when some of the holes get clogged with caulerpa and then you get the ole sucking sound.[/i]

 

[rikacarl]

I get it now, I had to go back and take a 2nd look. I think I will try that on my new tank I am setting up this month. It looks great, simple and not too big. I like it.

8) thanks Bill2

 

[Bill2]

NP one other addition make sure you drill a couple holes in the cap for some surface skimming. 1 decent size holes are all it takes... I drilled mine at the edge and I lowered the overflow to where the waterline is just above the edge.

Got it?

If you got anymore questions i'm in the chat room most of the time.

 

[ronhaake]

Bill-
I feel a bit dense here as well in understanding your design. Are both cap and bushing facing the same direction, or is the bushing installed with the bigger opening facing up (inverted inside the larger cap)? You also mention that you have the water level just above the edge of the cap, but in your photos it looks like it is below. Since that is where the air must enter, it seems to me that the water level must be below the top of the cap. Yes? I assume that the water level is dictated by the height of the top of the riser tube.
I'm looking to redesign my overflow to raise the water height, so that I have less drainage into my sump when I shut off my return pump. I'm really not happy with the noise level of the Durso design on my tank, so this sounds interesting. Thanks.