damn float switches!!!!

[Anonymous]

The only problem with a kent float, if the water level drops, it will top off to match demand, even if that means flooding the tank with kalk or RO

 

[golfish]

been there, done that... I had my float switch fail twice in a week because of an unknown snail I tossed in the sump. It took the second time before I saw the little bastard. Like the others have suggested get a dosing pump. I now use a Liter meter.

BTW, I think it was a guy here who said he uses a powerhead but has a needle valve on the output end of the line running to the sump\or where ever your top off water feeds. With the needle valve you can control the flow now matter how fast the pump pumps.

 

[Crockett]

Ten dollar garden hose timer that automactically turns on and off your ro/di. Have it drip straight into the sump if you don't want a float. How can you flood? If the batteries in the timer fail, the ro/di doesn't come on. My batteries last at least 8 months, so I always change at 6 months. Took about two days to determine the exact time needed to run the ro/di. I like the idea of the float because I hook the ro/di to a fresh water storage container as well. If thats the only thing that you are "dosing", there is no need for a $250+ dosing pump.
If you want to dose kalk or other, go for the dosing pump by all means. There is no safer or easier way.

 

[lawndoctor]

If the water level drops so much, so suddenly, and for long enough that a mechanical float valve releases enough RO/DI to flood the tank, then there are much bigger problems than the topoff system to worry about.