My 100gRR plumbing schematic (sump,fuge,kalk,topoff)GIF pict

[L and L]

Hey reefers and soon to be reefers,

Here's a picture that I made (with the help of Inland Reef's
first picture. I took their simple design and greatly modified it).

I just updated it to reflect the Kalkwasswer and top-off dripping
and the refugium in hopes that someone new to the hobby can
use this to help them design their system. I'm not claiming it to
be the best system... it's just my system

There are a few notes I'd like to add:

1. I have the Check Valve and Siphon breaks at my 3/4"
returns. Relying on just Check Valves during a power outtage
is risky and don't recommend it.

2. My top-off and kalkwasser driping is manual. I evaporate
2.2 gallons (One 7" fan blowing on 100g surface 24/7) per day
and this manual method is fine for me.
I can take 3 day vacations without a problem. But, I am
looking into getting automated with the Litermeter, Reef Filler or
SpectraPure LLC for my RO/DI top-off and Kalkwasser.
I would like to take a longer vacation.

3. The 20g refugium does have a 20w NO light. But, the light
coming from the main tank through the open back canopy really
gives the refugium way more light than that 20w NO light.

4. The top-off and kalkwasser uses the Kent Aqua Dose Hose Kit (IV style dripper).

And here is the refugium schematic too and notes:
1. The top "T" pipe is in case the strainer gets clogged. It should go
to the opening and drain through that pipe. I think orginally I
was going to have it without the strainer and was thinking of
a astraea snail clogging the opening..... but then I added the 3/4"
strainer and just put it in the 3/4" slip pipe. NOT screwed into it.
Gravity and the flow holds it in place.

2. The water exits via gravity through the 3/4" bulkhead -> 90
degree (Slip/thread) -> 8" flexible lock-line tubing down to the
water surface.

3. I was 50/50 on where I wanted my input water to come from to
the refugium. Main tank or Overflow. I decided on the Overflow
location because it allows me to hide the powerhead that feeds
the fuge and it gives the fuge the skimmed water (definitely
more waste water than the main tank). Another cool thing having
it in the overflow.... when there is a power outtage... and the
power returns... the powerhead doesn't lose its prime and keeps
on working (I had thought about putting a pump in the fuge
and "pulling" water up to it. A power outtage would have killed
this idea).

Other info about this design is on our webpage.

And thanks to Vixyswillie for reminding me that there are other "new to the hobby" people and cool reef boards besides Reef Central. hehe

HTH,

L and L
Vicksburg, Mississippi
http://bellsouthpwp.net/l/o/loguell/Layne_and_Liem.html

 

[Vixyswillie]

Tanks! (har-har-har)

OK... OK... it was lame.

 

[Anonymous]

The power head in the overflow that feeds the refugium may be a problem. I originally had mine set up like that, but wound up tee-ing the refugium feed of the main pump. I can't remember exactly what the problem was, I just know that I changed it.

BTW, nice looking drawing. :wink:

Can you increase yer halides to 250w's?

Louey

 

[Vixyswillie]

I originally had mine set up like that, but wound up tee-ing the refugium feed of the main pump. I can't remember exactly what the problem was, I just know that I changed it.

That's exactly what I'm doing with mine, Louey. I'm planning twin refugiums (instead of 1 refugium and 1 RODI reservoir) and will T off a second (smaller) return pump. That line will terminate in a Sea Swirl in the back center of my 125.

 

[L and L]

The power head in the overflow that feeds the
refugium may be a problem. I originally had mine set up like that,
but wound up tee-ing the refugium feed of the main pump. I
can't remember exactly what the problem was, I just know that
I changed it.

BTW, nice looking drawing. :wink:

Can you increase yer halides to 250w's?

Louey

Thanks.

I've been running this setup for 9 months without any problems.
That's not a lifetime.... but, it is 6,964 hours (hehe).
Interesting that you changed it though. The only problem I see is
having the PH fail. But, that's a concern for all pumps. I am interested
why you changed it.

Can you increase yer halides to 250w's?

uh... I'm sorry, I'm not following you on this one. Are you asking
"Can I use my Hamilton Tech MH ballast for 250s ...even though
I'm using 175s right now?"

 

[beerbaron]

Well the powerhead in the overflow will be the problem if the following happens. the main return pump fails and the powerhead doesnt, the water in the tank will fall(either to the very top of the overflow, or to the point at which it breaks the siphon on the return pump. if this amount of water is greater than the volume that is in the overflow, the small powerhead will slowly pump the water out of the overflow and the water in the overflow will not complete the overflow cycle till the powerhead dries out. try turning just your main return pump off and you will see what i mean. other than this its a great diagram.
HTH
BB

 

[Anonymous]

Quote:
Can you increase yer halides to 250w's?


uh... I'm sorry, I'm not following you on this one. Are you asking
"Can I use my Hamilton Tech MH ballast for 250s ...even though
I'm using 175s right now?"

I'm just asking if you can go to a 250 watt setup instead of 175? If you have already purchased the 175, then nevermind.

Beerbaron's comment fairly well describes the problem with the PH in the overflow.

Louey

 

[L and L]

Louey, I got ya now. I should have said in the first post that I've
been running this setup for 9 months.

But, I do agree with you. If I had it to do over again, I would have
gotten 250s instead of these 175s. When I decided to go Reef
... instead of a FOwLRLS... a LFS was selling their 2 month old
Hamilton tech 175 MH w/ german 10kk bulbs (...socket, spider
shield....etc) for $250 (they were down sizing their shop). So, I
bought them and made a common beginner mistakes. Buying before
you research.

These 175s work fine for me now....but, I know in the near future
I will be upgrading to a larger tank and the 250s would have come
in handy.


ah.. right Beerbaron (and Louey). Thanks, I am aware of that.
Interesting... I hadn't thought about the fuge if the sump pump
goes out... I think I am going to stick a powerhead in the fuge.
If the sump pump does go out, there will be no circulation
(gas exchange) in the fuge. I don't know if you thought about
that Vixyswillie... but, I would put a powerhead in your fuge too.

Thanks for the comments and welcome more. The only reason
for this post was to help the Beginner reefer get a jump start on
their design and build a successful reef tank.

 

[mountainbiker619]

Why not spend another $100 and upgrade from the Euro-reef CS6-2 to the CS8-2

 

[Vixyswillie]

Well the powerhead in the overflow will be the problem if the following happens...<snip>

Sorry to appear dense, but I'm not following this. :? Are we talking about the possibility of a flood or the possibility of the PH running dry? If it's the latter, I get it - if it's the former, can somebody please say the same thing in different words?

If the sump pump does go out, there will be no circulation (gas exchange) in the fuge. I don't know if you thought about
that Vixyswillie... but, I would put a powerhead in your fuge too.

Hmm... makes me uncomfortable. The profusion of organic matter in a fuge is an open invitation for a clogged PH, IMHO. Too risky. I'd rather deal with the lack of fuge circulation if my second return pump fails.

 

[beerbaron]

hey dont worry about it, this is an important topic, you should have a good understanding of it.

here is the simple answer. if you move the powerhead into the main tank, there will be no problems. and you wont need a second one for circulation.

slightly more complicated. as long as you have the water returning into the same container it is pumped from, your usually good to go. however, there wouldnt be much point in returning it into the overflow, because then all those good little critters will go down to the sump and things get nasty down there :wink:.

now for a full explination of this, try this. turn off your main pump(and the powerhead in question). notice two things. 1. how long it takes for the water to stop splashing back to the sump. and 2. how much the water has dropped in the main tank. and 3. how much the water level dropped in the overflow. then turn on the pump again, and notice how much of the water which accumulates in the sump while the pump is off and how all of that is used to fill the main tank back to its normal level.
now, if the main pump was off, that water is going to be at a lower level in the tank, so if the powerhead continues to pump, it must replace the difference between that lower level and the level at which the water can flow over the overflow(which to complicate things more will be at a lower level than when the tank is on).

let me know if you dont follow. id be happy to re explain. the best thing to do with every setup, is to turn one thing off at a time, and turn things off together(in different combinations) to make sure you cover every possibility.

HTH
BB

 

[Bill2]

I would have used a stronger pump for the recirc. IMO use your strongest pump on your recirc. and try to minimize head pressure on it. This way you won't be relying on your return pump to provide water circulation just a means to get water from your sump to your tank.

 

[Vixyswillie]

hey dont worry about it, this is an important topic, you should have a good understanding of it.

Got it! Thanks much for the second go-around. :wink:

 

[Vixyswillie]

OK - yet another question about the above drawing. :wink:

I'm wondering about the level at which the drain hoses terminate when they return to the sump. They could...

1. ...terminate at a level higher than the maximum water level the sump reaches when the power fails (IOW, always above the water's surface)... OR...

2. ...terminate at a level lower than the maximum water level the sump reaches when the power fails, but higher than the operating water level of the sump... OR...

3. ...terminate at a level lower than both the maximum and operating water levels (IOW, always beneath the water's surface).

Is one preferred over another? Mine has always been scenario #1, but that's because of the sump I'm stuck with at present (a TidePool, with biowheel and media removed). In designing a new sump, however, I'm free to do whatever is best. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks!

 

[Vixyswillie]

Anyone?

 

[L and L]

Great info Beerbaron. Thanks. I'm going to take another look at
my design and see if I can cover all the bases.

mountainbiker619 said Why not spend another $100
and upgrade from the Euro-reef CS6-2 to the CS8-2

hehe, there will always be an upgrade for x dollars. :wink: I went
with Euro-Reef (and fellow reefers) recommendations. So far it
has exceded my expectations and then some. I empty the Collection
cup an average of 8 days. This skimmer rocks.

Where do you see the Euro-Reef CS8-2 for $450? Marine Depot
has it listed for $528....but, that is just the listed price. Group buy?

Bill2 said I would have used a stronger pump for
the recirc. IMO use your strongest pump on your recirc.
and try to minimize head pressure on it. This way you won't be
relying on your return pump to provide water circulation just a
means to get water from your sump to your tank.

When I posted, I was just thinking of the plumbing to help out the
Beginner reefer. But, you're right, I guess I need to give my thoughts
on the pumps since they are visible.

When desiging this system, I tried to design it to be whisper quiet. I didn't
have a closet, basement or fish room behind the tank to hide my
equipment. The whole system was going to be in my TV / living room.
The Quiet One (724gph @4') and Velocity T4 (1080gph @4') seemed to
fit the description. They are known to add heat into the system..but, I
chose them instead of this.... and really don't add that much heat to my
system (summer 80^F morning, 82/83^F end of photoperoid).

The only reason I didn't buy both Velocity T-series pumps... was to
experience the Quiet One pump. I have been pleased...but, recently I
am little bit more worried about failure in the future by this pump.
I've seen several "4 years, no problem with Quiet One"...but, it only
took one "see my pics of Quiet one failure" hehe. I'll probably buy a
T3 to replace this and have the Quiet One as a backup.

I do agree with you though. I went with 5x turnovers in my sump.
With this low flow, I minimized my micro bubbles and didn't have
to provide any over/under baffles (just over). And then I went with
the biggest pump that met my quiet requirement.... and this was
the T4 (imo).

Vixyswillie, my scenario is the way it's drawn (#3). Being quiet
is the reason I put it under the water. Since everybodys plumbing
is different, the only suggestion I have is make it #3... test it out.
Cut it to #2 ...test it out. and ditto #1. Or stop when you're comfortable.

 

[Vixyswillie]

Vixyswillie, my scenario is the way it's drawn (#3). Being quiet
is the reason I put it under the water. Since everybodys plumbing
is different, the only suggestion I have is make it #3... test it out.
Cut it to #2 ...test it out. and ditto #1. Or stop when you're comfortable.

Thanks - good idea. I've seen several plumbed this way - figured they had to be the quietest solution for sure. Just wasn't sure about any potential problems with the tank draining properly during a power failure. I also asked the members of my reef club - and the unanimous vote was for #3, as well. Good enough for me! :wink:

Thanks again...