BEST AUTO TOPOFF SYSTEMS?????????

[Markstr]

What about a "Nurce Unit"????
Heard that they are very simple & efficent.........

 

[reefing in LA]

Recently purchased a Litermeter. Best money I've ever spent on my tank. Very happy with it so far.

 

[golfish]

Recently purchased a Litermeter. Best money I've ever spent on my tank. Very happy with it so far.

I also use a Liter Meter... IMO, any peristaltic pump used with two float switch'a, One to turn it on at low level and turn it off when is back up to the set level. The second should be use as a fail safe, just in case. I really like the Liter Meter.

 

[Anonymous]

I've had a Nurce running a few weeks now, and aside from some frustration early on getting the cap to seal properly, I am very happy with it. It is a good, low-tech approach.

 

[esmithiii]

Here is some good info on top off solutions. I copied it from a previous reply I made to a post about top off ideas. You can read the whole thread here:

Top Off scenarios

• Drip type- a fixed drip from a resevoir that is above the tank (or the sump) is used to replace water loss. You estimate the rate of evaporation and set the drip rate accordingly. This type is simple, cheap but harder to set up initially. There are some problems with the drip line clogging especially if you plan on dosing kalkwasser with the top off water.
• Dosing pump- This is similar to the drip type in that you must estimate the evaporation loss and the program a dosing pump (you can get these for anywhere from $60-200) to "dose" freshwater in the same rate as the evaporation loss. These are often less troublesome than the drip method especially if you are dosing kalkwasser, but is more costly. The other benefit is that since it is a pump, you can put the resevoir anywhere, even under the tank out of site.
• Vacuum type level sensor- A closed container is placed higher than the tank (or sump) and a bit of tubing is run from the container to the tank (or sump) and the open end of the tubing is placed at the desired water level. When the water level drops due to evaporation, air is sucked into the container which displaces the water which then flows into the tank to raise the water level. These can be problematic, and are not the most maintenance free.
• Float switch connected to a resevoir- in this scenario a flow switch senses when the water level has dropped and kicks on a pump in a resevoir of fresh water which pumps water to raise the level. This is what I use. It is not the most expensive, but failsafe, and a good compromise between being maintenance free, safe and cost effective. If my float switch sticks, only a limited volume of fresh water will be pumped in (limited by the resevoir) and I simply have to keep the resevoir full.
• Float valve connected to a resevoir- possibly the simplest solution. A float valve like the one in your toilet allows water to flow gravity-fed from another resevoir which is higher than your tank (or sump). Since the float valve is often large and bulky, most people put it in a sump under the tank where it is not visible.
• Float-switch connected to RO unit.- This is one of the most maintenance-free options. In this case a float switch actuates a solenoid or a special valve on your RO unit that causes it to kick on when the water level in your tank drops. Since it is connected to your RO unit, you do not have to manually add water to any container or resevoir as is required by the previous options. This option is somewhat costly, and has the added problem that if the float switch sticks then the RO unit will run continuously until you notice and shut it off. What that means is that it can overflow your tank and also that the salinity will continue to drop until you cut the water off. If you don't catch it in time you can kill everything in your tank.
• Float switch connected to RO unit plumbed through metering device (e.g. LiterMeter) This is the best solution but also the most costly. In this case a float switch actuates a solenoid or a special valve on your RO unit that causes it to kick on when the water level in your tank drops. There is a metering device which only allows a set amount of water to flow in a given day limiting the overflow risk and the salinity risk of the previous option.

 

[geofloors]

I use a grainger float switch connected to as small mini jet pump and a 5.5 gallon top off tank. I think the whole set-up cost about $30.


George

 

[golfish]

I used what George is using for a while. Its a disaster waiting to happen. Even if the pump only pumps 10 gal an hour its going to happen. I know, I happened to me twice. This is why I use the Liter meter. You can set it to pump just a little more then the amount you evap everyday. Then if my two float switches fail it will take a week for my sump to flood.

Mark

 

[geofloors]

I agree, I have thought about that every now and again but I think this is less dangerous than the floatswitch hooked to an RO unit. I think that's a disaster waiting happen.

What is a litre meter? I'll do some research now.


George

 

[esmithiii]

used what George is using for a while. Its a disaster waiting to happen. Even if the pump only pumps 10 gal an hour its going to happen. I know, I happened to me twice. This is why I use the Liter meter. You can set it to pump just a little more then the amount you evap everyday. Then if my two float switches fail it will take a week for my sump to flood.

I don't think so. I use the same method, but my sump is big enough to accomodate the extra water even if the float sticks. My setup is fool-proof.

Ernie

 

[Anonymous]

I am with you Ernie. I am using the same setup as you, a float switch hooked up to a air pump, which pumps air into a resivoir which is then forced out to the sump, but not before going through my DIY Nielsen reactor (less worry about top-off and calcium replacement). As long you accomodate for the worst, the complete contents of the resivoir emptying which I had happen only once in 3 years due to a snail "cleaning" the float, the worst that can happen is that your salinity drops ever so slightly. IMHO, if done with these considerations, it is practically fool proof, makes for even less maintenace, creates stability, and provides all of these are very nominal cost (less tan $100 for the top off system and Nielsen reactor in my case).

 

[geofloors]

I use a 5.5 gallon tank for daily top off but I have q 20g tub for more than 1 day's top off, if needed. The system is over 200g so It can easily handle 15 gallons before it overflows but 5.5g is no problem and with minimal sailinity fluctuation. When I use the 20g tub, I always wonder "what if" but with no problem so far, I'll take a calculated risk.


George

 

[wasabi]

i have the kent float switch hooked up to my ro/di with a solenoid to shut off ro/di, the float sits in a 70 gallon rubbermaid. from there i have a vario dosing pump dosing my tank. i am very happy with this system and it is almost foolproof i'd much rther have fresh ro/di water spilling on my floor, than have it flooding my tank killing my creatures.

 

[golfish]

Ernie,
Your sump might be big enough but can your tank handle the drastic SG change? You might not think in can happen but trust me, it will some day. My top-off drum is 35 gal, there was not enough room in my sump for that. Concisder this a friendly warning...been there done that

My tank is setup to auto top off for as long as I like. I don't have to touch a thing, nor do I have to worry about 1 or even 2 float switches failing because I know there will not be a flood nor will I have a fast change in SG if both switches fail. I even have auto top-off for my top-off drum


You can feel safe by using a smaller top-off tank but that's just not for me. With my setup all I have to do it change the filters in the RO\DI system. I can leave my tank alone for a week and not worry about a thing, even longer with an auto feeder.

Mark

 

[danmhippo]

To prevent mishaps, I opt for a smaller RODI reservoir. My nielson reactor draw water from a 5G jug, and is also hooked up to a litemeter. What could possibly go wrong with this setup? If the liquid leveler failed, and Litemeter malfunctioned, the most that could pump into my sump is a mere 5G most. 5G FW into a 150G system, My fish probably won't even feel a thing! I always keeps 4-5 water change jugs filled with RODI, and all I do once a week is taking incoming water line from one almost empty jug to another.

I liked the Liquid Leveler from SpectraPure. It's what it named, liquid leveler and worked on air pressure principle to control the litemeter. Unlike most floatswitch, it has no mechanical parts and are snail proof. Plus, it's cheaper then most float switch.

 

[cmc1]

Have a NURCE and love it. I worry about power outage if I'm away and this way seems fool proof, no electricity involved.

 

[esmithiii]

Ernie,
Your sump might be big enough but can your tank handle the drastic SG change? You might not think in can happen but trust me, it will some day. My top-off drum is 35 gal, there was not enough room in my sump for that. Concisder this a friendly warning...been there done that

Total tank + Sump volume = 200G
Current Salinity = 1.0260
Resevoir Volume = 12G

Salinity if entire volume is dumped at once:
[(200 * 1.0260) + (12 * 1.000)] / 212 = 1.0245

Keep in mind that my resevoir is rarely 100% full. Could my animals survive? Almost assuredly. I would like to rig a more automated system (I fill the resevoir manually right now) but cash is tight at the moment.

Ernie

Ernie

 

[golfish]

Ernie,
Have you seen one of these

Its a battery operated solinoid that turns the water off and on at the faucet up to 4 times a day from 1-360 minutes. I have it setup to fill my 35 gal RO\DI holding tank. This would also work great for those people ( me ) who turn on their RO unit and forget about it. Its so easy to use.

 

[Diatomic Bomb]

Golfish, where did you get that solenoid device? Is it expensive?

 

[golfish]

DB,
I got it from a guy who works for Home Depot. I don't think they carry this exact model anymore but I'm sure you'll be able to find someting close. I think its around 30-40 dollars ( I traded frags for it) Its the best thing since sliced bread You can remove the programming unit, program it and then just slid it back in. If you look close you can see where is slides out. I use it to top off my top off drum, the person I go it from uses it to top-off his tank. That's a little too risky for me

 

[Anonymous]

These posts on top-off systems always end up with everyone talking about what system has the least risk of flooding. Nobody knows and nobody even asks if anybody has had failures or flooding. If so, what was the setup?
I think the most simple solution is the best. (Float valve in sump), and I have never talked to anyone who has had one fail. Have you?