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jonboy

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I just started using this program to control my lights and ball valve
actuator. It is great.

What I was wondering...who is using this program and what settings are you using?

Thanks for any suggestions,
jonboy
 

npaden

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I've been using it to control my lighting only for probably 6 months or more. I think I was the first registered user! ;)

I had heard Bill was adding a wavemaker component to it but haven't checked that part of it out yet. It is doing an awesome job running my lights though! I originally got it as emoonlight and all it did was control a moonlight with rise/set and phase. Bill has since added the lighting control to it (controls up to 6 lights seperately) and now the wavemaking.

If anyone is interested this is a pretty cool setup and even has several reefs programed into it that you can mimic the sunrise/set and moonrise/set of. Or you can set it to your lat/long and mimic the rise/set of your own as well as offsetting for your preferred viewing time.

Oh well, it sounds like I'm advertising for Bill, but this is an awesome program and he only charges like $15 for the lightmaster - not sure if he charges more for the wavemaker module or not.

Here is a link to Bill's site: http://www.mv.com/users/besposito/lightmaster1.html

FWIW, Nathan
 

Bill-e

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And the good news is that X10 has the FireCracker on sale till Julyt 8 at 19.99. So after the $15 coupon you can get from my page, and the 5.95 shipping it about 11 bucks.
 
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Anonymous

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Ok, I' interested in the program. I have 2-110W VHO's (actinic) on a single icecap 660 ballast. I have 2-175W MH (ushio 10 K) that are on individual ballast.

What all would I need to buy (or change) to effective mimic natural lighting?

Right now the VHO's go on (or off) a half our before/after the halides.

Thanks!

Louey
 

liquid

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Here's probably a pretty dumb question, but I'm an X-10 noob. Do you need to have a computer on 24/7 to use this program Bill (to run the x-10 firecracker, etc)?

Thanks,

Shane
 

Bill-e

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If you get the FireCracker kit, it will come with one lamp module which cannot be used with any of your current lights but which is great for use with a moon lamp. So if you want to simulate dawn/dusk and have the VHO's turn on before the MH's you will need at least 2 Appliance modules as well, and 3 if you want to use one for each MH light.

So a firecracker kit plus either 2 or 3 appliance modules.
 
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Anonymous

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Does this stuff all have to be hardwired together? My computor is on the other side of the house. What kind of wiring would I need to run in between tank and computer?
 

Marcosreef

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It's wireless. I think it's around 40 or so feet, max distance.

I picked up the firecracker kit ($5 with voucher) with 2 RCA lamp modules($7 each) and 2 RCA Appliance modules ($8 each) and 2 Credit Cards Remotes (Buy one for $20 get one for $1) and free shipping for $55 total cost. Thanks Bill.

Regards, Marco
 

SPC

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Louey, I think it uses your existing house wiring.

Hi Bill, I thought about going with this FireCracker kit a while back but then read on one of the boards some complaints about interference of some kind effecting the signal. Have you seen this as a problem?
Steve
 

Bill-e

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Louey":yhvfzodi said:
Does this stuff all have to be hardwired together? My computor is on the other side of the house. What kind of wiring would I need to run in between tank and computer?

No, you dont need to run anything. It's a wireless connection from your computers serial port to the tranciever module, which plugs into the wall. Your switching modules have the lights and all plugged into them. You can be at different ends of the house as long as the tranciever module circuit and switching module circuits are on the same phase of the household electric.
 

Bill-e

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SPC":3uljkpzs said:
Hi Bill, I thought about going with this FireCracker kit a while back but then read on one of the boards some complaints about interference of some kind effecting the signal. Have you seen this as a problem?
Steve

Yes, you can have interference. Some PC ballasts interfere. The solution in that case is a plug in filter. You can also sometimes get noise on the circuit which may interfere with the X10 signal. eLightMaster is written so that whenever it sends out a command, it repeats it 3 times. Then every 5 minutes, it sends out the commands again. So if there was a glitch, worst case the module would get the command again in 5 minutes. This is not a common occurance. Normally if it works it works, if it doesnt it doesnt. I've been using X10 for 3 years on my tank, I love it.
 
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Anonymous

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Ahh! So it uses Power Line Carrier signals, uhh! Cool.

So there is no distance limit? Right!

Gee, and I though I was done tricking out my tank! :roll:

Louey
 
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Anonymous

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Dough! I purposely ran two circuit to feed my tank. I'm sure that they are on seperate phases.

Hmm! I gotta think about this now!
 

Marcosreef

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Louey,

You can easily change phases by moving the circuit breaker in your panel so that both circuits are on the same phase.

Marco
 

Bill-e

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Louey,

two separte circuits doesnt necessarily mean different phases. Even if it did, it's easy to move them in the box.

The tranciever and the modules need to be on the same phase (although there is a phase coupler but it's $$) The PC can be quite a bit away from the tranciever and it doesnt matter where it's plugged into.
 
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Anonymous

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I'm pretty sure I ran a 3 wire circuit for the tank. Two hots and a neutral. The hots need to be on seprate circuits in order for the neutral to function properly.

But you know what, I think I can plug my lights and power heads into one of the circuits, and leave the other for the skimmer and return pumps etc.

New question for Bill: When the power fails, my computor won't restart automatically. So when power returns what would the devices do, stay off, or return to there previous state? Or does everthing stay off until the computor re-boots?
 

Bill-e

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Louey":1cqfuguo said:
I'm pretty sure I ran a 3 wire circuit for the tank. Two hots and a neutral. The hots need to be on seprate circuits in order for the neutral to function properly.

Separate circuits yes, not separate phases unless you are going to use 230v.
New question for Bill: When the power fails, my computor won't restart automatically. So when power returns what would the devices do, stay off, or return to there previous state? Or does everthing stay off until the computor re-boots?

The appliance modules have mechanical switches. They will stay in whatever state they were in when power was interrupted.

When the computer reboots, and eLightMaster is in your startup dir, then it will determine what time it currently is and set all your timers to where they are supposed to be.
 
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Anonymous

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The appliance modules have mechanical switches. They will stay in whatever state they were in when power was interrupted.

When the computer reboots, and eLightMaster is in your startup dir, then it will determine what time it currently is and set all your timers to where they are supposed to be.

Ahh. I guess this is the best answer I could hope for. If I buy a ups for my computor, that should take care of most circumstances. Biggest fear: Long power outage when I'm on vacation. UPS dies. Power comes back on and the lights were previously "on". Computer won't restart until someone turns it on. Lights stay on forever and everthing gets fried. :(

Ok, so I try to train my tank-sitter to always make sure the computer is on. Problem solved...so long as the tank-sitter never screws up! :roll:

Louey
 

Bill-e

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Why wont your computer restart? Is it an older ATX power supply type where you had to go into the bios and enable it to turn on when power comes back? I dont remember exactly the parameter but basically I think you disable the "soft" power switch.
 

Marcosreef

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Bill,
I plan on using emoonlight when my x10 kit comes in. I found the installation of the four components needed confusing. I installed the Java 2, but the rest, well... I'm lost. Should I contact you direct or can you PM me some easy idiot-proof instructions?

Thanks, Marco
 

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